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iain

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Everything posted by iain

  1. which pinnacle and which side? n. sister is most "fun" in spring as it is a miserable pile right now. Thayer Headwall is another nice snow route on n. sis.
  2. please don't talk about reynolds numbers and turb/laminar flow ever again. takes me back to some merciless strat/sed lectures...
  3. iain

    8=D

    code: WILD WILD WEST WAS POSSIBLY THE BEST MOVIE EVER CREATED BY HUMANITY / / oo\ (__)\ __ \ \ .' `. \ \ / \ \ '" \ . ( ) \ '-| )__| :. \ | | | | \ '. c__; c__; '-..'>.__ [/code]
  4. The south sister is a good one-day outing from Devils Lake trailhead. It is basically a steep hike. The middle and the north can be climbed from obsidian trailhead in a day, but this is a haul for a one-day trip. The north sister is considerably more dangerous than the middle or south sister.
  5. iain

    8=D

    code: oO)-. I'M A FROG /__ _\ \ \( | \__|\ { ' '--' [/code]
  6. Obviously he will only kill himself if no one's in the line of fire, but the psychological consequences of a body raggedy-anning down a cliff or ice face in a bloody heap are something to consider. It's enough to leave some mental scars. Someone headed up to solo Moscow at Smith, an easy 5.6/7, while his friends asked him not to do it. He was fine, but if he wasn't, I think it would caused some serious issues with his significant others. I don't really have a problem with it, but it's just something to consider.
  7. Sometimes there's just not much to learn except death happens to the best of us when climbing. Just ask canadian Karl Nagy. Hard to find someone more experienced in the mountains than he. A partner and I nearly died in a rock avalanche on Sandy Headwall, Mt Hood a few years back, escaping with only a chipped pelvis, damaged hand and headache (w/ helmet). "Basketball-sized" stuff was all around us making loud humming sounds, moving at a million miles an hour. Shit happens.
  8. Do you try to talk to people near you who you believe are belaying poorly, etc? I could see running into some static if I tried to do that at smith dihedrals, for instance. Takes some political skill!
  9. quote: Originally posted by erden: iluvaliens says: "Had an experience with them on Rainier/Cleaver. Their fearless leader refused to let the three parties(including mine) by under the pretense that we were all going to kick rocks down on THEM!" In case you missed it, a climber died by falling rock on DC this weekend. They just came down. Are you saying once you are climbing the DC route no one should pass? That seems unrealistic. My guess is a larger group is more likely to knock down rocks than a smaller one, particularly a larger group of people who are not ready to break away from the security of a group climb on DC and will probably be slow at times.
  10. I've used a Kokatat Gore-Tex drytop for kayaking and have had no complaints. For a paddling jacket (which generally means you are accepting getting a little damp when kayaking, I don't see the need to go with super-expensive materials. The old thin nylon Patagonia paddling jacket was great, I thought. Since you live in Eugene, I've made good use of the drytop on many a McKenzie R. trip in high school. :-) That's some cold H20.
  11. Dynafits. I know a couple of people who swear by them, but a guy had them up at fairy meadows this year and every turn on the skin track he would be popping out of them. It became a real hassle and he had to borrow a set of skis. I'd go w/ diamirs or fr's. I have silvretta 500's and a step-in binding would be real nice. Boots: I use the Denali XT (I think it's available in the USA this year) and find it damn stiff (but I'm not a skiing allstar so I like that). You will flail like a maniac if you try to climb in these things on rock, as I have done at times. That's where the 500's come into play, as they fit my invernos nicely. Denalis work great on snow/ice routes though. I'd check out the lazer. I've heard good things.
  12. Tim lay off the
  13. I might be able to make it up there for your lil' shindig, have to check on a few things though.
  14. Canadians have some funky ways of getting around:
  15. Set up a highline over Tilly Jane creek on Saturday for some rigging fun, finished with a zipline back to the other side. Had a blast, but not really climbing. Yet another day on the Eliot ice up at Hood on Sunday. Forearms sufficiently burned out. I'm not in ice climbing shape. New snow lingers on the North Face. B-rock TFJ remains one of my favorite climbs even after the # of times I've been up there. Hope it wasn't too crowded for you. Usually there's at least one Mazama type group up there that gives me crap for being by myself on that route while they engage in a shouting fest around the crawl trying to talk to each other. I just run through and get out of there.
  16. will there be music? [ 09-20-2002, 12:51 PM: Message edited by: iain ]
  17. must be listening to some eurotrash kick bass techno or something.
  18. This is a test to see if my avatar resembles bin laden and is thus potentially offensive... ppppage top, whatever that means. [ 09-20-2002, 09:17 AM: Message edited by: iain ]
  19. 900 posts of worthless drivel. That combined with my original login from a year or 2 ago puts me over the 1 grand top. [ 09-20-2002, 09:10 AM: Message edited by: iain ]
  20. "Trask" by Don Berry
  21. iain

    die

    dorks.
  22. iain

    8=D

    quote: Originally posted by vegetablebelay: quote:Originally posted by RopeGunHooker: What a talented bunch <^> <{*j*}> <^> what the...
  23. iain

    8=D

    code: (\, / \, @) \ \, / | \,,____,,--,,/\\ / _/\, \,\\\ \_/ \ /, |, \\ \ /~--__--\ / \ SQUEEZE ME || || || || || || /_' /_' [/code]
  24. nice topo
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