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Dr_Flash_Amazing

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Everything posted by Dr_Flash_Amazing

  1. It's commonly accepted that these are the standard techniques for succeeding on climbs at or above one's limit, so it's understood that if someone says they climbed something "hard" (for them--be it 5.6 or 5.14), the assumption is that they had to work at it first. Otherwise, the ascensionist probably onsighted or flashed the route, and would no doubt say so. Your stupidly rigid standards for success on a hard climb would invalidate at least 99% of all standard-setting climbs of the last 20 years (30 years? 50 years?), and reflects a probable lack of experience on your part attempting and climbing hard routes. Working a route on TR or via relentless dogging, french-freeing, or rappel inspection has got nothing to do with using a step-ladder to drop a ball through a hoop.
  2. Visited the previously very elusive Circuit bouldering gym. Or maybe it was failing to send even a single 5.12 at Maple. Or hanging, taking, and winching 75 or so times on Aggro Monkey (on toprope, no less) while Katie Brown and Sonnie Trotter looked on... No, no, no. It was the AJK, hands down. Awesome.
  3. Looks like he's going for the full twisting punch to the throat and preparing to follow up with the eye poke! DAAAAHHHHH!!!
  4. No, Dru's point is giant squidism; it's climbing that has no point.
  5. Stinging critique of Cobra leadership from the peanut gallery! What will the shiny-faced figurehead of the Cobra organization do to minimize the PR damage?
  6. Fucking up shit with some kind of sonic destructo-beam, eh? Classic technique; four stars!
  7. Unless... Ugh.
  8. That place is the killer shit, although you should skip the slab routes (no offense, but slabs are ), and go directly to the route in the third pic, the awesome Namaste (.12a, with no move harder than 10+ or so, stacked up continuously for 120 feet. Incredible route; you'll be amazed at how you can fall off of full-hand buckets!).
  9. Bouldering: Cuttingfuckingedge Pope: still tube socks and tube chocks and rube on the rocks after all these years. Here's to the next proud 5.8+ send, Pope-in' Fresh!
  10. Y'know, since Crawdad is a full-blown private sport park, they probably have all the route info on hand. In fact, isn't that the place where they had a brass plaque with the route name and rating on it at the base of each climb? Ahhh, sport heaven.
  11. In short: shut up and send. (If you read between the lines, you'll also pick up on "and have a beer and some tacos afterwards.")
  12. Dr. Flash Amazing has the Falcon book for Utah, which includes all that St. George stuff, including Crawdad, Chukwalla, etc. There's a lot more down there, too, scattered around within about a half-hour radius of St. George.
  13. Witness the latest Hot Flashes in Climbing: http://www.climbing.com/news/ In less than two weeks, a fuggin' tsunami of benchmark radness...chix OS-ing 13+ and sending .14a, minors sending .14+, Caldwells tearing the Valley a new one, Action Directe action...best to look before you eat lunch, so's you don't toss your cookies!
  14. Dr. Flash Amazing here, with a friendly reminder that the Doctor clocks dough like Trump uses AquaNet. AmazingCo, Inc. owns all y'all, so you better recognize.
  15. Hayduke?
  16. A belated "discovery" of Mission of Burma was well worth it. Pretty multifaceted stuff; some of it's kind of trippy, some of it sounds like the Circle Jerks, and Talking Heads, and Fugazi, but it works. Interesting stuff. And those Ramones are a real fun-times kick in the pants. Latest acquisition: Rocket to Russia. There's no stoppin' the cretins from hoppin'! Too bad that misanthrope Johnny's the only one left, what with Tommy out of the band long ago, and the various replacement members all faker than naugahyde. Using Blitzkrieg Bop to sell mobile phones...ugh!
  17. Ah, yes, refreshing. It's been, what, hours since your last slobberingly fellatory Zappa reference? Sheik Yerbouti for joy!
  18. "Just going to remove some of this beam and a few joists under here; shouldn't be a problem!"
  19. Shut up before you get your ass kicked, pansy pacifist wussface nanny-stater pinko!
  20. Steady Diet is kind of anomalous somehow...it could just be the production, who knows, but it seems kind of spare and harsh and angular; less of a groove to a lot of it. You'd certainly not be disappointed with In on the Kill Taker, though. That baby rocks like only Fugazi can rock, artful and angry and complex. A lot of the later stuff is "experimental" in one way or another, but, like a lot of good artful things, its initial inaccessibility yields rewarding listening over the long term, and it all remains genuine. Once the shitty Northwest weather kicks in, you ought to pick up The Argument. It has a certain quality that seems to work well with gray skies and rain, and it's a truly fantastic album that stands on its own and has a funny way of staying in the CD spinner or on the turntable.
  21. You can't be serious. You would dismiss the bleakness of Steady Diet of Nothing? The pounding momentum of In on the Kill Taker? The combined assault of concise rockers and mathy feedback explorations of Red Medicine? The refined, almost pop gems of End Hits? Surely not the keystone acheivement of The Argument, masterfully combining all of the above, along with an extra drummer, and cellos, for heaven's sake (and the Furniture EP was a nice bonus, too!). Seems awfully curmudgeonly to truncate such a rich discography.
  22. If we're going into punky territory, we're going to have to go to Gainesville, from whence Hot Water Music have released just under one album per year for the past ten years, each an expansion from the last. Not to mention constant touring on top of that. That's a fucking track record right there. Although they are currently on hiatus. See also: The Draft. Of course, it's really more post-punk territory, which can't be entered without bowing before the mighty Fugazi, whose catalog stands as a monument to originality, consistency, and commitment to the ideals mouthed by, but rarely embodied by, a thousand other "punk" outfits.
  23. What, like 150 years instead of 100? Shit, fuel up the Hummer and take a victory lap around the mall parking lot!
  24. Astute, and correct. There are some fun lines there, but most of the stuff over 5.11 is a glue- and/or chip-job, quite unnecessarily.
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