matt_warfield

Dear God, Wasn't there an even higher power that could have advised you that the top two pitches (Gendarme and off width above) are the best on the route? Or that glacial crossing and mandatory snow/scree is part of the Cascade experience? And multiple days. God has ordained it. And I recently met a dude who claims he is Jesus reincarnated. One of you is full of it. My bet is both.

Any fall with simulclimbing could be catastrophic regardless of gear. That said you missed a couple of money pitches up and beyond the Gendarme. It makes any descent down the Cascadian worth it.

Thanks for the TR and beta on one of the Prow dest walls in a very proud area.

Thanks for the TR. Being a few hours off of your prediction is shy of the day or two that many encounter in the Cascades.

I was going to read a novel this afternoon but replaced it with this TR. And it has pictures. I am glad I switched. Bad weather in tents stimulates the thought process, eh? And geographically Denali is higher than it looks because the earth is an oblate spheroid. Plus its relief is greater than many higher mountains from the start. These are facts that will not attract a date at your next party most likely. Anyway, great TR and thanks.

LMS is great. But an alternative is to drive to Seattle to Pro Mountain Sports or Marmot OR do Mountain Gear in Spokane (close to same distance) or just do online from Mountain Gear or other. I had a friend who tried two pairs of rock shoes on and decided to take one of each due to slightly different fit on each foot. That is one of the few things that doesn't happen on the interweb. Priorites are 1) buy local then 2) buy smart

Try the link. Not available for me.

I agree with ivan but its NOT just Index and its NOT just climbers. Every serious outdoors person has to have a trailhead car that they can live without or can repair or just get a ride. The challenge of overcoming the parking issue by crafty parking and walking is small compared to what we do in climbing in general. How far from Index town to the parking area? You can do it! We all also take on financial challenges with gear, travel, beer, and other fun and frivolity in climbing parking your car and leaving gear is a risk. Incorporate that into your budget because it will happen from time to time. I have had windows broken, stereos stolen, gear stolen, and etc. I had a stereo stolen the same day I replaced it. None of this happened at Index. This shit happens all over the place worldwide. Deal with it. And I climbed a bunch at Granite Mountain in Arizona and never had anything stolen. Because it is a popular trailhead (many eyes), several mile hike in, and the way to the climbing site is not popular. But a Right Guard commercial was filmed there in the late 70s when they closed things down for commercial purposes. And two popular climbs are Magnolia Thunder Pussy and Beaver Cleaver (above a sharp arête). AZ is really no different than many other areas. Shit happens. Parking is always secure at the malls. And your valuables are also safe when wearing a fanny pack while strolling the mall.

I will fill it out. But hear this first: - We love the outdoors - We like to pull on things. No offense to soccer but climbers define "pitch" differently, protect their brains, and use their hands. A lot. And mostly work within 5 ft. of ground zero whereas climbers add a few zeros to that figure. We do get emotional with injuries now and then, like in soccer, but there are no referees out there climbing. Jut the cold cool world of friends and climbing witnesses. Good luck with your study which could be similar to one done on herding cats.

They forgot kegels to prepare for your next puckerfest.

- They do not distinguish between "safe" climbing like sport with closely spaced bolts and "dangerous" climbing like Everest. Trying to explain the sport is a waste of time and will just increase your blood pressure (which could also raise your premium). - I experienced 50-100% premium increase with full disclosure. - True dat on the 2 yr. goal. - Ethically challenged can always claim they started climbing soon after getting the policy.

I have carpal tunnel syndrome which has long term nerve effects. Climbing hasn't helped. Fingertip nerves are prone to long term damage from lots of sources. My fingertips are numb right now due to typing. I hope you recover quickly. I also have numb toes and my toenails don't grow anymore thanks to my Miuras and 40 yrs. of foot abuse.

Leaving CO to find rock climbing is a travesty. CO has more rock of all types than a human can comprehend. If you want alpine rock go to RMNP and save the flight cost for beer. A WA trip should focus on alpine as has been suggested. It is our claim to fame. Plus CO and WA have something else in common that grows and is legal. If you go to WA buy one of the Select Guides and it will save some time. A lot of time.

Unless you like suffering in snow/ice the N. Cascades can be a bitch. Go to Bishop CA and climb dry rock in the Sierras. Buy Crofts book on the area, come home with a big tan and an even bigger smile. But then I am a rock snob. But I don't mind treading gently on snow/ice on the way to Nirvana. By the way Owens River Gorge is there plus extensive bouldering for "rest" days. And hot springs and few tourons!

Duly noted Feck.

Goats? Ticks are probably included for free.

April in Seattle is a piss poor time to bring Hawaii up. Haters will come out of the woodwork. Check Alex Honnold's setup. A pic is on the iterweb somewhere. Hasn't had an address in years.

Good point Off. I detected some tongue in cheek there. But would somebody resurrect the Rainier speed debate? It took many many pages on this site and lots of laughs ensued and enemies made. The newcomers need to know this shit. Chad Kellogg vs. bullshitter from OR. Epic stuff.

I assume you are goading us on because N. America can represent in speed ascents. Numerous examples exist.

My favorite WA areas are Squamish amd Smith. Sue me. I'm a climber without borders. Vantage on a warm spring or fall day isn't so much about climbing but worshiping the sun.

And lived in Bozo no? Conrad knows. Took me 3 days for first trip up Granite Pk. One of the most remote of the highest peaks in the lower 48. And props to the Vancouver dude who did (I believe) Grand Wall, Freeway, and U. Wall in a day. But to evade thread drift, don't forget Croft doing Stuart complete N. ridge including Gendarme, Dragontail and all things in between in the Enchantments in a day.

Alex Lowe "lungs with legs" did a bunch of speed stuff that was unannounced and understated.

I waited for a couple hours to get on Diedre and a couple more waiting for parties ahead to organize belays that are bolted. Barely got down before dark. Epic. Speed was irrelevant. Search for UncleTricky's post a few years ago. Mt. Si near Seattle (4 mi./3400 vert.) has been done in a little over 30 min. one way. The triple is Si, McClellan Butte, and Granite Mountain in a day. No climbing but a butt load of mileage and vertical. Conditions are huge with snow and ice. Anyone notice that Chad Kellogg died? Brings back memories of the Rainier speed debate.

I have fond memories of pub club in olden days. I'll try to make it. Loved the prices at U Dist. sausage place. Contest could be what time Beckey shows up.