matt_warfield

I've not done either of the routes you mentioned, PP, so must restrict my comments to other routes. I have a hunch that Dane knows quite well how hard most of the trad routes at Frenchman's are.

I think the ratings at Middle East are solid. Some of the FA folks in that era didn't have a good handle on the difficulty of their climbs (i.e. Human Sacrifice was originally 11b I think). But that doesn't mean the current ratings are soft, just some of the original ones. In any event, when people gripe about bad rock, I ask them if they've been to Middle East as the rock is superb and solid for the most part.

Party in Your Pants George and Martha Jigsaw Direct Direct Human Sacrifice Psychogenic Fugue Thus Far

Well, it won't end here as I think Burdo is going to put out a comprehensive North Bend guide soon. The Bruce guide is in the same format as Exit 38: photo topo's (with some confusion due to foreshortening and use of wide angle), concise beta, and updated ratings. Little Si was way out of date in other books and this guide will be popular.

Thanks Dane for filling out the list a little better. One additional note: 5.10 slabbing is plenty hard and completing the 5.10's on this list (with the usual number of Leavenworth stiff ratings) might reduce the need to find 5.11's. Besides, at that point it will be time to experience the pleasures of leading slab.

At Peshastin, do the first pitch of Potholes and then TR Potholes direct Direct and Washboards. Also dp W. Face of Grand Central and TR the slab routes under the anchor. And you can TR some of the Austrian Slab routes I think. In Icicle, forget about TR and lead the well protected Condorphamine bolted slabby route.

I was thinking more about Givler's as being a multipitch and a bit much, but R&D sounds great. You just want to be able to concentrate on gear organization and placement with relatively easy climbing.

Look at the 2 crack routes on the upper buttress at Mountie's Dome and Gibson's Crack around to the right. Also the 5.6ish crack at Barney's Rubble and the short cracks at Roto Wall. Save Givler's and other multipitch outings for a more seasoned leader. The first leads need to be short and way under the climber's standard.

I did this route a number of years back and recall the slab to be sandbag 5.6, a little runout and with potential for rubble from the ledge above- not a good choice for fledgling 5.6 leaders. But a route it is and therefore it should have a good bolt.

Good suggestions from AlpineK. Going during the week for Keyhole on Longs reduces the body count or start late (like 6:00 a.m.) and go fast to still summit by noon. For a more lonely experience, do a scramble route on Longs. From Glacier Gorge (access to Spearhead and Chiefshead) you can scramble Longs Pk. or Spearhead and get awesome views.

Scare up a partner or go to the rock and hitchhike with a party and do the E. face of the Third Flatiron. It's mostly 4th class with some low fifth class here and there, including a slightly runout summit pitch of 5.4. It is an awesome climb at the grade. For alpine, go to Rocky Mountain National Park and do the Keyhole route on Longs Peak. It's mostly hiking but has sections of Class 3 and is a safe solo. Plan to summit by noon to avoid lightning and acclimate for a 14,000' peak. Have fun. For route info, go to the mother of all climbing shops: Neptune Mountaineering.

Sounds like elbow tendinitis. Mine hurt the worst when using my hands with the elbow bent. Shaking hands made me grimace. You'll have to rest it and try hard not to aggravate it in everyday life (i.e. try 12 oz. brews instead for awhile ) The surgeon probably will give you anti-inflammatories but if you don't get relief consider cortisone. But you have to rest it or it will get worse and perhaps chronic. Take care of it now and you should be climbing fine this summer. Good luck.

Roger, Almost all of the climbs are 100 ft. or less in length. Sunshine Wall does have some of the longest climbs, however, and care must be taken in rappelling, especially with shorter ropes- knotting the ends together is definitely called for. It is also a very busy area on weekends and it can be difficult to concentrate and communicate.

That's not the first time I've heard that today. Rather than cast aspersions on Vantage (or any other area), let us remind ourselves that such accidents can happen anywhere and 100% adherence to safe climbing principles is mandatory at any area. My condolences to those affected.

From Granite Mountain, Arizona: Magnolia Thunder Pussy (involves chimneying out a hanging flake system with a gaping maw) Beaver Cleaver (runout face directly above a knife edge buttress top) Granite Jungle (awkward squeeze chimney) The area has many other excellent route names. Hats off to first ascent teams that put thought and creativity into their route names.

Clean cheap and basic motel in Redmond is The Hub and it's on the north side of town as well. I heard a rumor that some climbers stay there.

Granite Mountain just out of Prescott should be warm enough on sunny days in February and offers awesome multipitch trad climbing. Expect stiff ratings and great granite. If it's cold stay closer to Phoenix.

I forgot a couple other things: I hung out with Jack Tackle in Bozeman MT before he became famous. I saw Fred Beckey napping twice at Peshastin Pinnacles and once someplace else. I got beat a while back at a climbing comp by Stimson Bullitt, recently profiled by the Times in an article on aging (I think he's 84), but I figure I'll bide my time and get him eventually.....

Who is "it ehmmic"?

Yeah I agree, it's no biggie, and it's not like that stuff never happens in the hetero world.....just not as often for guys

Well, I worked at the Base Camp ca. 1976-1978. Prescott was on the circuit for a lot of good climbers looking for good weather in the Spring and Fall at the time. Granite Mountain was a classic sandbag area that took the measure of many a hardman expecting to waltz up the classics on their first trip. But it ain't no northwest- classic high desert location.

Yeah, I was at Whistler a couple of years back during this event. Those dudes know how to party. I begged the lady I was with not to leave me alone at happy hour- I was afraid of getting hit on incessantly! But I wouldn't let it keep me from visiting an area. Think "celebrate diversity"!

I was renting a house from a local in Prescott, Arizona in the 70's and got a knock on the door one evening. A climber and his girlfriend were used to grabbing a shower there from time to time and asked the same favor of me. It was Ed Webster on one of his "bag all of the 5.11 first ascents" sojourns to Granite Mountain. A nice guy. Scott Baxter (local climbing legend of the southwest) used to crash at my house in Prescott on climbing trips to Granite Mountain. Chatted with Jim Sandford just days after his first ascent of "Pulse", the first 5.14a in Canada. He said his hands were numb as he reached the anchors.

The poor blood flow means antiinflammatories don't work very well and it also means that healing takes much longer than for muscles. Ice is often talked about but heat, massage, and rest are what's going to heal things. And the big problem with going back at it too early is that the tendons might not tell you they've been further injured until the next day or later even though you just pulled down like a mutha. Good luck.

I have spent years getting to know my tendons and agree with RuMR. Tendons heal very slowly and going back to climbing too quickly will just buy you a longer injury......and tendons can be injured a looooong time. Put the "proj" on hold until spring.