Buckaroo

You do know the standard multi loop Metoleus gear sling has two little tabs on it to attach another adjustable loop. You can then tighten it down so it doesn't swing around. http://www.rei.com/product/620115/metolius-multi-loop-double-d-contour-gear-sling http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Climbing/SlingsWebbing/PRD~4007-719/metolius-gear-sling-component.jsp

I like the feeling of trad climbing to a belay and setting up a 3 piece anchor and having like only 3 nuts and 1 cam left on the rack. I could see having a double shoulder harness to solve the sliding around problem, but it would have to have separate smaller loops, and I wouldn't carry any more gear than I do now.

THE MESSNER'S PRAYER Our Messner, which art on the summit. Hallowed be thy name Thy Summit come. Thy climb be done, at the base As it is on the headwall. Give us this rope and rack of gear. And forgive us our hangdogging As we forgive those who helicopter in. And lead us not onto fractured cornices And deliver us from loose death blocks. For thine is the 8000'der The book deals, and the movies, For ever and ever Belay ON!

But they would both sound the same if you used their rookie cards in your bike spokes to make a motor noise. LOLZ!

So Messner is a God then? Do you pray to him before you climb? I've read a lot of Messner's writing and watched his films. He is very accomplished. I didn't say he's a wanker I said he's a poser. He was at the right place at the right time, and provided with the genes to do the job. There's a lot of people out there that given the same circumstances could accomplish the same thing. Kukuczka totally kicked his ass, as far as difficulty and time frame. Messner climbed the Eiger in 10 hours. Steck climbed the Eiger in 2.5 hours.

Kukuczka was better, aside from everest he did all 14 faster, by new routes or by winter ascents. Messner did no winter and few new routes. Messner was good but he's a ball buffer

IMHO Messner is an over-hyped climber, he was just the first one there. Jerzy Kukuczka did way better than him and in much better style. Nobody back then is in the same league as Steck as far as solo of technical difficulty and speed.

Yeah, forecast calls for rain Here you go Dru, some slabs in a kayak [video:youtube]

Wanted to climb Yak crack mid week. Was wondering about snow conditions and if it's climbable.

if u come down Asgard b careful, this is the time of year that woman fell in and was trapped

Looking at the recent TC TR's do you think the rock routes on Dragontail will be in? Or did you mean the winter routes?

Whatever it is, it gets shorter as you age. I used to climb Outer Space with about 10 cams to #2, and it never felt runout. I just climbed it this Monday with 14 cams to #3 and it felt runout more than once.

Yeah, there's 4 different body types, regardless of exercise, and they all have different nutritional requirements.

Different metabolisms react differently. I can't find the reference to the deep sleep problem online, it's in one of my paper books. It is also relevant that your digestion is assisted by gravity, when you lie down it's not getting that assist. Someone that's doing a 24 hr hard exercise cycle is burning a huge amount of calories and these generic guidelines may not apply. Their body is constantly needing to refuel and any break in that is disruptive. A differing metabolism comparison. I cragged with Steve Swensen back in Feb. He eats a huge traditional breakfast, bacon and eggs the whole lot. We get an aerobic hike approach and do some pretty hard mixed climbing. I eat nothing for breakfast and fuel on shot blocks the entire day. He kicks ass with that breakfast, and while I'm not near his caliber I do alright for my age. If I ate that huge breakfast and tried to do aerobics I would probably vomit.

Is it de-watering Sunset falls? If it is I'm against it. Agree though that hydroelectric is one of the better and least impact alternatives to power generation. the other alternatives are increasing efficiency like LED home lighting, and population control.

The general rule is don't eat anything within 3 hours before you go to sleep. Digestion interferes with deep sleep and sleep interferes with digestion. You can't fall into stage 4 sleep, (deep sleep, the most restful stage) which happens during the first half of the night, if your stomach is still digesting. When you try to sleep with a full stomach the food eventually vacates the stomach but because you are asleep the stomach doesn't know it's empty and continues to secrete digestive fluids. Hence the waking with gnawing hunger. I also question heavy training on a 24 hour cycle, although there are different schools of thought. You might try a 48 hour cycle or work different muscle groups. Don't know specifics on protein amounts but there is new info that tofu as a protein source is not that good, especially for certain individuals. It's not that the soy beans are bad, although the GMO ones are, it's what the processing does to the bean.

probably because it's not in the middle of the most scenic area on highway 2.

Got back to Seattle at 2:30am, I'm beat today, went to work and was almost falling asleep standing up. Don't know how many more link-ups like that I have in me, over the hill and picking up speed. Only took doubles of finger sizes and Camalots to number 3. Used to climb it with less than that but really starting to notice the runouts now. Both Orbit and O.S. have these cool pitches where you turn a corner out onto a face and big exposure. Like O.S. on the crux pitch, your crouched on this little pedestal looking up around the corner at the crux and contemplating the big air. Hey K.K. Can you trace the Champagne route on the "Right Side of SCW" pic for us if you get a chance?

Me and Ed Hobbick linked up Orbit and Outer Space on Memorial day in 16 hrs CtoC. We were going to link Orbit and Champagne but took too long on Orbit so decided to do what we knew and not the new adventure. So it will have to wait for next time. Snow Creek wall at 7:00 am Right side of SCW Champagne from two tree ledge Champagne from 6th pitch of Outer Space

did you take a 50 or a 60? Do you think it could be done with a 50? Is that 3 full single raps?

Seriously, I was thinking about that. It would be the quickest. But if you didn't get a good match it would still be visible, and then the camo color would wear off before the bright color. Depends how much of these markers there are as to how practical it will be to clean them off. I don't mind paint remover and a wire brush but there's only so much time.

I understand and agree with you about bolts although I do sometimes occasionally clip them, so am somewhat hypocritical. Bolts are arguably a necessary evil, but never in wilderness and ONLY where there is absolutely no other protection possible and the route is not a free solo for mortals. The environmental impact of spray paint is not as bad as bolts but from an aesthetic standpoint it's just as bad. Sort of like playing vid games with all the cheat codes. Spray painting the descent route is just one step away from spray painting the climbing route.

This happened to me at the Alpental parking lot when I was on an overnight trip. Not quite as much stuff as you but close. Had to drive back to the house with no drivers window. They busted the lock out but still couldn't get it open so broke the window. Ever since then I've always had car alarms in my vehicles. They busted my window on the road by Granite Falls (meth heads) but didn't take anything ($1500 worth), so maybe the alarm scared them off. The main key is never leave anything of value visible. Also if you have a bunch of stuff in the car and cover it up they will break in to see what it is that's covered up. My car has some hidden storage compartments. So rather than leave stuff under the hatch cargo cover I'll put it in the hidden compartments so it doesn't look like stuff is covered up. Then I'll leave an old ragged duffle open with some worthless clothes as a decoy. Browse Craigslist and maybe all the climbing forums, sometimes they are stupid enough to try and sell it in public. You have to prove it's yours, helps if it's marked, or if they sell everything at once. It would be fun to set up a sting operation. A beater car with a laptop on the seat. Hide in a tree with a crossbow with barbed titanium arrows that are engraved with the words "I am a thief". Shoot them right in the gluteus maximus.

after long and careful research I found the reference to spray paint in F.O.T.H. "Freedom of the Hills for Dummies" AKA "Freedom of the Hills for the Complete Idiot" "Chapter 23. Do NOT use spray paint to mark routes. No no NO" asterisk "spray paint NO" footnote "spray paint NEVER" index " spray paint NO, pg 125" NO NO NO NO NO [video:youtube]

Ok, need some ideas, howto clean this off without toxic paint remover