Buckaroo

Yeah, a trip without any luggage.

WAY TO GO!! Toughing it out to summit! I know some guys that would have turned around. nice TR also ""And that was not bivying!"" yeah it is, that's hard core alpine, it's called a "forced bivy" when things don't go exactly as planned and you bivy without real bivy gear. IE no sleeping bags. And CC needs to fix it's automated naming that goes with a member's post count. You don't look like a journey"man" to me

I don't think you've contemplated escaping a belay. You need two prusiks on your harness at all times. And when you're going to lose 17 draws do you keep going with some kind of misplaced ethics or do you grab the gear and get on with it?

the photographer tilted the image, it would look even steeper if the horizon line was straight. I think it's the upward angle that would make this difficult. Plus just the endurance, that's 3,265 ft. Wonder what the vertical gain is? wonder what the wind factor is also, they must wait for a dead calm. What if the maintainance man left a big splotch of grease somewhere along there? [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bg2wveV4e4M

Freddy Nock on the 995-meter-long cable of the cable railway on top of Zugspitz mountain, Germany, for a new world record.

If you had to leave gear on raps on the descent then you were off route. Still you made it back safe which is good. That descent is harder routefinding than the climb. When I did it I recond the week before 1/2 way up the descent.

""I've got a set of 19mo twins and we are going to be at City of Rocks from 9/12-18 to climb with another couple (who have a 6 mo old); we need someone to help corral and look after the rascals during the day."" are they free range? Does this include the horses to round them up? Do they need branding also? ""we're staying in Almo at the cottages. "" hopefully the Mexicans don't attack during your stay. ""was thinking ~10$/hr plus some belaying?"" barely out of the womb and you already have them on lead?

Can you post a gear list? And what kind of shoes on approach and climb? Crampons, axe?

If there is a walk off it's a very long one. If soloed it's usually downclimbed or you can rap.

Nope. Seems a bit of hypocrisy in operation, though. Moore is simply another side of the same coin as Limbaugh, et al. not even close, Moore exaggerates but he usually gets his facts correct. about 75% of the time Limbaugh is essentially fact free.

the only trouble is like right now when there is so very little effective or "appropriate" oversite. the bankers are doing whatever they fricking want to.

You can't tell how fast he's really going cuz it's sped up. Besides he didn't do the crux on the left or go to the top, that's the scariest part, the slab at the top.

Suppose I agree with that, some supplements make exaggerated claims, especially the weight builder ones. the best time I ever had on Rainier was when I spent 4 days at 7,000 to 9,500 before summiting. My buddies were doing it in two days and came up and met me at Sherman. I literally ran rings around them on summit day.

Agree with the next camp East from the hairpin. The bugs end at the pass as it's drier on the East side. Thought it was only about a mile on the N side of the road. It's quicker though to car camp at the Blue Lake TH cuz it's closer.

Nice TR Yeah, it makes it more alpine if you go all the way to the base. I think you can traverse around the big moats. The very bottom pitch is a little loose, the easiest 1st pitch version is the one on the right. And you can climb (5.4) around the 5.7 2nd pitch. The bottom pitches are just like the upper ones though, thin pro. Such a pretty peak and a nice easy walk off too. Bivy on the summit to get the full alpine effect. Lots of nice flat spots. I compare it to the Tooth but with a little more exposure due to the straight down N face as opposed to the ledges on the S face of the Tooth. And certainly less crowded than the Tooth.

the ATC guide and new Petzl Reverso 3 do the same thing and more with less pieces. the Reverso 3 is the lightest of the bunch.

Calluses are better than tape, you don't have to take them on and off and you can laugh at the waitress at the Mexican restaurant when she tells you the plate is hot.

You're not exactly clear about what happened? You say you're in voice range, then you say things got said but not heard. When AA finally yelled "belay on" did BB hear that? here's what you should have done, after waiting what you thought was longer than it should have taken. BB yells out "hey AA, are you off?" no answer? BB yells out "HEY AA!!!!! AM I ON?" no answer? use the radio. you neglect to mention if you're using a 60m, at full stretch they can be right at the limit of voice communication. Especially if you're over a little bulge or there's some wind. With a 60m, even if you have radio's you need a rope tug communication system just in case. Radio's can fail. With rope tug signals there's only one time you signal per pitch and that's like this. The leader gets to the belay and sets up an anchor and puts the follower on belay, then he signals with (typically) 5 hard tugs about 2 sec long and timed about 2 sec apart. This is taken to mean the leader is off belay and has put the follower on belay and it's ready to climb. the main thing whatever tug system you use is to make the tugs all alike, even with each other, that way there's no mistaking what you're doing and not confusing it with climbing up and down at a crux or something.

The toxic chemical big pharma industry is amazing in some respects... they convince people to spend $Trillions on their products in spite of the fact prescription drugs are one of the biggest killers in the health care industry. And with their greedy corrupt multi $million dollar CEO's and poor outcomes of drug "therapies" they're one of the major reasons the USA pays many times more $$$$ than the next nearest country for piss poor health care ranked 36th in the world. actually the good ones list the content of active ingredients. All you have to do is find what works for you and stick with that. I did it myself and it's not that hard.

Ginkgo helps circulation at the peripheries, IE hands feet head. With bad circulation by heredity I get ocular migraines going to anything over 6,000ft. That doesn't happen with Gingko. It also helps the altitude hangover dings that happens the next day after coming down.

Both mine and theirs. And it costs about 15 cents a dose. Cuz their not spending $Billions on Advertising and Lobbying. I'm not saying Diamox doesn't work, just that I prefer a natural method.

Ginkgo works really well for me. Don't give a damn what any pharma funded study says. And it doesn't have the side or after effects that the pharma chemicals do. and hydration is very important when it comes to performing at altitude

Started as a hiker moved to peak bagging, then roped cragging and roped peak bagging went on to do all types of climbing, guess I'm an all rounder at this point, just enjoy getting out prefer the most though a combination, peak bagging a peak by a hard route and having no walk up. whatever trips your trigger

Yeah, there's no excuse not to take two headlamps now days, their so light, just take the 2nd one without it's band and reuse the first band. I still take just one though when it's harder climbing, just make sure there's brand new lithium batteries. nice TR that's a "good" injury compared to broken bones and needing a carry out.

Yeah I had step aiders for a long time, then tried the Metolius sliders and would never go back. No more trying to get your foot in a loop in the wind. Don't need them on a daisy cuz they're hooked to your foot, And they always top step higher than a step aider because they are adjustable not fixed, so you get more reach on each placement. Thus less placements and quicker pitches. you should just keep working them till you figure them out I guess I shouldn't say I'm anti belay device cuz I have used the soloist. I've heard the gri-gri is even better but I've never used it. Did you do the little mod where you take out the corner piece? the clove hitch just always seemed so simple, but I've never done anything more than C2, maybe one or two C3 placements. With the clove hitch you just hitch a extra large beaner at your waist, when you've climbed up till the rope is tight, you place a piece as high as possible, then pull enough slack through the knot to clip that piece. Then you'll have enough slack to climb to that piece and the next one before you have to pull slack again. So pulling slack every 2 pieces. Then of course a back up figure 8 loop on another waist beaner to keep from a ground fall. Yeah I guess the bird beaks place without hammering, it's been a while since I placed one. never had a porta-ledge, did do Green Dragon but with a partner. The link up sounds good, did it take two days?