snoboy

In the last example cited on cj's link, the force on the anchor (ceiling) would be 125 lbs so yes, it would be higher, but it is a sum, not a multilple. Maybe the easiest way to explain this is that each rope that goes to the load (to a moving point) shares an equal portion of the load. In a z-drag, there are three ropes sharing the load - one goes to the rescuer's hand, the other two go to the ratchet/pulley on the anchor. The total load is divided equally between those three, so the anchor holds only 2/3 of the load while the rescuer is hauling. When the rescuer releases his pull, the load is fully on the ratchet, and the anchor supports 100% of the climber's weight. Of course these loads are theoretical, and will be increased by friction. Note in the first example on cj's link, that the anchor is actually taking 200lbs! That would be the classic redirected belay setup on a multipitch. In the second one it is taking 150... In each case the pulley to the right does nothing except change the direction of pull, and increase the load on the anchor...

Hell, if Danny boy can get to the top in 2-1/2, then you sorry sacks of s%^& should be able to get to Muir in less than 4. I heard they are doing a major refit of the Muir Hut this summer.

^Bump^ and Grind...

Blatant plug for carolyn who said:

Nahh, I suck, grover obviously 0wnz me.

The supersecret moderator's view of who's online says it's a bunch of Yahoo 'bots...

Me too, I'm voting Will_Strickland in 2004

I'm voting for Will.

Just be sure to bring up to a number 3 Cramalot for the first pitch of Calculus proper (ie not the "bushy" approach pitches.) Other than that you should be golden.

-burn at less than full speed -buy decent blanks, no 100 for $10 jobbies -use the test function of the burning software -don't try and do other stuff at the same time on your computer if it is slow -copy the original to your hard drive first

Bling bling!! I found a dime on the way down from Muir the other day... PM the year, and I'll return it to you.

Sheesh don't you listen??? She said to email or PM her with questions...

It is in the Alpine Select, as well as the old (92?) Squamish guide.

There's a rescue sled at Muir anyways, no need to try and hide one in your pack.

heh I was hoping for a big display on Rainier on Friday night, but no such luck...

Climb: Rainier-Dissapointment Cleaver Date of Climb: 7/23/2004 Trip Report: How Rainier did me in 40 hours Squam to Squam_ Our planned Kautz Glacier trip quickly turned into a single push on the DC after getting a good look at conditions from paradise, and hearing reports of multiple people getting hit by rockfall on the approach, and a very active icefall... Since we couldn't get a permit for the DC at that point in the day, we decided to try it in a single push. Sum total is, that the Rainier newbie got his asskicked, and it was well deserved. Made it to Cathedral Gap way behind schedule, and watched the sky lightening, as I slowly got more and more hypothermic, on the hottest day of the year. WTF??? :crosseyes: Tried to get some sleep at Muir, and was too cold, so I left Pandora there sawing logs, and hiked down into the blessed sunshine. Conditions were better than I expected, given that it wasn't supposed to freeze up high. I'll be back, maybe even this year, if only to get my ice screws back from the posthole machine. Gear Notes: had stuff, shoulda had a down jacket despite very warm temps. Approach Notes: Not much parking at Paradise after 12 on a Friday... Snow from Pebble Creek up. [edit] Hmmm, I just got a PM from someone saying "Good job" I guess I didn't make it that clear that Cathedral Gap was as high as I got, that leaves a lot of mountain still left to go for next time... [/edit]

I don't know what you need, but we had major headaches here trying to run a VPN system on a wired Linksys router. Ended up having to buy a D-Link DI-624 router (wireless), and everything works smoothly now.

I have heard the same thing about the B-C descent as dberdinka mentions, that 60m is GOOD.

Check out this TR

Hmmm... it is hard to answer your questions as they are very general, but I will try. If you are comfortable with the tennies and crampons, then you will probably be OK with that, I have seen that done there. However you are probably going to want your hikers for the way in anyways, so... Gear gets stashed for some routes (Kain Route, W ridge Pidgeon) and carried over for others (NE Ridge of Bugaboo, Beckey-Chouinard almost anything on Snowpatch), it really depends on what route you are talking about. 60m ropes... I would guess that you will be able to get away with a 50m and a tag line for raps, but you know the trade off of doing longer pitches, etc. Some of the harder, new routes require 60's or even 70's(?), I think. Read the guidebook. The new one by mark Piche from Elaho Publishing is the better of the two.

Alpine Club of Canada clubhouse...

This link says yes, there is water...

My girl found that the ArcTeryx alpine model (Verro??) was indeed the best fitting... not a girly harness, but it has adjustable leg loops, and it seems to have a fairly long rise. Also has excellent finishing, so no sharp bits that dig in or anything. The real trick is to get the harness on in the store, and hang in it for a while. Any good shop will have somewhere set up to hang from. If they don't, well you probably don't wanna buy there anyways. Otherwise... what Dru says.

55 minutes, not bad, once again, OR is in the lead... WA took 1:07 in my thread...