Buckaroo

Some climbs will have one pitch with a section that only protects with your big piece. On other pitches on the climb if you don't leave it with the follower you try to place it early, choosing the big pieces over the small early to get rid of the weight.

read it again, I edited and added more info

Sailors are pansies who don't keep their gumbies in line. Climbers don't put up with gumbies, they give them the beat down until they learn not to ask stupid gumby questions. (JK!) The title of your post might lead someone to believe you are trolling anyway so maybe people are not really dissing you, they are just trolling you back. IF there really was a cam up your a** you would be at the hospital having it removed, not trolling on the internet with stupid gumby questions. I'll answer the question though because I like newbies, I used to be one, I take them climbing and answer their questions no matter what. Small cams in front cuz they're easier to see there. Small cams get crowded together and are easier to separate and grab in front. The big cams are easy to grab regardless so put them in back where it's harder to get to. Also because when climbing steep ground you want to hug the wall to keep your weight over your feet. If there's a number 4 Camalot on the front of your chest it pushes you back and onto your arms which get pumped out and fail, then you fall and can get maimed or killed. Which would really suck because then you wouldn't be able to climb anymore and you wouldn't post on CC where you could get trolled by more experienced climbers, much to their enjoyment. If you have problems with the rack getting in the way, take if off and clip it out of the way on the anchor. I do that all the time just for the comfort even when there's plenty of room. It can also be considered poor form to lead to a belay ledge and have any large pieces left. If you can't place the #3 or #4 (or larger) Camalot on the pitch you should have left it with the follower to carry. Some climbs have just a couple pitches where you need big stuff, on the other pitches there's no reason for the leader to carry that weight. Of course this doesn't apply if you can't see the entire pitch and/or don't know the climb that well.

there was a thread on this a while back I wear Air Optics Night & Day (America's Best Contacts and Eyeglasses) they are supposed to be used for a month straight without removal and then thrown away I use them like daily wears and take them out at night, or every other night. They last up to a year if you take them out at night and are a lot cheaper than daily wears. But when I'm climbing I leave them in overnight for up to a couple weeks with no problem. But different people react differently so try this at home before you do it on a climb. I carry extras when climbing but just for if one falls out. The only time I've ever lost a contact was on Half Dome and a dry wind deflected off my sunglasses and dried them out so quick one fell out and blew away. they were nice when my arm was in a cast and I couldn't get my hand up to my eye to deal with them I got lucky a couple of exams ago and both eyes are the same so I don't have to worry about right and left. Since then I told the doc just split the difference if my eyes are a little different and give me the same script for each eye.

whimps. should have at least tried going with sling aiders and prussiks for one pitch. Of course considering how slow they were with the full gear it would have taken them a week.

If you are hiking that far, get in some more climbing. Try doing some laps and take a different line each lap. There's 2 or 3 lines on each pitch. I'll rap all the way to the bottom of the descent gully and do the laps from there. The most I can remember doing is 4 laps. Also mixing it up between climbing boots and rock shoes, and down climbing and rapping. If you solo on the weekend you can train using the Mountaineers as objective hazard. I climbed the Tooth today with Edel. (7-19) We left the parking lot at 5am and did 2 roped laps. Perfect snow, firm in the morning and just soft enough on descent. The trail was snow free and all the talus after the trail was snow covered. The rap gully (which we climbed) to Pineapple pass was snow free all the way but had a lot of loose winter rock. This gully adds to the climb length and gives a more alpine feel. The 30% chance of rain never materialized or if it did it was after we drove away at 1pm. Clear blue in the morning and light clouds by 1. -------- BTW Nice TR Devin Here's a couple pics, not bad for a Droid Razr camera

5 x 2 minutes once a day? What is the best way to stretch this? I have a torn left ACL and it's wearing to the bone on the edge, sort of painful to do a standing sideways split. the only leg exercise I get is hiking with a pack and climbing. What's the best way to strengthen abductors? Thinking the bad left knee which may be overtaxing the right leg don't think anything else is tight, have a good high step stretch

looks like 20% to 30% afternoon rain, 2 days ago it said sun for Thur. The Tooth is the one peak that I've climbed so many times I lost count. I think one time I did 4 laps in a day.

Any takers? Will guide newbys. Have all the gear.

2nd the BD Vaporlock, keylock 52 gm 20 mm Photon 42 gm 19 mm Attache 55 gm 22 mm Helix 76 gm 24 mm

When I injured my arm this winter I did a lot of hiking and was doing some stretching but apparently not enough. The inner thigh muscles on my right leg have become really tight to the point they kink up just walking around. I have a pretty good split stretch front to rear, it's the side to side stretch (legs split straight sideways) that is really tight. Technically I think it's the adductor muscles. Tried soaking, massaging, stretching, nothing seems to make it better. Time to hire an expert but I've never done anything like this. Should this be a physical therapist or a sports massage therapist? Or someone else? Can anyone recommend someone?

I thought Colin did a TR on the N face. Robson makes it's own weather. Alternatives, N Face Edith Cavell, Japanese Route or NE Ridge of Mt Alberta.

How exactly do you fall on a piece of gear on top rope? Just curious.

Soloing? Brains, guts, and muscle. Roped on rock, red camalot, yellow mastercam, any size DMM Wallnut Roped on ice, 17cm express, 17cm express, 17cm express

I just did the squeeze on top rope, it's a little bigger than the hollow flake on Salathe but just as hard. It would be called old school 5.9 but it's really 5.10 Chasing the Lizard is also very fun. Me and EmKay did these climbs on 7-5, and I also did them on 5-13 with James N.

These nuts should be graded. Like minimum grade 5, better grade 8. Has to be a reputable supplier. Like Tacoma Screw or McClendon's. Lowe's or Home Depot you're taking a chance that nuts get mixed into the wrong bin. Bolts have a grade marking on them but nuts do not so you can't tell by looking, you have to know the supplier is giving you a graded nut.

The Tooth, 3 pitches of 5.6 to a summit The Beckey Route on Liberty Bell, 3 pitches of 5.6 to a summit. West ridge of Forbidden, probably a snow gulley to the ridge this time of year, then mostly scrambling and a few moves of 5.6 You would need a harness and rock shoes, but there's usually people willing to take beginners on these, including myself.

[video:youtube]

too much snow still on Index for the traverse is my guess.

Don Heller, Jan 1974 George Kotick, 1987 Hope Barnes Kathy Phibbs, Jan 1991 Otto and Max Vaclavek, Sept 2007 Andrea Basque, Aug 2008 Rest in peace fellow climbers

If your approaching and descending the same way you could just take an axe. The sharpened stick approach is for doing a carry over.

I could show you how to sharpen a stick for a self belay and approach Freedom Rider in approach tennies with a steep shrund without pons or axe. I recommend Buckner this time of year if you want alpine ice. One of the 9,000'ders. The north face is 1,300 ft of 40 to 50 deg snow/ice. It's just a 1.5 to 1 day climb though, but there's other things you could do in the area like the N ridge of Forbidden, which involves a long snow face approach.

Thursday 6 28, from the summit of Liberty Bell I also heard from a friend of a friend that the spires were clear of snow although there is snow in the approach gullies, which is what it looks like in this pic. The snow on both sides of Liberty bell was pretty manageable without crampons or axe although a stick was some help around the shrund on the East side where it's a little steep. Perfect for kicking steps. You ascend to the base of the climb with a stick then on the backside descent you use your cleaning tool or a rock, didn't really need even that. Liberty is about the same elev as the Wine Spires so the snow should be the same. We approached/descended Freedom Rider in really light approach tennies, they got all wet but it was just a day climb.

I have a pic from last Thur. Ill post after work

I'm from Texass, it's pronounced cowl-ore (keeping your teeth closed together). But in WA state it's coo-lar another one that pisses me off is "neve" really confusing is the names how about Wanda Rutkiewicz or Kangchenjunga, even if you can pronounce it, try to say it 3 times fast.