Buckaroo

Why give up soda? 1 to 1.5 cups sparkling spring water (Talking Rain from Whole Foods) 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon Stevia (has to be the liquid type, powder doesn't dissolve quickly in cold liquids.) 1/4 lime squeezed the best tasting natural soda, zero ill effects. (in fact lime is good for the kidneys) Stevia is my best secret, even makes plain Yogurt palatable, zero glycemic index..

That's not too bad. A Bibler Eldorado is $600

I think the beta is you have to start from the base of the climbing at dawn, that and simul rap on the descent. Either that or tie some neon surveyor tape to the belays as you go up and take super bright headlamps and plan on rapping in the dark. You're right near the solstice which is good for length of day, it's just maybe a wetter year than normal. I think this climb would dry out if there were a few full sun days in a row, it is south facing.

Cant tell if extra stupid or just trolling

I've never done it when it is like this pic. Both times we took the red line and both times the pocket glacier was much smaller and hanging at the top of what is shown here, and the right side was still pretty large. The right side is also a hanging glacier, maybe just not quite as active although can you be certain of this? It's a crap shoot whichever way except for waiting for the pocket glacier to completely come off and that doesn't even happen some years.

Red is the approach to the toe Green is the bypass approach Blue is the lower 6-8 pitches of the full buttress climb.

I think the bypass is the preferred route regardless of the pocket glacier condition, although it probably gets more climbs when the pocket glacier is gone. This may be due to the fact the bypass route can be climbed in a day but it's much harder to climb the full buttress in that time. Pretty sure the exposure is the same either way although the bypass would definitely be slower if the glacier is broken up and you have to climb through it.

Steampunk brand rose colored for sure

Your right, I can see the gendarme where the bypass comes in... dohhh.

I've done the full buttress twice, never the bypass. I think you are exposed either way. With the bypass you are closer to the pocket glacier so maybe you have less time to react if something goes. With the toe there's a section where you're scrambling the cirque wall and can't see the glacier so if it went you wouldn't be able to effectively dodge. So it's hard to gauge which approach is safer. I think the big factor is ambient temp. One of the times we did it was on a warm day and there was more activity than I've seen on cooler days. I would recommend doing the crossing at dawn, with the lowest ambient temps of the day, and try to pick a day with lower than average temps. I think with the high snow and the time of year on the bypass you are going to be crossing an actual snow/ice field with the glacier at the top. Here's a pic from a TR on the 23rd of May, so less than a month ago. So you're probably going to be crossing snow. This pic is looking straight on at the buttress so the horizontal snow band in lower/center left is on/across the route. The part that sticks up at the left end of the snow band is the pocket glacier. It might even be more stable in these conditions. When the pocket glacier is smaller it's just hanging on slabs. From this TR http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1069262

Yes but you are going to have a light on the dash and it may disable other features like traction control

Quad skinny runner with SMC rap ring set up like ACR with a light locker--- 150g time to construct and deconstruct using overhand knot to stow < 60 seconds. Could probably get it to < 30 seconds with some practice. better equalization than rope/clove hitch, better for full length pitches, better for block leads, better for getting out of the rope.

I want to see a quad length skinny runner with a rap ring sewn in so it can be used like an ACR Equallete. http://www.paulraphaelson.com/downloads/acr.pdf Or is there anyone in town that could sew a skinny runner back together? the skinny quad runner weighs 1/2 the weight of a 5mil tech cord (not to mention a 7mil) and you could make it even shorter because the ACR doesn't have a knot. the lightest strongest rap ring is the SMC

the junkfunnel link calcs force on the pro but all these calculators seem like they are going on the high side of the forces last summer on DHLA I fell on a 3/4 DMM Wallnut while rope soloing with a Rock Exotica Soloist. This 3/4 nut is rated at 3 to 4 Kn. All these calculators put the fall at 5.5 to 6.5 Kn. So according to the calcs the piece should have broken. The Soloist is a positive locking type device so no real give there. Apparently the IRL scenario is more dynamic than these calculators. The human body itself is not a dead weight, it's going to give a dynamic load. Knots tighten up, friction through all the beaners. I don't see why you couldn't go to one of the practice rocks and do some intentional falling. I used to do that on City Park just to get rid of falling fear. Why couldn't you do that to test what will hold and what won't? Just use a fat rope and bomber back up gear with lockers right behind your test piece.

I don't know about that, look at Peter Croft. Honnold is only a couple of notches above that. I think it's a matter of soloing at a certain level below what you can climb roped.

How do they know that's what happened if they're both dead?

You can see Stuart on the drive over if you take I90. I'm sure there's still snow on the upper parts. The melt makes all the upper cruxes wet even the bypass. If it went it would be full value.

the smaller ones are for aid, but only hard aid. Bought some for the Salathe and never used them. The larger ones work just as good as hexes for boat anchors.

I take up to 5 cordalettes, especially when I'm climbing ice with the 4 tool method [video:youtube]

True, being from snow country, the last thing I want is a weak algorithm managing any skids I happen to get into. So yeah, I similarly don't delegate belaying to a device either and don't think belaying off anchors is a particularly good idea. But it does play into doing other things than belaying when belaying if one is already so inclined. Modern ABS is pretty refined, in fact I'm pretty certain you couldn't outbrake it on a majority of slippery surfaces with manual brakes, especially on turns. What's wrong with autolock for belaying the follower? After all it's just a top rope. Frees up a lot of time especially on a big wall. You can also belay two followers at once, easily stack twin ropes, and stop to take pictures. It's just plain easier.

When flipping leads you can also clip your harness belay loop into the braking beaner on the autolock setup, then undo the autolock anchor beaner, to put someone on lead belay, without ever taking them off belay.

5 mil tech cord or quad length spectra runner which is 1/2 the weight of tech cord. It's a little shorter than the standard cordalette but the knot takes up less length so it evens out.

LOLZ!!! That's a keeper. Yeah, ways to outsmart. I started really using energy gels when I went over the hill, that was a while back. Try REI for spec comparisons, but just on what they carry.

im up for SCW on Sunday

That's not really very much gear. Not even close to an aid rack. That should easily go on one shoulder sling. This would be the ticket with the adjustable/removeable loop that can be used to hold the main sling from moving around. http://www.rei.com/product/620115/metolius-multi-loop-double-d-contour-gear-sling My free rack. 1 set DMM Wallnuts (10 pieces) 7 Metoleus Mastercams 6 BD Camalots to #2 optional extras #3, #4 BD Camalots #10, #11 DMM Wallnuts 4 HB brass offsets