Buckaroo

"I've got 4 pieces, I know that's not quite enough" "If I really start to sketch I've got this daisy that I can clip off" LOLZ!!!

Yeah, I'm starting to doubt Croft climbed Colchuck or Dragontail, unless he did the walkups. From Argonaut he says he went to the Enchantment Lakes which is on the other side of Colchuck and Dragontail. If that's the case then Telemarker's linkup of Backbone, Prussik, SCW is more technical terrain.

I think I talked to you guys as you were hiking out and we were hiking in. I ended up descending the icefield from the col to Aasgard with alum cramps and a small axe. It was a 15 ft 5.5 step at the top and about 100 yds of 30 deg crunchy ice. Also talked to a guy that went around Witches Tower, but that looked like it was a further distance. You should do a TR, it sounds like you guys got the full meal deal. there's beta on this descent on SummitPost

AND they took their accident journal offline, whut up whit dat?

On to Wolf's Head. The classic East Ridge... Airy hand traverse around the towers is the name of the game. these are my faves, awesome shots. It's nice to see stuff like this in the lower 48 So there were other parties there while you were there? Notice the other climber in the background of one of the shots. so the dog was just tied up in the middle of no where? Well he probably would rather be waiting 2 hrs there than waiting a week back at home

respectfully disagree. Hopefully you're not having as many near death accidents as in the ANAM. So learning from others mistakes is what it's about.

you're probably correct, they just come up in a search for dragontail

You are basically doing a ridge traverse until Stumpy Hill/Mt Parkes. At the #2 crux you have 2 choices either climb the ridge up to the summit of Crossover peak that cliffs out and backtrack back down just a bit to a gully that drops down to the right, one double rope rap or 2 single. OR about a pitch before the summit look down right for a dirt/heather slope that skirts down and right of the ridge and climbs a little back up to the end of the raps. 45 deg hard pack heather and dirt, exposed with a cliff at the bottom. Sort of sketch, I used my cleaning tool to self belay. From the end of the raps is the start of a trail that continues on the left of the ridge and leads to the ledge below Stumpy Hill/Mt Parkes headwall. After you get below Stumpy Hill/Mt Parkes descend to 200 ft below the bottom of the toe of the buttress on the SE corner of Stumpy Hill/Mt Parkes. 5200 ft.(first water) At this point start traversing directly across to the East. (maintain elevation) Pass a field of very large granite boulders with a large 1/2 dead tree at the top. (bivy spots). Keep going East about 250 yards and as the angle starts down cross a very large nearly flat granite slab. 5100 ft. From the right (South) edge of this slab pick up a shallow drainage. Follow this drainage down about a 1/3 mile, steep in spots. This drainage is wet early season and dry late season. It goes straight down ESE? through pretty open forest. If you follow the drainage carefully you will come to the top of a rock gully (4400 ft) that goes straight down South into the main basin below the toe of the NE buttress. This bypasses a lot of forest and the bushwack as described in the Topo. You can see this tree canopied rock gully if you approach through the basin. Be aware the gully is steep class 4 in spots and has potential rockfall. From the basin take the climbers trail back to the memorial plaque and out. Edited per Dru and Red Becky guide, Stumpy Hill per McLane is really Mt.Parkes.

Don Heller, Jan 1974, on descent after Triple Couloir Hope Barns, Kathy Phibbs, Jan 1991, Triple Couloir Otto and Max Vaclavek, Sept 2007, scrambling Andrea Basque, Aug 2008, scrambling on start of Serpentine. So really rough guess 4 climbers per week since 1974. 7,280 climbers in 35 years. So .082 percent deaths.

the broken one in the photo on Deberdinka's post, the 12th post

A buddy and I want to try Dragontail weather permitting. I've heard over the years of some people dying there and did a search. Since 1974 at least six people have died on Dragontail. Does this seem like an excessive number? Like for some reason is the Stuart range more dangerous or is it just a higher number of climbers? Like I've never heard of anyone dying on the Liberty Bell group, just saying. Are there any estimates for the number of climbers in the Stuart range verses the number of Climbers at WA pass since 1974? Or is it the fact that the Stuart range is more alpine and WA pass is more roped technical climbing?

Concur, it's way more than a 1/4 mile, probably more than a 1/2 mile and there are several pieces of culvert but the correct piece of culvert is about 1/2 filled up with dirt, and the culvert is just resting on the old road, not buried in it.

If it was carbon steel the entire corroded area would be dark brown. Stainless might do that after a century submerged in salt water.

That hanger is definitely aluminum. It's massively corroded but not with ferrous rust. It has some slight ferrous rust staining, probably from a ferrous bolt nut or washer. Stainless will not corrode like that. Aluminum can be identified by the sound it makes when tapped with another hard object. It's hard to explain you have to try it for yourself. Just tap it with a beaner. Once you get used to this ID method you can even tap with your fingernail. Try it, compare a beaner to a steel piton by tapping. Aluminum can also be ID'd visually although this is not as certain when you start talking coatings. Another clue might be thickness, would imagine these aluminum hangers are thicker than a normal stainless or steel hanger. The magnetic test is inconclusive for aluminum because stainless is also non magnetic. Can't imagine why they would make aluminum hangers, unless it was some kind of short term application. Or some kind of rigging that needed to be light but was inspected/replaced often.

If you can do it in 29 hrs roped you should def be able to break 24 hrs solo.

There's never any water on this route, but there is snow. Was there any snow on the giant bivy ledge at pitch 15 or so? If you had to place gear and rap down a gully at the Part II crux you went off route. There is one short fixed rap there then you get back on a trail and continue along the ridge for about another 1/8 mile before you drop down below Stumpy hill.

Don't feel bad cuz you're in good company, Wayne 1112 got spanked on this one also. Wayne's TR So how much water was "not enough water"? I was looking for an account of the Traverse by Croft on the web and can't find it. Only that it's 6 peaks and about 6 or 7 miles of climbing. These are the peaks Stuart Sherpa Argonaut Colchuck Dragontail Prussick and it was in July so 16 hrs of daylight compared to 13 now. Since it's hotter in July you would need like an overcast day. He did it in '89, I don't think Camelbacks were in use at that time. I know the guys that do the speed ascents in the valley use Camelbacks.

I've got some extra gear to add to the pile. Whatever is needed. I've tried to sell some of this stuff in the past but can't get what I want so might as well give it to a good cause.

you need to clean off the rust and make a nice rack and hang them all in cronological order.

nice climb, nice TR :tup: this is the best pic

was already posted, saw it on AOL when it came out also links to the you tube vid http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/904284/The_Ultimate_Slackline#Post904284

LINK Sep 2nd 2009 By Ian Fortey French Spider-Man in Trouble Again Alain Robert, better known as "that dude on that building there" and sometimes known as Spider-Man thanks to his penchant for climbing up giant structures, has officially made it to the top of one of the world's tallest by scaling the Petronas Towers in Kuala Lumpur. Spidey tackled the 1,483-foot building just before dawn and, using no safety equipment, made his way to the roof by 7:30, where he busted out the Malaysian flag in celebration. He was then arrested for trespassing. Robert had tried to scale the Petronas Towers twice before and each time was hauled in at the 60th floor by security. He's climbed 85 buildings in his career, including the Eiffel Tower, the Sears Tower, the Empire State Building and Taipei 101, which at the time was the tallest building in the world at 1,667 feet. Surprisingly, scaling buildings is not without peril. Over the course of his career, Robert has had seven falls, the worst from 49 feet, which resulted in numerous fractures. He's been arrested at least eight times, since he rarely gets permission to make the climbs. We know the cops are just doing their jobs, but if there ever actually is a supervillian at the top of one of those buildings, everyone's going to be looking to Robert to save the day.

why rent one if you can get Fairweather to show up for free?

Wonder how much snow this peak got this weekend? And what are the chances of it melting out by the 18th Sept? Could look at the Tumwater weather station but that's lower down. Imagine it would up the seriousness of the route if the upper half was covered in powder snow.

Dan messed up in a couple ways. A big one was letting the cell battery go dead. Probably left it on in a non reception area. When they're on search mode they suck the battery quick. don't shorten your story, it's fine as is. As far as cravasse rescue, study "Freedom" and then go out in the yard, put your rope up in a tree and practice cravasse rescue. First learn to prusick up and down the rope, then set up a Z pulley system and haul a 150 pound weight up and down.