Off_White

quote: Originally posted by jkrueger: I am planning for Pub Club at Leavenworth August 10-18th! This just sunk in, you're going to Der for a week in August? You should go to Squamish instead if you're looking for a dose of granite.

quote: Originally posted by trask: in that case, i'll take two Just gain 50 more pounds trask, you'll have your own pair

and pictures, don't forget the pictures.

"At either end of the social spectrum there lies a leisure class." Eric Beck

"All the experts are dead" -- Dee Molenaar in response to someone referring to him as an avalanche expert

I had one of those under my bed night before last... in my cat's mouth. Do you think they like to start with the head because it makes such a satisfying crunchy noise?

quote: Originally posted by icegirl: And, yes, He has climbed a few things in the PNW, I believe the North Face of Colonial Peak "Watusi Rodeo" route has his name on it... Yeah, but I gotta spray about that. As quoted in Nelson's book, he totally boged his music reference, Guadalcanal Diary is from Athens, GA not Austin, TX and the album was "Walking in the Shadow of the Big Man" not whatever was reported in the book. Maybe it was Jim Nelson's mistake, but its one of those details that bugs those in the know, like when Hollywood Movie Climbers defy the laws of physics.... Me, I'm a proponent of the new Slow Alpinism . Twight has poisoned the sport with all this emphasis on car-to-car-in-45-minutes bullshit that is sweeping the alpine world. Christ, if I wanted to do that kind of stuff I might as well be a jogger. Heaven forbid I should spend the night out in a nice place, have any time to idle about, or spend any time in the mountains thats not.... productive. Sheesh, how 90's.

quote: Originally posted by texplorer: Are you God? No, no, think of it as being an agent of entropy, just doing your little bit to hasten the heat death of the universe. That rock really wants to achieve a lower energy state, and you're just lending a helping hand.

I did a route on the NE Face of Fortress that wasn't half bad, a number of pitches of decent rock down low on a rock band with long steepening snow slope above, topping out on the E Ridge (the ridge that connects to Chiwawa. Snow was deep glop on the other side of the ridge, so we went back down for some stellar trundling (I know, different thread) off the moraine.

I found that 12 street vendor tacos and a loaf of bread from the panderia in Tecate was enough for a weekend in Canon Tajo.

Yup, that sounds like a brilliant sandbag. Nice touch the way Szyjakowski seemed to verify the existence....

Yeah, and to the nimrods who left their tootsie roll wrapper at Peggy's Pond last Sunday, I picked that up for them too.

Yah, what Dru said. Have an array of options that fit all the possible conditions, could be too warm for ice, too cold & snowy for alpine rock, or too nasty for anything but cragging & hiking. There's a good hike from about halfway up the icefields parkway, the approach to Forbes. Goes in to a huge natural lake (glacier lake maybe?) then back to where a couple icefields (the mons and another larger one, memory fails) spawn a large river. Lots of icefall off the icefield to the right, which dies out at the top of a bunch of cliffs. Should be fairly lonesome up there too, some nice sandbars along the nasty cold river to bask upon...

ahh to have such a public pulpit from which to spray! You know how it goes, some people are assholes and some people are okay. Membership in any sub-culture or demographic does not prevent you from being an asshole. Sure, its a sliding scale with a lot of gray area, and we all can fluctuate on our position on that scale on a day to day basis, but it works for me as a worldview. Its been a long time since I thought that someone was automatically okay just because they were a climber. And yes, some cyclists are assholes who want the "rights" of being a vehicle without being constrained by the "rules." Guess I'm just agreeing with Lizard Brain in my typically verbose manner...

Where's Fairweather and MtnGoat with the "let market forces settle it" cant?

I think the battle over ANWR isn't about the volume of oil, its about setting the precedent. If you can make that acceptable to the people, it will be a short haul to open up the Californina coast to drilling again (way more oil, much easier to get) and pave the way to more resource extraction from wilderness areas and national parks. The issue is ideology, not necessity.

Well, if you're talking peaks with trails, it would have been Santa Rosa in southern California with the boy scouts, but the fever doesn't really hit until you've done something with a rope, which was the N. Face of Mt Darwin in the Sierras. The Cascades are amazingly splendid, but once in awhile I do miss that dependable Sierra gully ice....

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Ya "better put some purple klister on this cucumber for better glide, its getting hot", huh. Don't you be trying to talk sexy to me, who do you think I am, trask?

quote: Originally posted by MtnGoat: [QB Oh, your data is from that green group, right? Must mean it's false.[/QB] Dear Mr. Goat: That sort of dismissal goes on from both sides, and it is not necessarily without merit. Since science is a human endeavor, it is not entirely possible to divorce it from politics. Surely you are not so naive as to think that scientists don't want to please their funding sources? As Twain said, there are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics. You (I think it was you, apologies if I'm wrong or if I've misinterpreted) said that the market would settle everything out anyway, when the cost of alternatives came close to the status quo. The longer one can avoid adding the full cost up for fossil fuels (if the climate change scenario is right) then the more the market is skewed by disinformation. There's nothing anymore pure about "The Market" than there is about "Science." Both are quite open to manipulation for the sake of making money. That being said, I've enjoyed your questions, and they will prod me into a little research sometime later when I don't feel guilty about avoiding what I should really be doing right now...

quote: Originally posted by Dru: [/qb] The ingredients have always been listed in BOTH ENGLISH AND FRENCH[/QB] Well, not always Dru, you forget that I am old enough to remember when your grandma was a sexy young thing. The english and french is a bonus though, just the thing to pass the time reading mac 'n cheese boxes in the dripping tent. If you find out whats up with that wax thing though, let me know. I think they use different waxes depending on the temperature... Would that we all could be as svelte as our northern neighbors.

I recall some little burger stand up by Robson. I think it was Mountain Burger. Famished, we all ordered the specialty of the house, the "Mountain Burger" and got half way through before we realized it didn't quite taste right. When closely questioned, the proprietor had to admit that it was some kind of soy product, which he tried to justify by adding "I think it makes a better burger, don't you?" Do they have to list the ingredients on things in Canada yet? I always liked those coffee creamers that just said "an edible oil product" that we would build into tall pyramids on long rainy afternoons in Banff...

Dru, since I usually work in Sandstone, that idea has real merit. All I need is that cordless belt sander so I can do a little rap filling...

Okay, that sounds like a real question, I'll bite. It all depends on the kind of bolt you're trying to remove. Contraction bolts, like the old Rawl split shanks, either with a buttonhead or a nut, are removed with brute force. Some folks have advocated wedging action (watch out for rock scarring!), I've used a modified slide hammer (like those used to remove wheel bearings and such). Expansion bolts are different, like the now popular 5 piece rawl. They consist of a three piece sleeve, bolt, and cone. To remove the hanger, the bolt comes all the way out, then you thread it back in a little, tap it down to disengage the cone from the sleeve, remove the bolt, and fish out the sleeve parts with a coathanger and needlenose pliers. I think chopping off a protruding stud with a cold chisel or some such would tend to leave an unsightly scar. I'd love to hear what someone has come up with for good hole filling, I've used polyurethane caulking and tried to camoflage with bits of rock, dust, and even a little spray paint, but I'm not fully satsified with the result.

Awww tex, if you wanna catch anything with this troll you've gotta make up a new avatar, give it some credentials like a Mountaineer's course or two, and have it float the question while being a little more ignorant about the whole crack bolting thing.

Dru = RURP?