Buckaroo

What do you use to clean tree sap that's safe for ropes? I have a rope and a gore-tex tent that have tree sap that needs to be cleaned off.

looking for a urethane coated non-breathable hooded rainjacket. The cheapie kind, thin and lightweight. Prefer off the shelf in Seattle area. There used to be an Outdoors and More store near the downtown REI. They sold a Helly-Hansen like this but they are no longer there and H-H doesn't show it on their website.

The Denny Creek trailhead has some new signs that say "this area under video surveillance". After all these pukes are doing this in broad daylight.

Probably the methheads that live nearby. Ive seen them casing the cars before. White trash pukes.

Yes, I was thinking Dragontail this year, it's over 8000 ft. Either the Serpenting Arete or Backbone Ridge.

I just went to the col cuz I had to be back at work today. Her and Brad went up the East face but I don't think they summited.

Mitocondria, Brad, and I did the CJ couloir yesterday. The snow was perfect. A lot more firm than what it looks like in your pics, no postholing.

and a bar and a restaurant

the Stuart zone is the only zone in the enchantments that has a few open reservable spots other than the lottery

Here's the BEST way to go, also the quickest

there was this thread just a couple months back http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1073228/Re_Slesse_NEB_avoiding_pocket_#Post1073228

I should write a post about car camping. My first requirement when purchasing a car is can you sleep in the back of it. Only been hassled 3 times in Canada, and it was avoidable all 3 times. The first time was in January during an arctic cold front. It was 40F below and I got cold in the truck and tried to sleep in the heated bathroom and some motor-homer ratted me out to the ranger the 2nd time was sleeping at the Mt Colin trailhead (Jasper) without a park pass. They just gave me a warning and let me continue camping there on my promise to get a pass asap. the 3rd time was on the side of the dirt road a couple miles above the Nordic center in Canmore. I slept about 3 hours past sunrise. Probably would have been okay if it was a trailhead or rest stop. Ranger just gave me a warning.

Caveat, YMMV The Canmore Vermillion and Norquay are recent info (this past winter), the mountain trailheads are going back from like 2008 to 1998 low profile, in the dark, and a park pass. Officially some of this may be bending the rules.

Mt Norquay ski area has a huge lot with a trailhead. Just say you are going hiking in the morning if anyone asks. The road takes off North from the hiway 1 opposite to the Western Banff exit. Go up about 2 miles, first parking lot on the right. (no johns) Nice views of Banff at night from the road. Vermillion Lakes, about a 2 mile dead end road, parallels hiway 1 on the south side, going west from the western Banff exit. There's a couple pull outs with porta-johns. Hidden from the hiway, vehicles on the hiway can't see you and it's lower than the freeway so not much noise. Gap Lake (?) on 1A (Bow Valley Trail) going East out of Canmore. About 3 or 4 miles from town on the right. Close to the road but hidden by trees. Right on the lake with bathrooms. I've never had any problem car camping at any of the trailheads. The key is to come in after dark and don't sleep late in the morning. The only trouble I ever had was sleeping till about 8 am one morning and the ranger just said, you have to find a campground. I also got hassled one time because I didn't have a park pass, but they just gave me a warning and I bought one the next day. There's a couple of rest stops also along 1A, one above Vermillion lakes and one midways between Banff and Canmore, it's a little more off the hiway below Mt Rundle. You can always car camp at rest stops. There's also a large rest stop trailhead midways between Lake Louise and Banff on hiway 1. On the South side of the hiway I've car camped at all these trailheads. Castle Mt., Mt Alberta, Mt Louis, Mt Colin, Mt Edith Cavell, Mt Assiniboine, Sir Donald... probably some others I can't remember.

Washington Pass, no glaciers nearby but way better weather and a shorter approach

Toes hitting in boots is not good in any circumstances except technical climbing, and not even then sometimes. from your description it sounds like you need the 37.5. Don't compromise just because they didn't have your size in stock. If you want a tighter fit in the 37.5 put a thicker insert or thicker socks. Something where you can adjust it to not hit your toes on the downhill.

I swear by the multi-loop Metoleus, rack the draws on the harness, and the shoulder length slings opposite shoulder from the rack.

I doubt a carry would break a collarbone further. It was probably already fully broken and it just became displaced. Please tell this individual to keep and eye on that collarbone. If they become too displaced it can cause problems because it will heal in the displaced position and some doctors don't think it matters. Climbers typically have muscles that are out of balance (stronger pull than push) which causes problems that some doctors don't see. I now have a Titanium plate with 8 screws because mine was displaced by 2cm.

Looks like good weather clear days in the forecast. Don't forget the sunglasses and sunscreen. The big guided parties take the DC. Not sure what days they go but you might want to try to get a jump on them if they are there at Muir. They can clog up the route but are not impossible to pass. Sometimes when it's clear you will get periodic wind gusts up high. It will be calm for 15 minutes at a stretch then these 40-60mph 15sec gusts will come out of nowhere. One year we had to fall to the arrest position to not be blown over. Partner lost a mit because he set it down when it was calm, gust came and it was gone. Make sure your points are sharp, you may want to take a small file, climbing the cleaver can dull points. There was a recent accident on the Emmons where slick (hard frozen) conditions may have been involved.

looks like there's still plenty of snow for melt water on the big bivy ledge

ROTFLMFAO!!!

Hopefully not. quite frequently

BD Camalots are the most popular cams on the market, you would think they might be doing something right. Yes people clip the short sling directly, usually when the rope is running straight before and after the piece. Try it yourself and watch and see what the cam is doing after you climb above the piece. If a placement is marginal or the cam has easy opportunity to walk you probably want more sling, but if it's bomber and/or in a pocket or feature where it can't walk then the short sling is okay. Remember also a shorter sling means a shorter fall and less weight. It's also a bit of a weight compromise to always be carrying a longer sling even when you may only need the short sling. What if you are climbing straight up splitters with all bomber placements? Now you are carrying all long slings when you don't need them. So with the BD you can either take or leave the extra length. Of course then the BD compromises having to use an extra beaner with longer slingage. If you think about it the DMM in the short clip configuration (doubled sling) is made to be able to use that way and it's about the same length as the BD. Different length slings are for straightening the rope's run in different situations. The larger/sharper corner that the route turns the longer of a sling you need. When the route goes straight you only need a short sling. This also applies to a roof or ledge. If you have a piece in the back corner of a roof/ledge you need a long sling so the rope doesn't make sharp turns and run over the lip of the roof/ledge. Also the doubled sling on the DMM may be problematic. Skinny slings lose strength when tied in a knot or twisted too much. If the doubled loop gets twisted where it runs through the eyelets is may loose strength, something you don't have to watch out for on the BD.

What difficulty rating? what time of day?