matt_warfield

I have been there one time but not for climbing but intend to return.

Ah Michael Stanton. I met him at a wedding before he went to Germany. Oblivious to the goings on we talked climbing nonstop for a couple of hours. Definitely a student of the art.

As usual, ivan the terrible does not get cheated at anything and has posted another masterpiece that would never get published anywhere else due to the innuendos and epithets but apparently he has greased the palms of the authorities here enough. Gotta do Epinephrine. Please don't tell anybody about it cuz its a big secret. And don't make fun of Vegas just because some make money upside down on a pole while others spend money right side up on a rope. You are also in the wrong generation. You would have been a perfect partner for Warren Harding.

The best two years of my life were in AZ. I miss the sun as much as you. But business wise Las Vegas is rocking but not property wise they have taken a bath but one person's problem is another person's solution. Good luck.

Other plus side is that RN's are making almost twice as much as here in WA state, my wife is graduating in June. They also have trauma 1 hospital, none here in Bellingham. My wife wants to work in ICU or ED, and this hospital doesn't hire new grads, more opportunities there. Plus days like today remind me how much better I feel in the sun. I guess I reached a limit of clouds and rain. No fucking around with this response. My ex-wife is an ER nurse and your research on level is right on but you could do Harborview at Level 1 if you still wanted doom and gloom, the only Level 1 in the PNW. She would make good money there. But the sun and climbing aspects along with opportunity would be great. But what about your career? I like to make sure every post has something to do with the thread so will just say move but like layton please post now and then and be as acerbic as always.

Skip half dome hike for tourists. Good news is they are in shape. The bad news is the antline up the cables wants to make me puke. And gloves are at the base for free. Buy McNamera's book and think Tuolumne. And for crying out loud take a rappel device; a few ounces of climbing heaven.

Some very reputable services advertise on this site.

I agree once again with GGK. The area within a few hours drive has an amazing amount of climbing. And Pete, the booze is free when gambling but the hookers are not cheap depending partly on whether you prefer trad, sport, or aid. And we get visitors to this site from around the country and world so, like with the internet in general, cascadeclimbers is virtual and will survive by being interesting.

You have to be the first person ever to screw up the descent from Outer Space. As Beckey would say, just take the obvious gully.

This topic comes up a lot on this site. If you do an effective search of posts you will get a firehose of information from experienced climbers and a few dumb shits but try it anyway.

Yes. On Goldline with wool knickers. There is a good reason this has evolved. My knickers were cords and the goldline was 3/8". The rope burn makes you feel alive. Heavy clothing is helpful and make sure you wear a special signature cap for the era. Evolution of raps has made climbing so enjoyable: dulfersitz, 6 biners, 4 biners, fig 8, Munter, ATC, GriGri, etc. So enjoyable. But you have to go devo (deevolution but also the name of a punk band) when you drop your device of choice sometimes so understand them all. But the dulfer sucks big time. Especially when the rope drifts into your crotch area.

Check climbing.com and Rob Pizem's report on his spring break for the climber's version of "marathon". And again like denalidave says, a big climb is similar to a marathon for many climbers.

Good one. Zero cost: meet and greet hookup A little more: dinner and a movie More: a prostitute but not high end Even more: a high end prostitute Greater: any of the above that steals from you Most: being married (unless you are smarter or luckier than me) Greatest: The biggest thread drift ever!

No, prostitution is not legal in Las Vegas or Reno but "nearby" each city. Illegal prostitution I'm sure happens in each city a lot. And in Seattle. But this info will not help cc.com prosper unless jon and oly are really enterprising.

Overhanging rock is much safer for a 5.13 climber than slabby loose 5.6 for average climbers with or without a helmet. Bolts or trad, most accidents don't happen with climbers like Arnaud. What comes to mind for me was Earl Wiggins doing Supercrack at Indian with hexes. It looks to me like Arnaud had pretty good placements (the thread was suspect) with cams but a splitter in the early days was pretty dicey.

Vegas. I'm really envious since I prefer rock climbing and sunshine to doom and gloom. And an occasional session of blackjack at a Nevada casino.

I agree. Many epic endurance events have happened on the rock and in the alpine by climbers who haven't run a marathon but have done a climbing "marathon" and are happy with that. Prioritize or at least compartmentalize because serious climbing means all batteries need to be charged prior.

Climbing sucks everywhere when the weather is bad. 100 deg. in Vegas sucks as much as 50 deg. and raining in PNW. The best (meaning sponosored), or cheapest (meaning dirtbag), or richest (meaning it doesn't matter) can chase the weather. Otherwise we do our best. Remember the motto of bowhunters: we go deep in the bush, we shoot more often, and we eat what we shoot. Best done in the PNW although Vegas is a possible. And the site will benefit from not becoming a Facebook climbing site where the entry could be "Did ElCap" and responses are "like" or "awesome". That will kill this site faster than Jones's koolaid. We like content and not trivial.

Historically, what climbers do is read and tell each other stories. Most climbers know each other better than they know their own spouse. If they have one. The stories are better when multiple ex's are involved which is normal for climbers with time. So again I agree with Scared. Cell and Sat phones have saved lives but entertainment perhaps belongs at base camp. And like Scared said, you are not going to trade electronics around on the climb, but books and conversation are always fair game and as always are powered by our minds and bodies. Recharging happens with sleep. One of my favorite climbing stories was a man and woman on El Capitan who didn't speak the same language and spent several days stranded in a storm on a ledge. No Kindle, no Smartphone, no Iphone, and also no communication whatsoever in the midst of a blizzard. These climbers survived but others died in the storm. I am sure others on this site are aware of this incident.

YES! I love my hexes for this and carry #8, #9 and #10 hexentrics. Of course I usually get sprayed on when i suggest it here - i think by people who can't place anyting but a cam. Also I get the "Needs more cowbell" jokes on the trail. I won't give you any spray about hexes. They are heavy but when you have an angled slot instead of a splitter they are the bomb. But the key to a light rack is concentrating on small gear when you can. A perfect slot for a big cam can be passed when a stopper or small cam is just ahead with a big weight savings. As John Long once said, strip down, hose off, and simplify your clothing and rack and rock climbing gets a lot more fun. Snow and ice climbers are just out there to suffer anyway so we won't worry about them.

I agree. Backcountry means backcountry. No electronics. But I am old school where if there was an accident you would just hope they could see the vultures circling. Eventually we can power everthing by solar or biomass or kickass batteries and then realize we lost the reason for being out there.

You forgot to include the part where we hunch down like the first image now in front of a computer.

I agree with the crappy scramble on the back. I am amazed that there aren't more accidents there.

Compared to all the good rock in the area, the Haystack ranks very low in quality. I am sure it has some history but think about a higher quality cardio/climbing combo of doing Si hiking with a pack with several gallons of water, pour it all out at the Haystack, salute the crappy rock, then go back down to go to E38 or Little Si after for some climbing. Just my opinion.

My bad ivan, I thought you did PLW this year. But either side PLW kinda sucks except for hardmen aid climbers. For pebble pinchers in that grade go to the Mesa Verde wall on the back side and have a bunch of fun when the weather is right. Kicks ass on Teddy's.