JoshK

What's the peak, dru?

As I recall midnight rambler probably wouldn't have been the best place to be in high avy. It goes up a thin cleft underneath fairly big slopes on either side. I get all the climbs and their surroundings somewhat mixed up, so perhaps I am mistaken. the waterfall ice in cdn rockies book is a good purchase if you are heading up that way, and it will mention avy concerns.

Yes, this is proving to be a great work-day time killer

I think one of the reasons that a DWR coating helps breathability is that it keeps the fabric from wetting out. When the fabric wets out the moisture now contained in the fabric acts as a barrier to vapor escaping. By using a DWR, the water, for the most part, will roll off,leaving the fabric to breath as it's designed to. Just my guess tho.

What resolution pics generally result from their scans? The price certainly sounds right if the results are good.

Yeah, it had a good part in sending the entire economy into a shithole, I guess a owe a lot to the dot-coms. Oh wait, I forgot, now my taxes dollars get to pay unemployment for highschool dropout HTML coders too.

If you are a .com dropout, yes.

How the hell do you drop a tool then go and do it again on the same climb?!

Yeah, that's what I figured, which is why I was wondering if he meant the endurance cover since it's a fabric similar to EPIC and I didn't think ID made a bivy out of actual EPIC.

I haven't seen an ID bivy called epic before. You aren't referring to the pertex endurance bag cover (basically a super light weight bivy) are you?

hahahah So are you lucky enough to have a high quality slide scanner? I've started shooting slides and I'm trying to figure out the best way to get slides (or negs for that matter) on to the computer. Most of the services I have found around here to do it are either too low end (basically just meant for having pics to email) or too high end (expensive drum scans for digital reprints.)

And this whole time I was under the impression that mixed was rock-and-ice, but now I understand it's bolts+gear!

I thought the record was something like 5 times muir-to-summit and back in 24 hours?

I wash my goretex in normal detergent and have never had a problem. One thing is to use powdered detergent, NOT liquid, as the liquid tends to clog the membrane and reduce the breathability, or so I am told.

LOL. dont worry dru, I have it on good authority that skisports had tipped a few back when this was typed up (1:36am...cough cough )

Dru, just curious, but what gear do you shoot with?

Now *that* is a great idea .

Haven't been up to Yodelin, but I can't imagine artist point would have enough snow. even in a horrible shitty snow year (yeah, like this one) the baker area still has a pretty sizeable snowpack I would think.

The fuggin sucks. I'm going to lake tahoe this weekend as a present from my GF. I know, I shouldn't complain, but it's my luck it's on a weekend that would perfect for alpine around here. Why couldn't it be one of the many many weekends where it was raining up to 8000 feet!?!?

So, basically, from what I can tell...it all boils down to change for the sake of change. It's still subjective, and prone to the same drawbacks I-VI is.

I found both midnight rambler and lady wilsons cleavage+right tit quite fun. shades of beauty was also a very nice climb in my opinion.

the ski down from aasgard (or colchuck glacier) can actually be quite fun in nice conditions. I've also waded through knee deep beautiful powder from the top of aasgard to the top of the snow creek glacier just *wishing* I had brought my skis up.

BWAAHAHAHA... great pics forrest

While I've seen the hard "rule" being written like Dru describes it, I think people also blur this quite a bit. For example, I've commonly seen stuff like "well, this would normally be a grade III route, but the horrible bushwack and opportunity for being caught in bad weather make it a IV or V" So I guess that brings in the question of if it's a commitment grade for the actual climb proper or just a commitment grade for avoiding an epic or getting caught out. If it's the latter, then I would definitely argue that something 3 days into the back country is a hellavu lot more commiting than something 3 minutes off the road.

Holy shit these are funny