Dr_Flash_Amazing

[double post deleted]

Sluggin' it out on the GDG!

Two words: slacklining is for fuckin' hippies. For real, though, slacklining will probably give you really great balance ... for slacklining. If you want to hone your climberly balance, go climbing. Aside from Dean Potter, no one who ever spent their time slacklining ever amounted to anything as a climber. No one. And what kind of person is Dean Potter? That's right. HIPPIE.

Departing for B__'s to drink jinnantonix in t-minus 2ish hours, thence to the aforementioned Rock vs. Bush tour show. If sub-two-minute blasts of scathing (or sometimes sophomoric -- or both) humor propelled by pogo-punk perfection counts as noodling, then yeah, NOFX noodles. If you're talking about space jam freakouts, consider the following opening lines from their tune "Always Hate Hippies": "You are a hippie, you smell like skunk I'm your arch enemy, a middle class street punk!" Toss in a little morose despair from the Alkaline Trio and some Jello Biafra pontification, and you're good to go!

Don't forget to clear some space on your floor. Erik will take care of clearing space in your fridge. The freeloading hippie ...

Sorry to distract from the thrilling topic of battery life, but, getting back to sound quality, isn't the iPod the only portable that plays back AIFF files, or whatever the format is that's the same as it is on a CD? Which is to say (i.e., i.e.) you get CD quality 'cause it ain't compressed? Also, Mr. Joshguy mentioned that, when plugging a player into the preamp input on his car stereo, he could only turn the iPod up to ca. 75% before clipping. Correct DFA if he's wrong (ha, like that'd happen ), but shouldn't you be using the volume control on the stereo, not the player? Or are we confused here?

That IS a great way to teach people to clip, and it makes good sense. But it seems like lotsa times the bolts aren't placed in such a way as to be clipped from the waist. What to do, what to do?! Must bite, must bite. Gnaw gnaw gnaw gnaw gnaw.

Y'know, that's kind of inspiring. F'real. Nicely put, lad. We should all be so driven.

Aren't you a little young to be having the specter of senility banging around in your attic, sir?

The guy who wrote the article on Prolo and Meso therapies in the latest RockandIce also has a thing on general injury maintenance, which is located HERE (CLICKETY CLICK). There are a couple of articles, which were informative. He recommends Bromelain as an anti-inflammatory, which DFA has had excellent success with as well. It is highly advisable that you research Bromelain thoroughly before just gulping it down though, as there is some practical and safety-related information out there. Try the PDR online (pdr.com or something? It's the Physician's Desk Reference, and it's searchable, very useful; lists drug interactions and general info). Good luck; hopefully the thang heals up!

It seems sort of silly to retire it strictly because of age, unless it's all brittle or faded white or something. But as stated before, if it worries you, no question; 30-50 bucks is nothing for some peace of mind. DFA has historically gotten around 3-4 years out of harnesses, with the critical wear usually at the tie-in points, specifically the leg loop area, but at the waist as well. Of course, Dr. Flash Amazing's a hangdogger, so that's the likely spot. If you're an offwidth thrasher or something, maybe the waist belt webbing is more likely to go. Anyways, if it doesn't show any obvious signs of deterioration and you're not freaked out by it, keep using it. Unless it's some mauve J-Rat thing with neon accents, in which case it's time to upgrade ASAP. Try one of Arc'Teryx's laminated jobbies; they're great stuff.

Yeah, it seems like unless yer at some kooky strength or endurance plateau where you need to hit the campus board or weights or go jogging to break through, you're really best off just doin' more cragging. Plus that climbing shit is fun anyhow.

V12 ... what is V12? This grade is so hard as to be meaningless, at least to this small and humble-type Doctor. Who knows? And is there such a thing as a non-freak-strong-dependent V12? Seems like most, if not all bouldering kind of funnels into the strong-bad category after a while. Look at all the hard shit at Joe's, or the Buttermilks or something. Any of those problems seem to not require savage burlosity? Exactly.

"Rudy ... a message to you, Rudy a message to you, Rudy stop your messin' around (ah-ahhhh AH) time you straighten right out (ah-ahhhh AH) betta think of your future (ah-ahhhh AH) else you wind up in jail ah-ahhh AH RUDY! a message to you, Rudy [etc. etc., trombone solo, etc.]"

Ah, on a personal sort of note related to this here topic (look, DFA is drinking some Tecates while the Missus is out, and his verbiage is resultantly beery, so do forgive, eh?), Mr. Dr. Flash Amazing was flailing amazingly on said Go Dog route a couple weeks ago or so, and the rangerman didst approach. Came up to the fence by them easier routes below, he did, approaching from the Chain Reactionareteroute. The ranger hisveryownself did say that it was OK to be up there, provided one approached from the trail (such as it is) over by the Prophet Wall. Also, it was implied and even inferred prior to the ranger's arrival that maybe not having the entire party parked at the base of Go Dog Spire or whatever the fuck you wants to call it would be a wise 'n' responsible course of action, from a general responsibility and erosion mitigation type of standpoint. Hope the fuckin' temps cool off over there, tell you what ...

1. This happened at the (old) PRG a while back, according to much-maligned Allman Bros. fan/former second-in-command Martin (since bound for Texas or something). Anyway, some new person (like, a "newbie" or how you say this) was maybe going to clip, and got the rope in their mouth, and maybe decided to make one more move or some such nonsense, and skittery-sketched right off the route, extracting sus dientes in the process. So it ain't unheard of. 2. How did you (Squidpersonage) normally clip without putting the rope in your toofuses? The clip-'em-up-minded Dr. Flash Amazing, while being clever to the point of painful geniusness, can't conceive of an equivalently convenient means of holding onto the rope while reeling in that extra bit of slack to clip. Hmmm?

"THE VISION IS A NEW WORLD ORDER ... THE VISION IS A NEW WORLD ORDER ... THE VISION IS A NEW WORLD ORDER ... come along and tell your sister and your brother!"

Oops. So, it appears that Dr. Flash Amazing has made, like, a mistake thingy. Apparently, the other therapy (i.e. not prolo-) is called mesotherapy, not myotherapy. That might make for a more informative investigation. From the article, it sounds more like a short-term ameliorative for symptoms, vs. prolo's more healing-focused approach. Hmmm ...

Fuckin' A; just off work and wrappin' up a long, cranky, sleepy week, and lookin' forward to a day at the Park tomorrow. In honor of that to which DFA looks forward, Hot Water Music's 'Never Ender' is taking a spin. Something about those songs just evokes countryside whizzing by the windows, the smell of chalk and rope and aluminum on your hands, that restful just-finished-a-good-climbing-day feeling. And, despite being a collection of singles, b-sides, compilation tracks, and unreleased material spanning HWM's career, it stands quite solidly on its own. Oh, and it's got bitchin' cover art and liner notes. ROCK.

At the rate the number of trad climbers at Smith seems to be increasing lately, it's probably just a matter of time before someone shows up in similar attire and accoutrements.

Apparently that one guy, that good climber -- what's his name? -- Shawarma or something? Anyway, apparently he was on it back when he came to Smith to send everything. It's gotta be bad news if it's too hard for that kid. Or maybe the route just sucks?

Mr. Caldwell (Tommy, that is -- not related to Ian, by the way) was rumored to have been working on the 5.15 proj to the right of Scarface earlier in the week, although no draws were on it over the weekend. Apparently there are no holds on it, either, at least none you can see from the ground. Sickasfuck!

Make that Common Rider, 'This Is Unity Music' (with a few other tracks thrown in for good measure). This is truly a classic album, really different from their first. It's got smart lyrics, it's definitely punk rock, with some more inventive ska stylings here and there, some almost 80's rock influences in evidence, and lotsa pop sensibility. That's "pop sensibility" in a catchy tunes and hooks kinda way, not like some Top 40 power-pop band who thinks they play "punk rock" because they have distortion boxes and Blink 182 t-shirts (just turn on the radio, you'll probably hear one of these bands within five minutes). Jesse Michaels is a genius!

As of ~10 minutes ago, Anti-Flag's 'The Terror State' ("fuck the flag and FUCK YOU!"). Earlier, Screeching Weasel's 'Televisioncitydream' and Fugazi's 'The Argument'. It's looking like 'Run Screaming' by Slow Gherkin will be up next, because, hey, why not?

Except when it is, eh? And, for the record, people are advised not to argue with Jonah, or he'll take your ass to court. As head legal counsel for AmazingCo, Inc., Jonah has consistently demonstrated a pit bull tenacity, which, coupled with his can't-lose attitude and penchant for packing heat in his briefcase, has resulted in an undefeated record in various courts from city to Supreme.