RuMR

Yepperz

funny...he went down to the valley and shredded standards there climbing ground up...

so sayeth a bushie-tool...your commander in chief is the primo expert on pulling shit out of his bung... *cough*I R A Q*cough*

other people are aid...

my kids...they remind me what climbing is supposed to be about...hangin' in the dirt, hangin' with good buddies, enjoying being outside in the most bitchin' places, and just plain reveling in climbing...all others pale in comparison (to me, of course)... If i had to pick a "famous" climber, it would be Mr. Alan Watts...stupendous climbing skill, down home attitude, single handedly revolutionized american climbing and a great guy all around... Several other local climbers are living a variation of the theme my kids are about, but on an adult level...and i love hearin' the stories... They would be bigwallben...he's putting stuff down and livin' the dream locally and nationally JensHolsten for chasing the dream and living the climbing life in a Jack Kerouac (spelling?) style.... and TimL who somehow has managed to combine his two biggest passions...E and climbing... Dr. Evil has managed to climb at a stunning level and put himself through med school...the PNW won't be the same without that guy...

Be aware that the lower grades at Royal Columns will lend themselves to less protection opportunities. This is because the cracks are rather wide in the 5.3/5.4 range, although the climbing is super easy and straightforward. Pay attention that the injury potential on these lesser-graded climbs is generally greater than the harder routes. Take Apprentice (5.3), for example, as someone mentioned. More that a few budding trad leaders have had their ankles/knees/elbows/legs/arms meet an untimely end on that climb. Most climbs in this range are off-widths at RC. You'll have to reach in deep to get pro, holds, etc. Moving into the 5.5/5.6 range offers better protection scenarios, as the cracks are narrowing up a bit more (hand and fist jams, foot jams). By the time you're in the 5.7 to 5.8 climbs, you're doing finger and toe jams. Although we're talking about RC right now, do not miss the opportunity to get on Ed's Jam at The Bend, just upriver. There is no finer a 5.8 crack in the entire state as easily protectable as EJ, IMHO. By 5.9/5.10, finger locks and smears and edging become de rigeur. By 5.11, it's tough crimping and deft edging almost exclusively. But then, I've only done a couple of 11's at RC, and that was a hella while back. Regarding the notion that RC is a sandbag haven, I say Pfffft! It's as fairly graded as any classic destination climbing area. Everything I've climbed there over the past 20-odd years is spot-on for the grade. Ya, I know, this argument has been had on this board a bazillion times before, and I'm not gonna engage anyone in it again. However, I strongly feel that the route pioneers at RC did an excellent job of selecting the ratings. They fit nicely with what I grew up climbing. Now if they could just get rid of the rattlers... it's been a awhile since I was there, but I believe Western Front (5.3) has mostly good protection with pro in the normal size range - you just need a couple bigger pieces to cover those spots where you need it (say #10-11 hexes and maybe a #3 and #4 C4) 5.3 is protection in and of itself...

ahhh...i see you delved into your's and poop's photo album from that lovely trip together to vegas... good on ya for reminiscing...it'll help to keep the flame alive between you two lovebirds!

ahh they are killin' it! The oldest did ok this weekend at the PNW regionals...he's in the 11&under as an 8 year old...he will OWN that category when he's 11 based on how well he's doing now... the middle one is following in his older brother's steps... the baby is the most headstrong of the 3... How's yours faring? You must miss the little one something fierce...honestly don't know how you do it...i couldn't... Take care man...shoot me a pm when you are back stateside...

wow...the climbing couples that brings to mind... dwanus/pope kevbone/pink Trashie/Trashie etc etc. etc.

apology to Builder206...i didn't realize that the "old guy" in your post was you...i thought you were ripping on some beginner...

yepperz...it was a great comp and those kids did awesome...it musta been a 100 degrees in there...

way to crush it at the PNW regionals!

exactly...

wow...whole lotta bad asses here... I think it's awesome that people get into climbing...

you still sniffing elmer's glue, fag?

f-ing mountaineers...

uhhh...grab the squamish guidebook??

skiing blows...

For you Drool, i'd recommend Elmers glue...

I'll just use Mark's line of reasoning for missing that one, as he stated it so well... "As far as missing summerprophets[iNSERT DUMBASS POSTER NAME HERE] second post, well who can blame me. You got all these guys spouting shit off, it's easy to miss a small pile of horseshit between all the big piles of bullshit. If I had spotted it, I would have jumped all over his post, especially his smarmy comment about concrete and rock behaving differently, and his attitude towards your statement."

... CBS got expelled for smokin cigs and photographing chicks in the ladies room...

backhanded compliment, i say... summerprophet says: "In hard rock the drill hole will be very smooth sided, and the epoxy will not penetrate the rock, creating a cylendar of glue with minimal adherance. The benefit of epoxy is it penetrates into the pores of the softer rock (and concrete) creating a placement structure far greater than the size of the meager hole." <-- this is complete bullshit (which i'll grant you, that you probably already know)... I hear that the summer between second grade and third grade they have remedial reading comprehension classes...i suggest that you quickly register to get a slot...or are you gonna tell me that you skimmed the thread and missed this post?? PS: I ruled in dodge ball...bring it! hey mark...sorry about being a crotchety bitch...i'm tired at work and pissed off...

I have never done, seen, or heard of anyone cleaning an epoxy anchor with water. I have placed literally thousands of these, all with inspections, and find the statement unfathomable. Is there a new method favored? Total rookie with his 30 bolts, but he's pretty right on Hey Uberator...please illustrate where i'm wrong...oh that's right, i'm not...So STFU... Also, summerprophet is in complete error about stating that he will get poor bond in hard rock with epoxy... PS: Love, I'll see you in third grade...later bitch...