matt_warfield

I may show up for the Lake City shindig as I haven't been to a Pub Club for a while and it's my 'hood. But there is also the Sjong slide show at Feathered Friends.....

I think Climbing had an article in their Epics issue about the same storm. A guy had picked up a partner for El Cap- a Mexican woman that he didn't know and didn't speak English very well. They survived from high on the wall but I'll bet it was a hell of an awkward adventure for the several days waiting out the storm.

Blue Light Special, Smith?

A lot of that perception was because he was simultaneously dogging on them and a big proponent of dogging which flew in the face of most folks ethics in the Valley. Sounds like a topic for another thread of insane length.....

I have tinkered with Raindawg's post to make a point. Let us not forget (which I'm sure Raindawg has not), how much camming devices changed the trad game. Lots of folks thought Jardine was cheating when he introduced Yosemite to Friends.

PM sent.

I was in London at a reception sponsored by Martini and Rossi (major Vermouth providers) and their version of a martini was nearly all Vermouth and little gin! You did get the choice of dry or sweet Vermouth however. They sucked but were free. Personally, I go for Bombay Saphire and dry Vermouth in at least a 10:1 ratio, shaken and with onion garnish.

Darn, they were probably up there to do Supercrack and report to us about other recent ascents.

I will reiterate what I know about Supercrack. I was also fascinated with the supposed lack of a second ascent and then dug around to find out. Yoder told me that he had done it twice and knew of two other ascents (Tim Wilson and an Idaho visitor) but this was some years ago. I always wondered why Croft didn't get on it during one of his visits and have always wanted to ask him about it. I think Cilley said previously that he had not done it. Timson's FA was an amazing event.

Playground Point in Icicle canyon. It's in the newest book. Also Mountaineer's Dome in Icicle. Exit 38 around the trestle has some moderate slabs. cc.comer's have done a Kid's Ropeup over in L-worth. They would know more. Search or wait until they pipe up.

There are enough new routes to make it difficult to find your way around. Blackened is great and is the obvious crack through a roof going at around 11 b/c. The long 11a (Entering Relativity) is popular and has cleaned up a lot. It has a narrow dihedral high on it. The little cove near the end of the rock has a short 5.8 with a longer 10b left of it. Find a local and take some notes for other options. Have fun.

Take a couple of big pieces on "Stoken", and I agree with CBS that it should not be your first route. 7 Virgins is a fine climb and well protected- just pretend it's 5.6. Green Wall is crap and rarely climbed. I have climbed at Vantage at least 100 days and have never experienced a broken hold. Okay, I have, but I haven't been hurt and as long as you belay off to the side from the climb and pay attention or avoid the lower cliff walls when a lot of people are climbing/walking above you'll be fine. I still get a kick out of all the people who say Vantage is loose and then go alpine with all of its typical looseness and etc.

Colin??? Or at least some of his slides??? Wayne???

How about pope vs. Dr. Flash Amazing also (they would debate each other to death at the same rate)

So sensitive that it isn't even posted in ALL CAPS.

Props to Herr - proud ascent no doubt - but when you have "feet" that fit perfectly into the tiny crack AND don't get tired, something tells me you can't compare the two. Kinda like wheelchair records in marathons (faster!) Climbing #255 has a Letter to the Editor from Herr about City Park where he says he did not have special "hatchet" or camming prostheses for that climb but ones that certainly gave him no unfair advantage. He attributes his ascent to brawn- he could do eight one arm, one finger pullups at the time. I'm sure it won't stop the debate but it should move the focus away from the prostheses.

According to his web site, he has climbed the Nose 62 times. But that's enough to have it ruthlessly wired. I'll still bet he could do LC really fast as could many other Yosem-ites

RuMR only passes by Squamish on the way to Whistler to ski, which is really his first passion.

Jim Sandford climbed in Renton?! Wow! Oh yes, all the Canadian hardmen visited Renton prior to working the much lesser crags in Squamish and Cheakamus.

Jim Sandford probably climbed it back in the 90's.

Yes, and I wonder when the Euros will try Sharma's Mallorca route. It's got a little overhead to it......

Yes, if the slacker had been two days faster, it would have been the second ascent. What a loser.

Note that the cables had been laid down for the season and that it was raining and so represents a bigger adventure than normal. But I also am surprised that there aren't more accidents as the better conditions in summer are compensated by hordes and some sketchy folks. I was there this year in summer and won't soon forget the irony of being in such a beautiful place and yet being put off by the ant trail of people going up the cables.

Go try Granite Mountain near Prescott- multipitch granite with old school ratings and normally closed in the Spring. It will get cool soon however because it's near 7000 feet.

I've wondered why they don't update the GriGri for the skinnier ropes or have two models maybe.