RuMR

what i'm asking is "Is there a large community of permanent/semi-permanent americans?"

So...what's the ex-pat scene like at these places? Decent community??? Inquiring minds want to know...

whales do migrate to northern waters in the summer, don't they?

my a$$ isn't so mini...

Can we return to talking about newbies and climbing at popular beginner crags now? Darwin already covered that, i believe...

i cook and do the dishes...she does the finances...did i mention that i wear skirts??

check it...trashie's a model!! Where is that fat fuck anyway?

ba$tard...

fuck...you fishin'????? Damn, this hook hurts my lip...

So...what's the ex-pat scene like at these places? Decent community??? Inquiring minds want to know...

says the mountie

Whatever, laundry-boy...Seriously, I do ALL of the cooking in my house...

duh... "what's for dinner, batman?"

Yepperz

funny...he went down to the valley and shredded standards there climbing ground up...

so sayeth a bushie-tool...your commander in chief is the primo expert on pulling shit out of his bung... *cough*I R A Q*cough*

other people are aid...

my kids...they remind me what climbing is supposed to be about...hangin' in the dirt, hangin' with good buddies, enjoying being outside in the most bitchin' places, and just plain reveling in climbing...all others pale in comparison (to me, of course)... If i had to pick a "famous" climber, it would be Mr. Alan Watts...stupendous climbing skill, down home attitude, single handedly revolutionized american climbing and a great guy all around... Several other local climbers are living a variation of the theme my kids are about, but on an adult level...and i love hearin' the stories... They would be bigwallben...he's putting stuff down and livin' the dream locally and nationally JensHolsten for chasing the dream and living the climbing life in a Jack Kerouac (spelling?) style.... and TimL who somehow has managed to combine his two biggest passions...E and climbing... Dr. Evil has managed to climb at a stunning level and put himself through med school...the PNW won't be the same without that guy...

Be aware that the lower grades at Royal Columns will lend themselves to less protection opportunities. This is because the cracks are rather wide in the 5.3/5.4 range, although the climbing is super easy and straightforward. Pay attention that the injury potential on these lesser-graded climbs is generally greater than the harder routes. Take Apprentice (5.3), for example, as someone mentioned. More that a few budding trad leaders have had their ankles/knees/elbows/legs/arms meet an untimely end on that climb. Most climbs in this range are off-widths at RC. You'll have to reach in deep to get pro, holds, etc. Moving into the 5.5/5.6 range offers better protection scenarios, as the cracks are narrowing up a bit more (hand and fist jams, foot jams). By the time you're in the 5.7 to 5.8 climbs, you're doing finger and toe jams. Although we're talking about RC right now, do not miss the opportunity to get on Ed's Jam at The Bend, just upriver. There is no finer a 5.8 crack in the entire state as easily protectable as EJ, IMHO. By 5.9/5.10, finger locks and smears and edging become de rigeur. By 5.11, it's tough crimping and deft edging almost exclusively. But then, I've only done a couple of 11's at RC, and that was a hella while back. Regarding the notion that RC is a sandbag haven, I say Pfffft! It's as fairly graded as any classic destination climbing area. Everything I've climbed there over the past 20-odd years is spot-on for the grade. Ya, I know, this argument has been had on this board a bazillion times before, and I'm not gonna engage anyone in it again. However, I strongly feel that the route pioneers at RC did an excellent job of selecting the ratings. They fit nicely with what I grew up climbing. Now if they could just get rid of the rattlers... it's been a awhile since I was there, but I believe Western Front (5.3) has mostly good protection with pro in the normal size range - you just need a couple bigger pieces to cover those spots where you need it (say #10-11 hexes and maybe a #3 and #4 C4) 5.3 is protection in and of itself...

ahhh...i see you delved into your's and poop's photo album from that lovely trip together to vegas... good on ya for reminiscing...it'll help to keep the flame alive between you two lovebirds!

ahh they are killin' it! The oldest did ok this weekend at the PNW regionals...he's in the 11&under as an 8 year old...he will OWN that category when he's 11 based on how well he's doing now... the middle one is following in his older brother's steps... the baby is the most headstrong of the 3... How's yours faring? You must miss the little one something fierce...honestly don't know how you do it...i couldn't... Take care man...shoot me a pm when you are back stateside...

wow...the climbing couples that brings to mind... dwanus/pope kevbone/pink Trashie/Trashie etc etc. etc.

apology to Builder206...i didn't realize that the "old guy" in your post was you...i thought you were ripping on some beginner...