Buckaroo

they seem hyped, the only advantage they have over normal NiMH is a low storage discharge rate, otherwise they are the same.

"The rain stayed away for so long at Index, I kind of got spoiled" I heard that I did

there's a couple of 5.9's and 5.10's that stay dry also at Little Si, enough to get a pretty good 1/2 day, or a full day if you run laps.

Lithium batteries work better in the cold and are lighter. The only choice on a serious big climb. If you worry about weight take the elastic strap off. A good helmet will have elastic cord to hold it without a headlamp strap. I won't buy a headlamp that doesn't have a removable strap (some are not removable), nor a helmet that won't hold a strapless headlamp. The Storm having 4 cell capacity is brighter than any 3 cell headlamp on the market and lasts longer on low mode. I think more manufactures should have the 4 cell option. The battery chargers all require you charge 4 batteries at once and the batteries all have to be down on charge when you charge them so if you have a 3 cell lamp you have to somehow draw down the one battery you don't use. A real pita. In addition rechargeables are so much weaker than one-use batteries you need 4 of them to equal a 3 cell setup using one-use batteries.

The storm with its 4 triple As. Lithium in the winter. Cant b beat. Rechargeables have less power and less duration. Remote bats with wires always break from flexing

In that picture I don't think you could find any rock to avoid.

What is the file size limit? It says unlimited but then there's an unlisted limit?

A good piece of writing as usual. That's some steep a** stuff.

he's the OP, replying that he doesn't want to trade for more gear.

That's a BD X-15. The 2nd version with a rubber coated carbon-fiber shaft. Ahead of it's time, the first carbon fiber shaft tool. Puts more of the weight in the head for a better swing. The bolt head has a slot so you can tighten it in the field with the pick of your other tool. The raised part of the pic above the head is so you can drive it with another hammer. Originally sold for over $200, shows you the depreciation of obsolescence. Still a good tool, I've soloed WI5 with these. The pick is interchangeable across a large range of year/models and includes Alpine, Alaska, and Banana picks (Banana is the one in the pic).

Isn't that the definition of Cascades alpine? And Torments' not really that bad, just compare it to JBerg right across the valley.

Go fast and heavy, do a carryover with a 1000 lbs pack.

Nice shot. Looks like you tagged it in style.

make sure you have enough gear to stay warm, it's getting cold for the lows.

Nothing has a better capacity to weight ratio than the first gen Go-lites. I have two of the Breeze which are 35L to 40L and 15oz. They aren't as ergonomic as some but that's not much of a factor staying under 30lbs. They are no longer available but I have seen them used. Ray Jardine started the company and then sold it. REI has a new category of packs, "ultralight", they have about 5 models in the category. http://www.rei.com/search?query=ultralight+packs I was looking at the Osprey but they didn't have my size and it still didn't come close to the Breeze.

So you've tested this method on a roadcut where it doesn't matter if it messes up? You're now drilling two holes where a bolt would be just one. Someone should try again with pitons.

YEEEEE HAAAAAA!!!! Cragging is just training to climb in the mountains.

Oh really? The Northern Picket Traverse? The Southern Picket Traverse? The Index Traverse? The Torment Forbidden Traverse? I'm contemplating one right now (traverse), really surprised no one has seen it. It's not that technical (5.8) but it's huge and "beta-minimum" But it's totally do-able and close to town and a short approach. I've been working the beta for a couple of years, have got the approach/descent down. I have one famous traverse first ascensionist lined up but it sounds like he's going to bail. I'm heading out tomorrow night to climb Wed and Thur, (solo if I have to) but I'm going to put up a post in "partners" here shortly. This could easily get into the AAJ...

You summited and made it back in one piece, that's all that matters. If you had a lot of bushwhacking in the early pitches you were off route, especially that pic in the tree. The descent is 2 25M raps, some 3rd class down climbing and traverse, then 2 more 25M raps. A single 60 is fine unless you have to retreat from on the climb.

the Metolius Master cams are the same design as the Aliens but they are narrower 0, 1, 2, 3, 4 purple, blue, yellow, orange, red Be careful buying used Aliens, there was a recall on some of them for separating cables.

You didn't answer the main part of his question. Are the ropes dynamic properties reduced when it's stretched out from the piece that blows, thus putting more force on the next piece?

With slider aiders u dont even need daisys just a fifi. Daisys just add to the clutter

Rope solo City Park at Index LTW, use a clove hitch and a back up knot. You need about 3 sets of small nuts. Consider investing in a set of slider aiders instead of step aiders, especially if you are going to do a lot of aiding, like Town Crier or Salathe/The Nose.

White Spider Climbing in Nodth America Thanks

Nice TR I used to race bikes. You never go anywhere without a patch kit, small tool kit, extra innertube, and pump.