RuMR

FWIW...i've never seen solid 5.12 or 5.13 climbers "jumping" out from a wall...that is something a beginner does...There is flatout no need to hurl oneself out from the wall...particularly from an overhanging route...additionally, a failed dyno out an overhang may create the illusion of jumping out, when in fact it was just a failure to latch a hold... This is a stupid posting...if you saw some "sporto" jumping out, he/she obviously didn't know what they were doing...

Fence...you are assuming that the amount of rope shown will yield the location of where he dropped from...I'd add a good 10 feet (at least a body length and a half) to where he peeled from...

Not true matt...no one i know deliberately jumps out...that is a limestone route, and my guess is that it overhangs 20 degrees or more at the rating posted...

Scott...Iain is right...this route is steep...he didn't "jump" out...that is his natural flight path...

Got you to 5.12 or held you to 5.12? Just kiddin'!

Put the route you are talking about in the RC forum... HEY! I didn't start the thread...

That's basically the idea i that i was thinking with...

I think i can get another 2" of range out of that wc friend... What route?

I think it would be more than secure enough...two pieces that were sandwiched thru the holes would put them into shear...talking to Mr. Radon right now...(and Fern also)...this would be a good alternative to modify a readily available cam... Now, who gets to "test" it???? HAHAHAHA

Shims would be through-bolted to the cam lobes, maybe w/ sumpin' like a recessed hex head? You would essentially have a larger sized cam...

Yo...what do you think of that shimming idea?

Hey...I have that huge wc friend...I've considered having shims milled to bolt through the lightening holes to expand its range...Just got to find a CNC machine...Whatcha think of that? Don't need the extra size, leave them on the ground...

I think those Valley Giants are out of stock right now...at least his website is listing them as out of stock...Lemme know if you can get ahold of one...

That's it...the bible

Michael Colgan...Optimum Sports Nutrition... Only problem, is that if you follow his recommendations, you're talking about shelling out $500 a month on stuff...

Dru...you ever post anything remotely serious? ever?

So...break w/ the secrets! Anybody using Colgan's info?? Anybody?? And Erik...don't mention green stuff...

I don't think any portions of those bolts are aluminum...and they definitely are NOT in stainless bolts...steel plus aluminum equals BAD...

Simple solution for this matt, is to overdrill the depth of the hole in the first place...you can then drive the offending piece of metal in further and rebolt or enlarge the hole if upgrading...

Read the article you referenced in RockandIce...are you using it full time? Or are you cycling it in? It mentioned (well, the steven jeffery-aside did) continuing to try to boulder afterwards...Thought that would be counter-productive...

PUSH ME Note to Mod: This may need to be moved to "SPRAY" depending on posting...

Bob...alot of your arguments lose weight when you factor in the fact that everything you've posted has been by professional full time climbers...

cassis rox!!

Hey Bungle...how old are your youngin's??

You can do it THIS weekend! Really really work it w/o lowering to the ground for a while...do a section, lower and repeat that section then continue a bit further, hang and repeat...THEN, while still on the rope, climb up to that last bolt, clip into it and HANG (give your belayer and you a bit of rest) and unclip your harness from that bolt and do that jump to the bucket 4 or 5 times in a row...really really dial THAT specific move in... Come down, eat some chow, hang out, shoot the shit w/ some people...and WAIT, really really wait...come back in the evening and trundle up some stupid 5.10 thing and then go fire that route immediately...its a boulder problem only, not a route...*ahem* its right up your alley...