Dr_Flash_Amazing

Here's to your impending skin cancer, capitalist stooge. Hope you can sell your ice tools before the shit disappears for good.

Dwayner?

Kinda funny how Lawson's route development runs the gamut from super well-bolted, fastidiously cleaned clipups (some unapologetically chipped) to chosspile runout horrorfests with no bolts and no redeeming qualities. Anyone so outspoken and controversial should take up residence here at the cc.

*BZZZZT!* ERROR! ERROR! DOES NOT COMPUTE! *NNNRRRRRT!*

Autographed Special Edition Dr. Flash Amazing Chain Reaction Beta Map T-shirt with embroidered AmazingCo, Inc. logo on the left sleeve, plus the Dr. Flash Amazing 'Drink Coffee and Destroy'* travel mug and the AmazingCo, Inc. Environmental Bureau canvas tote bag with attractive 'Recycle or Fuck Off' logo in fetching earth tones. * stolen from the Bouncing Souls -- sorry

Humble, polite, friendly, encouraging, intelligent, articulate, multitalented, motivated, successful ... by all accounts, a lousy representation of most women climbers, and a poor role-model to boot. Right.

The one called Amazing, which is to say our very own Dr. Flash, has never willingly taken time off from the Great Sport. There was the few months DFA took off after moving back home from Bend when there was no one to climb with, which was a major drag and caused the Doctor to be as close as he's ever been to "fat". Then there have been various short amounts of time off (usually a week to a month, give or take) for some tennis elbow, some tendon pulley aggravation, etc. And then there was the ~year off for the wrecked shoulder and ensuing surgery/recovery. Were it not for those unfortunate circumstances, though? Shit, wouldn't give this sport up for nothin', not at this point, anyway. It just feels so ... mmmm, right, you know what the Doc's sayin'? Oh, yeah, you know what the DFA is talkin' about. Tie in and pull down, baby. Word.

You checked the forecast for this weekend, holmes? Bring yer friggin' snowsuit, is all.

***DINGDINGDINGDINGDINGDINGDING!***

How you gonna send Chain Reaction if yer at Skaha? Go south, young man.

This is a family website, you sick demented fuck. Keep your stickyface S&M fantasies to yourself!

Ditto the advice for the ext/int rotation exercises (lay on your side and use a relatively light weight if you don't have Therabands or the like). Pushups are good, too. And stretches. Stretching out your lats is important for helping your shoulders move how they were meant to before your back muscles got all huge and apish from climbing. A great thing you can do posture-wise is try to straighten up your upper back. If you're like most climbers, you're all hunched forward, which rolls your shoulders forward. If you stand sideways to a mirror, you can see this. If you look in the mirror as you slowly straighten up, you'll see a point at which your shoulders kind of roll back. Thissiz a much healthier position for them to be in, and keeps the blood flowing to the rotator cuff better. Speaking of that, you should also watch how you position yoru arms in bed. Having the injured arm lifted up over your head (or resting your head on your arm in a similar position) will really aggravate the impingement AND reduce the blood flow to that area. Be patient, too. Shoulders are slow to heal and easy to bugger up, so don't blow it by pushing too hard too soon, eh? Good luck!

Smith Rock. Fine weather, if perhaps a bit on the hot side. DFA is in flail mode lately and has nothing to boast about. The Mrs. is making good headway on her proj', which will be her hardest send yet when she puts it all together. Next weekend, expect more project progress and hopefully a turnaround in DFA's Fall Slump.

How come trad climbs always got long approaches? Sport routes be up-front-parking-escalator-approach easy to get to, trad routes always Bataan Death March slogathon. What gives?

This thread has a decidedly "gay" ambience. Anyone else picking up on that?

Or why not post some things about, y'know, trad climbing in there? Or just not quibble about insignificant semantic minutiae?

Oh, Lordy, speaking of beating the crowds; go check out the Kolob Canyon part of Zion (aka the North part of the park)! A nice departure from the tourist hell of the main park, and easily as spectacular.

Ditto on Bryce looking sort of repetetive, although consistently fascinating. After stopping at the 10th pullout or so, them mudpiles start lookin' mighty similar. When in Zion, most certainly do the Hidden Canyon hike. It starts up the trail at the Weeping Wall (don't worry; 10,000 tourists may be standing there clicking pictures while another 3,000 hike the .25 mile up to the Weeping Wall, but as soon as you pass them, you'll likely have the place all to yourself). It also starts on pavement a-la Angel's Landing, but cuts off onto sandy switchbacks after climbing for a while. Then you go a ways on a path carved into the sandstone, with nice exposure, which winds around to the mouth of the canyon, which is small and spectacular, featuring some groovy little water pockets/slime pools, and lots of crazy-looking rock. There's also a mini-arch a ways back, which is sorta neat. Great views from the mouth of the canyon, too. Checkitout.

Any of you bowline (or DBBB or bowline w/yos. fin. or whatever variant) users notice a bit of abrasion on your rope where it runs into the knot (i.e. where the rabbit's path goes around the tree trunk, for lack of a better explanation)? DFA was tyin' in this weekend with his trusty DBBB, and noticed a bit of abraded rope over about a 6-8" area around where the rabbit goes 'round the tree. Similar experience? Comments? Criticism? Indignant rage and death threats?

Perhaps Big Boss Man ... not too tall (or committing!), tops out. The routes up at Honeycomb Wall; short, and they top out, although you're starting on a ledge about 40' up, so if you blow the bouldery crux starts, well; ouch.

Please phrase your replies in the form of nice haiku, or you're hella dumb! The five-seven-five; that's what it's all about, yo! Mad haiku ruckus! Syllabic riot, shots fir'd in correct meter; best run for cover!

Forced to !

Why'd they Pho'Shop the rope out but not the harness? Or is the resolution just shitty and you can't see the cord? Good shot, though. That's a very unusual angle. Looks like it was taken from the top of the Phoenix (the toilet, not the buttress).

TRUE!

Fuck around with heroin, you're bound to hit bottom hard sooner or later.