RuMR

DFA already explained, in fantastically simple terms, why it would be no stretch whatsoever to call oneself a "champion" after winning a shitload of comps, and how if you paid any attention to the climbing press, you'd know TA is mostly a comp climber and could thus easily extrapolate that she's a champion at comps. Sure, she (or someone) is obviously hyping her(self), but it's pretty obvious she's not just making shit up. If you're gonna put a heading at the top of your web page, and you actually want people to read it and maybe, you know, be interested enough to look around a little more, it helps to be concise. So, "Tori Allen, a girl who wins X-Games speed-climbing comps, ABS bouldering comps, and other such events, but does not compete on the World Cup circuit or have an 8a.nu profile, could sort of be considered a champion at some things" is kind of an unwieldy thing, and doesn't really draw you in. The other point to make is that SHE'S NOT OLD ENOUGH TO COMPETE ON THE WORLD CUP CIRCUIT yet...so raggin' on her is stupid

its only about money...who cares??? Plus to her that she's pulling down some of it...same w/ viestrus...it in no way affects my climbing or lack of it...

man...you guys need to chill out! She's freaking 15! and she climbs well...so be it... its not like there isn't a lot of chestbeating around here anyway, so who are we to bag a kid for it??????

ahhh...i've been going to VerticalClub/VerticalWorld since its inception.... I think it would be awesome to get a good group of motivated climbers together to really push hard...

ha! Thisiz a boulder problem at redmond!!! hahahaha I land on my ass everyfricken time...

ahh you rule! Peace out, bp...go climb something wild and wooly for me!! i'm gonna be in the gym falling off the purple taped problem for the 1,000,000 time now...getting dents in my ass from the gravel...

umm...i was thinking more along the lines of beth rodden... and, fwiw, Katie brown would school all of us in crax...you are quouting something out of context...I said "make the switch"...ie, spend some time learning how to properly place gear and she'd maul all of us...you are talking about the very first time KB went out and placed gear...

On another note, she would be schooling most trad climbers in a matter of weeks on their home turf should she make the switch...and the reverse could not be said...

Glad my life stuck in a cube farm and the godddamned f'ing gym is amusing to someone out there...

ehmmic...the reason why is to keep the spray down on them...the moderators (and posters) have done a most excellent job on smacking down most of the spray that enters this particular forum...plus, i'm a cragger at heart, so i'm sticking to this forum as much as possible...

yes what??

But bob....that is what everyone does in one fashion or another, whether its an NFL superstar, your dentist, or you... ie, you gotta work for the man with whatever skillz ya got...

I was thinking the opposite...it seems like you can always crack a one or two move power style problem even if you can't finish longer problems...plus w/ a good four to 5 hour rest and food you'll have something (not much) in the tank... Having said that, all literature that i've read has said to not do power sesh's w/o a lot of rest before and after...

Any thoughts on a double session day? By this i mean a pretty hard climbing (gym of course) day on endurance around noon-ish...several meals and a bunch of work later, go do a power sesh...Caveat, would require a bunch more rest likely...

agreed...no reason to rip anybody, much less a motivated teenager...that's f-ing lame...

E-rock... My whole point of posting it had nothing to do w/ the "world champion" thing...the girl totally kicks ass at climbing...there is no denying it...she is also an absolutely incredible athlete even disregarding climbing (ie. her pole vaulting exploits) would most likely be extremely competitive in any sport she followed... The real point of posting for me, was the rank capitilization and marketing that is going on w/ climbing (My term is "TEAM REI")...seems a very far cry from climbing's roots...and i have an extremely hard time envisioning climbers dirtbagging at camp 4 w/ one of those dolls hanging in their tents...but hey, everyone's gotta make a buck or two, so why not go down this avenue...

HA Sobo...what if she'd kick yer arse??...and then where would you be????

Push Me

Excellent Post!!! Thanx to the good doc!

The other thing could be attention span...i know that if'n i work long enough, i can send some stuff...but that comes from lotta years of climbing... ie. You can wire almost anything down to 5.10+ if you can hang onto the holds I think a lot of these younger folks don't want to trip to smith to work just one route until its in their redpoint range...

No erik...you just twist it around...that was hardman booty you collected from OTHER people bailing...not your fault...just cleaning the litter!!!

Thisizz a very good observation... case in point, would be Steve Mrazek...sucker is a redpointing machine... also, bob rogoz falls into this category as well... weight vest arrives monday...I'm still gonna mix it up a bit, though... Taken to running to keep overall weight down, man, THAT is a boring pasttime...

"FUCK THIS SHIT! I FUCKING QUIT!" (best accompanied by the flinging of chalkbag, shoes, etc.) You DIRTY PLAGIARIZER!!! WTF!! STEALING MY QUOTES!!! You forgot: "I hate this fucking sport!" and for emphasis, you must crush your hand into the wall enough to break it...

why?

That's along the lines of what i've read...I know of only one really good climber who's used it and he says its for real...SOOOOO, i'm trying to talk to other climbers who've used it...Not lifters, and not alpine climbers/hikers, but craggers/boulderers...