Buckaroo

Nope. Seems a bit of hypocrisy in operation, though. Moore is simply another side of the same coin as Limbaugh, et al. not even close, Moore exaggerates but he usually gets his facts correct. about 75% of the time Limbaugh is essentially fact free.

the only trouble is like right now when there is so very little effective or "appropriate" oversite. the bankers are doing whatever they fricking want to.

You can't tell how fast he's really going cuz it's sped up. Besides he didn't do the crux on the left or go to the top, that's the scariest part, the slab at the top.

Suppose I agree with that, some supplements make exaggerated claims, especially the weight builder ones. the best time I ever had on Rainier was when I spent 4 days at 7,000 to 9,500 before summiting. My buddies were doing it in two days and came up and met me at Sherman. I literally ran rings around them on summit day.

Agree with the next camp East from the hairpin. The bugs end at the pass as it's drier on the East side. Thought it was only about a mile on the N side of the road. It's quicker though to car camp at the Blue Lake TH cuz it's closer.

Nice TR Yeah, it makes it more alpine if you go all the way to the base. I think you can traverse around the big moats. The very bottom pitch is a little loose, the easiest 1st pitch version is the one on the right. And you can climb (5.4) around the 5.7 2nd pitch. The bottom pitches are just like the upper ones though, thin pro. Such a pretty peak and a nice easy walk off too. Bivy on the summit to get the full alpine effect. Lots of nice flat spots. I compare it to the Tooth but with a little more exposure due to the straight down N face as opposed to the ledges on the S face of the Tooth. And certainly less crowded than the Tooth.

the ATC guide and new Petzl Reverso 3 do the same thing and more with less pieces. the Reverso 3 is the lightest of the bunch.

Calluses are better than tape, you don't have to take them on and off and you can laugh at the waitress at the Mexican restaurant when she tells you the plate is hot.

You're not exactly clear about what happened? You say you're in voice range, then you say things got said but not heard. When AA finally yelled "belay on" did BB hear that? here's what you should have done, after waiting what you thought was longer than it should have taken. BB yells out "hey AA, are you off?" no answer? BB yells out "HEY AA!!!!! AM I ON?" no answer? use the radio. you neglect to mention if you're using a 60m, at full stretch they can be right at the limit of voice communication. Especially if you're over a little bulge or there's some wind. With a 60m, even if you have radio's you need a rope tug communication system just in case. Radio's can fail. With rope tug signals there's only one time you signal per pitch and that's like this. The leader gets to the belay and sets up an anchor and puts the follower on belay, then he signals with (typically) 5 hard tugs about 2 sec long and timed about 2 sec apart. This is taken to mean the leader is off belay and has put the follower on belay and it's ready to climb. the main thing whatever tug system you use is to make the tugs all alike, even with each other, that way there's no mistaking what you're doing and not confusing it with climbing up and down at a crux or something.

The toxic chemical big pharma industry is amazing in some respects... they convince people to spend $Trillions on their products in spite of the fact prescription drugs are one of the biggest killers in the health care industry. And with their greedy corrupt multi $million dollar CEO's and poor outcomes of drug "therapies" they're one of the major reasons the USA pays many times more $$$$ than the next nearest country for piss poor health care ranked 36th in the world. actually the good ones list the content of active ingredients. All you have to do is find what works for you and stick with that. I did it myself and it's not that hard.

Ginkgo helps circulation at the peripheries, IE hands feet head. With bad circulation by heredity I get ocular migraines going to anything over 6,000ft. That doesn't happen with Gingko. It also helps the altitude hangover dings that happens the next day after coming down.

Both mine and theirs. And it costs about 15 cents a dose. Cuz their not spending $Billions on Advertising and Lobbying. I'm not saying Diamox doesn't work, just that I prefer a natural method.

Ginkgo works really well for me. Don't give a damn what any pharma funded study says. And it doesn't have the side or after effects that the pharma chemicals do. and hydration is very important when it comes to performing at altitude

Started as a hiker moved to peak bagging, then roped cragging and roped peak bagging went on to do all types of climbing, guess I'm an all rounder at this point, just enjoy getting out prefer the most though a combination, peak bagging a peak by a hard route and having no walk up. whatever trips your trigger

Yeah, there's no excuse not to take two headlamps now days, their so light, just take the 2nd one without it's band and reuse the first band. I still take just one though when it's harder climbing, just make sure there's brand new lithium batteries. nice TR that's a "good" injury compared to broken bones and needing a carry out.

Yeah I had step aiders for a long time, then tried the Metolius sliders and would never go back. No more trying to get your foot in a loop in the wind. Don't need them on a daisy cuz they're hooked to your foot, And they always top step higher than a step aider because they are adjustable not fixed, so you get more reach on each placement. Thus less placements and quicker pitches. you should just keep working them till you figure them out I guess I shouldn't say I'm anti belay device cuz I have used the soloist. I've heard the gri-gri is even better but I've never used it. Did you do the little mod where you take out the corner piece? the clove hitch just always seemed so simple, but I've never done anything more than C2, maybe one or two C3 placements. With the clove hitch you just hitch a extra large beaner at your waist, when you've climbed up till the rope is tight, you place a piece as high as possible, then pull enough slack through the knot to clip that piece. Then you'll have enough slack to climb to that piece and the next one before you have to pull slack again. So pulling slack every 2 pieces. Then of course a back up figure 8 loop on another waist beaner to keep from a ground fall. Yeah I guess the bird beaks place without hammering, it's been a while since I placed one. never had a porta-ledge, did do Green Dragon but with a partner. The link up sounds good, did it take two days?

If you're going to go this far you might as well go over Wolly Shoulder to the Alberta hut. The best views in the Rockies IMHO. Mt Alberta and N Twin

watch carefully for the right turn off the river/creek, it's a rocky (usually)dry streambed. It starts about where the river ends it's steep cascade. Like already mentioned it's canopied by trees. If you miss that you spend an extra hour or two bushwacking. the start of Dreamer is inobvious, the dihedrals are left facing not right facing as shown in the Nelson books. The other climbs are tricky to find also.

forget the Stone-age ladder or step style aiders, get the sliding adjustable ones. Light years better. They are lighter, easier to use, faster, and climb higher on each placement. So less gear placements on each pitch. forget the pitons and hammer, there's so much clean aid to do first. solo aid with a clove hitch and back up knot, you don't need devices agree on the cam hooks but start with only 2, they are not usually left as a placement you leapfrog them, you'll never need 4 unless you're doing nothing but aid. yes on the offsets, good for flaring pin scars look for used gear, especially the nuts and beaners, it gets beat up anyway aiding. some classic lines are City Park, Stern Farmer, Narrow Arrow Direct then do Town Crier solo in a long day. (I did it on summer solstice) for City Park you need one set cams, one set nuts and 2 more sets of mid to smallest nuts including offsets. 6-8 draws, 20 free beaners, couple slings. Cordalette(optional) aid is much maligned but it's a very good teaching tool to learn placements of gear. You get to study placements up close and concentrate on just that without worrying about free climbing. It' also a necessary skill if you ever want to do the Salathe or the Nose and don't climb 5.13. until you learn to not jam nuts take a small cleaning hammer you can tap the back of the cleaning tool with. If you bounce test too hard on City Park or similar stuff they will jam. Like a little tack hammer works best. For C-2 you might want to add a couple A5 bird beaks for thin seams, you can tap them in with the small cleaning hammer. They work when nothing else will.

One set Camalots to #4 (skip the #3.5)(add the #5 if you want to climb chimney's) (#3 and #4 bigbros, again only for chimney's) One full set Metoleus TCU's One full set DMM wallnuts (the best) 30-40 Wild Country Helium Beaners (wired keylocks) (nothing else comes close) 15 to 20 spectra draws 5 or so spectra shoulder slings 2 or so double slings. 1 tech cord cordalette 1 Petzl Reverso 3 (nothing else comes close)

the cam looks bomber but you need to unclip it from your gear sling and clip it into your harness or it's not going to hold jack-crap. NO on the bolts. Trad route on trad crag, you don't want to teach newbys that there's going to be bolts everywhere they "need" them. Un-tieing and blowing a whistle? A. Darwin candidate B. Shouldn't be trad climbing in the first place, not enough common sense.

You want "selected alpine climbs in the Canadian Rockies"

Yeah, this is for all day alpine so are the Acopa JB's and Kalkulators board lasted?

I usually wear Aces, with the board last. What other rock shoe is this stiff and ankle height? Looking for a big wall shoe that's stiff.

Let us know what you used and how it went