Buckaroo

Time, yes, that was a way late start for this climb with this team, it left no margin for error. Generally the earlier start the better regardless of anticipated time to complete the route. I wouldn't necessarily put the smaller rope through the rings, I would put the newer rope. An old fuzzy will have more friction than one with new dry treatment. A test pull should always be from the anticipated next anchor and while someone is still at the top anchor.

Disagree We were on Serpentine arete during the week this past August. There was another party topping out as we hit the crux. I don't think they would have heard our calls for help if we had needed it. Also there was no cell reception until we were on the summit. As an example look at Steph Abegg's accident. Her sister was very close to where she could (just by chance) get cell reception and it barely worked out for Steph, just a little bit later would have been a way worse outcome. Imagine being on the middle of Serpentine, how far away are you in time from cell reception? What if just by chance there is no one within hearing distance when you have an accident? Now you have to leave the injured person to go for help. Also the rescue organizations prefer the PLB. It does 3 things. It sends out a registered signal tied to your emergency contact numbers so rescue can find out your itinerary. It sends it's GPS coords, and it has a homing beacon. ""Rescue will almost never come till morning anyway."" Ask Steph about that one. If the accident is 3 to 4 hours before dark the PLB will be much better than relying on cell reception or someone else.

Thanks for sharing. Please don't take critique personally, this is more for the benefit of other beginners. You made it down safe, that's all that matters. EDK is the knot of choice for less chance of hanging on edges. At least one headlamp per climber. They are so light now anyway, plus if you want to shave weight some helmets will hold a light without the headband. With the rap ring just a foot from a bad looking edge move the knot till it's over the edge, you are only losing a little over a foot in distance so it doesn't matter. If there's any question a rope might not pull do a test pull for a short rope distance with the first person down while people are still at the upper anchor. Spot's and PLB's come with the instruction "Only to be activated when all other means of self-rescue have been exhausted"

""I suspect that the hardcore mtn athlete, gym jones and even crossfit is too much for a "aging" climbing athlete"" No doubt, I don't really train anymore. My training is climbing once a week more or less.

YEEEEEEE HAAAAAAA!!!!!

House was on the North face

I have an old Bibler that weighs 20 oz. Bug screen comes in handy. Also an Integral that weighs 12oz. Take a lighter bag cuz the sack adds 10 deg F. And its water proof.

None of what you hear, and only half of what you see. So if you didn't see Osama's body then why do you believe? Because the TV that is totally owned by the military industrial complex told you what to believe? Several people in the Arab world have stated that Osama died in 2002. But I guess they haven't mentioned that on CNN. What MattP said was spot on. I suppose my friends and co-workers are liars; or were brainwashed by the CIA? 80 percent of what the CIA does is present disinformation. Are you saying the CIA has never lied because you have friends and co-workers? Or because it came from the Special Ops you should believe 100 percent of what you hear? Why does the "none of what you hear" rule suddenly not apply? Because we're the "good guys" and our government would never lie to us?

"Extreme Alpinism" by Mark Twight has good chapters on diet and training. This is where I first read about gastric emptying. Something I had experience with but never saw put into words. Essentially you can perform much better at max capacity running only on energy gels/blocks. "Ice and Mixed Climbing" by Will Gadd has chapters on training

agree. They took Iraq off the market, the 2nd largest reserve on the planet, and there's still really no shortage. The shortages that drive up prices are contrived. They haven't built any new refineries in the US in years. Agree, the CIA is just the police arm of the global elite. And you can't become president without belonging to Builderberg. And that's against the constitution, you can't assemble in secret to discuss national policy. All the presidents since Kennedy have been total puppets. I think they thought they could control Kennedy but he went rouge and tried to put us back on the gold standard for which he was killed. First thing Johnson did was take us off gold and put us back on fiat money.

They are in the wilderness with no cell phone reception. They don't have a phone number for any AMGA guide The guides don't have time to answer questions over the phone, and/or they are also in the wilderness with no cell phone reception. I would guess in sheer numbers that there are just as many knowledgeable non-guide climbers as there are AMGA guides.

None of what you hear, and only half of what you see. So if you didn't see Osama's body then why do you believe? Because the TV that is totally owned by the military industrial complex told you what to believe? Several people in the Arab world have stated that Osama died in 2002. But I guess they haven't mentioned that on CNN.

The Builderbergs want a New World Order, they've had this goal since the 1800's They have already built the European Union, they are working on the North American Union. Canada, USA, Mexico. The money will be the Amero. Iraq, Libya, Iran are all obstacles to the NWO goal. They are/were rouge states who are totally resistant to assimilation. Their main source of money/power is oil. Saddam was also non compliant with the major oil companies. He constantly was dumping on the market keeping the price down. We didn't invade Iraq to steal their oil, we invaded to stop the flow. Control supply, control the price, it shot up right after we invaded and hasn't been down since. Libya's Qaddafi had amassed a huge supply of gold and was attempting to start an African currency exchange. Both Iraq and Libya were coming into the first world. Builderbergs don't want that, they want population control, especially in the first world. Iraq was the most advanced of the Arab countries with Libya not far behind. They are both now bombed back into the 3rd world. The Arab spring was real in Egypt as witnessed by the vids and photos of huge crowds, it was a popular uprising. It's total BS in Libya, nothing but a proxy war. There are no photos vids of any popular uprising in Libya because there was none.

Originally the Afghan invasion served several purposes and we know exactly what we are doing over there. 1) Re-establish the CIA's opium crop. According to the CIA's own World Fact Book, the Taliban destroyed an entire year's crop. Within the first six months of our invasion, the crop was brought back. $250 Billion drug money annual gets laundered on Wall St. 2) Attempt to open a pipeline route from the 'Stans basin to the nearest deepwater port (shortest route is through Afghan) Kharzai worked for the pipeline company. Enron was also connected to the deal. 3) Initiate the "war on terror" to bring into use the military and increase military spending. Russia had folded and they needed a new enemy, a new reason to exist and thrive. The "war on terror" is perfect because you can pick any country you need to invade for oil, declare them terrorists and invade. It's a moving target and they pick who. The first day they launched 50 cruise missiles at $1 Million each. There aren't $50 Million worth of targets in the entire country. It's just to make the warmongers rich with the expenditure of the bombs they build. "Terror" is the most exaggerated propaganda imaginable. Our "war on terror" has actually increased real terrorism, which is exactly what they want to do. Just like early in the Iraq war when they didn't want to fight. So you release a bunch of photos from a "secure" prison (Abu Ghraib) showing people being tortured and sodomized. That's all it took to make them want to fight. The official reason is still to stop 911 terrorists in Afghan, even though the patsies were from Saudi and Egypt, and all the terror training camps were and still are in Pakistan. The real terrorists are at the Builderberg meetings, they are the ones who start and stop all the modern oil wars.

The CIA painted their pictures and then framed them. These are wars for the control of oil, everything else is just the excuse. 911 was "we need a new Pearl Harbor" (to foment war) as explicitly publicly stated by PNAC

I just climbed DHLA with Riley81. I was following the 4th pitch and heard him talking. I wondered who he was talking to, turns out it was a cell call with someone at his work. I didn't care cuz he'd just led 2 hard pitches and he had me on an autolock device.

My LG got consistent calls from anywhere line of sight of an antenna. Including Luna peak, Rainier and Stuart

You guys are missing the point, this is a business phone. Before you purchase go on CNET.com and read the user reviews for the model. I had good luck with a LG 8600 (razor copy) It was the best reception phone I ever had. Got a Razr Maxx smart phone now and it's not as good. Also learn to use text. It will connect long before a call.

Riley and I did DHLA in a new personal best for me, 4 hrs 5 min. YEEEE HAAAA!!! There was a little smoke haze from the fires and the high was supposed to be 80, but there was a nice breeze on the wall and we were off by noon, so the temps were just right. This climb never fails to satisfy, so sustained at the grade and so varied.

You could sell him as a living wineskin to Dean Potter Just what we need at the crags, a half paralyzed drunken cat.

For the West ridge of Forbidden you are going to be doing the slab rock climb to the starting notch, the snow gully is long out of condition. I remember this being sustained 5.6, much more so than the actual climb. You could probably get away with aluminum crampons and a single light axe for the glacier. Which you could leave at the notch if coming back down the same way.

Yes, and pretty sure this is the ice block in question, it fits the description. Craig Luebben article on Climbing Approaching the moat for the SE face in late season would be really dangerous also. In places it's overhanging and you can't see it on the approach, you have to climb up and look over the edge. the rock was definitely steep and blank on the last rap.

Me and Riley 81 are hooked up. Now someone needs to come along and hook up with Techdiver, also I'll give him a raincheck.

Orbit Outer Space DHLA Prime Rib tomorrow Or whatever multi pitch 10d or less that has a short approach

No, those are the exact words, part of the reason I posted though, thought that part of it was funny.