RuMR
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Is this because of the rock issues, or because the bolt was placed incorrectly? my thought is that any purely mechanical bolt will slowly loosen because of the decomposing and granular nature of this particular crag. on shitty concrete, we have significantly OVERDRILLED the hole and used an epoxy bolt to keep the bond stresses between the wall holes and the epoxy plug as minimal as possible...you basically are "rebuilding" the local area with an epoxy grout.... freeze thaw will fuck you though...the advantage of a slip cone for mechanical bond is that its "adjustable" in the sense that the bolt can be retightened to account for slop in the system...one way to hedge this is to increase the length of embedment for either system...
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I am a bit unsure what you mean by epoxy reinforced. I have always thought that bolts that work via some mechanical principle shouldn’t be epoxied because doing so can inhibit the mechanical action. That said if you use an epoxy suitable for a glue-in bolt what you are really doing is turning a mechanical device into a chemically bonded one which is probably ok just an inefficient use of dollars. If the wrong epoxy is used you might simply be creating a time bomb. i'm not aware of the contra-indications with mech bolts and epoxy, and have never used the combo. seems to me if the wedge can be activated in the presence of epoxy, this approach would be superior to a simple epoxy bolt.... anyway, because of the rock issues at this crag, a one piece wedge bolt seems to be an unsafe approach. sexy chocolate...its not a good idea to mix the two...either rely on a mechanical bond (friction) or rely on a chemical bond. The epoxy WILL fuck up the mechanical bond....
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forest gump is a relative einstein compared to our friend, kevbeenboned...
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never had a problem with knot migration...
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oh yeah...don't think i'd carry more than a 60...
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Tim, I've use a 9.4 Beal combined with an 8.5 half rope...seemed to work pretty well...Regarding Fern's comment, we set up to pull the fat rope, not the thin rope... the beauty of using the half, is, if need be one has the option of actually using it as a half rope for a wander pitch or two...or if the main rope gets stuck or otherwise compromised, you can double the skinny and lead up to clean the stuckage (haven't had to use this)...a static tag loses these options for the same weight...plus, i presume you already have doubles or halfs for ice?? my worthless 2 cents...don't climb anymore so take it for what its worth...
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GODDAMMIT KEVBONEDUMBASS...quit pm-ing me!!! I am so not into that stuff...how did you fool your wife into thinking you were, ahem, normal?? please stop sending me your freaky pics...try someone else, you cyber stalking FREAK...jeezus...for the love of god, jump off of something really really high and over concrete...NOW...
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there were a couple of good croft 11+'s up near daily planet on the sheriffs badge that were good too...
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how's about pipeline and scimitar?? also, what about all the awesome stuff at nightmare rock??
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if astrologger is the one by alaskan highway, i did NOT climb it...it looked waaaay good... alaskan highway is awesome...we meant to do the whole link up, but were pretty toasted by the end of the highway and bailed...
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Astrologger...izzat the thingamajig over by alaskan highway?? like mid 11 or so???
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not in my house...
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"hey batman, where's my dinner and remote?"
