Buckaroo

"The rain stayed away for so long at Index, I kind of got spoiled" I heard that I did

there's a couple of 5.9's and 5.10's that stay dry also at Little Si, enough to get a pretty good 1/2 day, or a full day if you run laps.

Lithium batteries work better in the cold and are lighter. The only choice on a serious big climb. If you worry about weight take the elastic strap off. A good helmet will have elastic cord to hold it without a headlamp strap. I won't buy a headlamp that doesn't have a removable strap (some are not removable), nor a helmet that won't hold a strapless headlamp. The Storm having 4 cell capacity is brighter than any 3 cell headlamp on the market and lasts longer on low mode. I think more manufactures should have the 4 cell option. The battery chargers all require you charge 4 batteries at once and the batteries all have to be down on charge when you charge them so if you have a 3 cell lamp you have to somehow draw down the one battery you don't use. A real pita. In addition rechargeables are so much weaker than one-use batteries you need 4 of them to equal a 3 cell setup using one-use batteries.

The storm with its 4 triple As. Lithium in the winter. Cant b beat. Rechargeables have less power and less duration. Remote bats with wires always break from flexing

In that picture I don't think you could find any rock to avoid.

What is the file size limit? It says unlimited but then there's an unlisted limit?

A good piece of writing as usual. That's some steep a** stuff.

Isn't that the definition of Cascades alpine? And Torments' not really that bad, just compare it to JBerg right across the valley.

Go fast and heavy, do a carryover with a 1000 lbs pack.

Nice shot. Looks like you tagged it in style.

make sure you have enough gear to stay warm, it's getting cold for the lows.

Nothing has a better capacity to weight ratio than the first gen Go-lites. I have two of the Breeze which are 35L to 40L and 15oz. They aren't as ergonomic as some but that's not much of a factor staying under 30lbs. They are no longer available but I have seen them used. Ray Jardine started the company and then sold it. REI has a new category of packs, "ultralight", they have about 5 models in the category. http://www.rei.com/search?query=ultralight+packs I was looking at the Osprey but they didn't have my size and it still didn't come close to the Breeze.

So you've tested this method on a roadcut where it doesn't matter if it messes up? You're now drilling two holes where a bolt would be just one. Someone should try again with pitons.

YEEEEE HAAAAAA!!!! Cragging is just training to climb in the mountains.

Oh really? The Northern Picket Traverse? The Southern Picket Traverse? The Index Traverse? The Torment Forbidden Traverse? I'm contemplating one right now (traverse), really surprised no one has seen it. It's not that technical (5.8) but it's huge and "beta-minimum" But it's totally do-able and close to town and a short approach. I've been working the beta for a couple of years, have got the approach/descent down. I have one famous traverse first ascensionist lined up but it sounds like he's going to bail. I'm heading out tomorrow night to climb Wed and Thur, (solo if I have to) but I'm going to put up a post in "partners" here shortly. This could easily get into the AAJ...

You summited and made it back in one piece, that's all that matters. If you had a lot of bushwhacking in the early pitches you were off route, especially that pic in the tree. The descent is 2 25M raps, some 3rd class down climbing and traverse, then 2 more 25M raps. A single 60 is fine unless you have to retreat from on the climb.

the Metolius Master cams are the same design as the Aliens but they are narrower 0, 1, 2, 3, 4 purple, blue, yellow, orange, red Be careful buying used Aliens, there was a recall on some of them for separating cables.

You didn't answer the main part of his question. Are the ropes dynamic properties reduced when it's stretched out from the piece that blows, thus putting more force on the next piece?

With slider aiders u dont even need daisys just a fifi. Daisys just add to the clutter

Rope solo City Park at Index LTW, use a clove hitch and a back up knot. You need about 3 sets of small nuts. Consider investing in a set of slider aiders instead of step aiders, especially if you are going to do a lot of aiding, like Town Crier or Salathe/The Nose.

Nice TR I used to race bikes. You never go anywhere without a patch kit, small tool kit, extra innertube, and pump.

Time, yes, that was a way late start for this climb with this team, it left no margin for error. Generally the earlier start the better regardless of anticipated time to complete the route. I wouldn't necessarily put the smaller rope through the rings, I would put the newer rope. An old fuzzy will have more friction than one with new dry treatment. A test pull should always be from the anticipated next anchor and while someone is still at the top anchor.

Disagree We were on Serpentine arete during the week this past August. There was another party topping out as we hit the crux. I don't think they would have heard our calls for help if we had needed it. Also there was no cell reception until we were on the summit. As an example look at Steph Abegg's accident. Her sister was very close to where she could (just by chance) get cell reception and it barely worked out for Steph, just a little bit later would have been a way worse outcome. Imagine being on the middle of Serpentine, how far away are you in time from cell reception? What if just by chance there is no one within hearing distance when you have an accident? Now you have to leave the injured person to go for help. Also the rescue organizations prefer the PLB. It does 3 things. It sends out a registered signal tied to your emergency contact numbers so rescue can find out your itinerary. It sends it's GPS coords, and it has a homing beacon. ""Rescue will almost never come till morning anyway."" Ask Steph about that one. If the accident is 3 to 4 hours before dark the PLB will be much better than relying on cell reception or someone else.

Thanks for sharing. Please don't take critique personally, this is more for the benefit of other beginners. You made it down safe, that's all that matters. EDK is the knot of choice for less chance of hanging on edges. At least one headlamp per climber. They are so light now anyway, plus if you want to shave weight some helmets will hold a light without the headband. With the rap ring just a foot from a bad looking edge move the knot till it's over the edge, you are only losing a little over a foot in distance so it doesn't matter. If there's any question a rope might not pull do a test pull for a short rope distance with the first person down while people are still at the upper anchor. Spot's and PLB's come with the instruction "Only to be activated when all other means of self-rescue have been exhausted"

""I suspect that the hardcore mtn athlete, gym jones and even crossfit is too much for a "aging" climbing athlete"" No doubt, I don't really train anymore. My training is climbing once a week more or less.