Off_White

quote: Originally posted by Dru: quote:Originally posted by Lambone: I hear that works really well on routes ove 90 degrees... Yes you hang-on with one hand and drill with the other. If you get pumped you fall off and must lead back up to your high point to continue drilling. Just A little Corner (12c) in the Needles of S Dakota was put up in this fashion by a 61 year old man. Well, I'm really playing catch up on this thread, bear with me. Dru, thats new fangled wackiness: it takes two hands to hold the drill holder AND swing the hammer. Don't tell me you are a bosch weiner! Oh, it's so tough when one's idols are shown to be merely human!

Dwayner, I'd feel comfortable attempting any route on the planet with you that we both would want to try, but c'mon, while Big Lou IS a big dick, his winkie is the size of your pinkie. This sycophant business is such a glaring hole in your armor, get a grip lad. [ 08-21-2002, 03:14 PM: Message edited by: Off White ]

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Rap bolters are real weak. True men run it out gnarly hand drilling free on the lead sheesh Dru, true men don't spend a lot of time fretting over what true men do or don't....

About 5 or 6 years ago I noticed a modern sport route on the south end of Pinto, closest to the parking area, looked to be in the 5.10 category. We walked all the way around, noted some other potential, but no other routes aside from the adventure routes mentioned in Beckey. I've been hoping someone would go to the trouble of developing routes, so I could just go and climb, but I haven't been back and haven't dug up any other information. Where on the rock were they?

quote: Originally posted by Matt:[/qb]I swear on pitch 4 there was a big off width/chinmey/overhang that only protected with something bigger than a number 4. My partner told me there was a way around, but that's what I'm thinking of. Kor-Ingals is one of the few climbs I've done where I brought two #4s and a #5. Someone told me pitch three has been retrobolted and now what used to be the scary offwidth is tame-- you know, the part where the calcite (white rock) is? I climbed it during spring break 1995 so it's been a while. What I do remember is waiting on top of the tower for a few more parties to get up before the sun went down. There were maybe four of us, just hanging out, passing a joint around, strangers sharing in the comradery of climbing. Loving every minute of it.[/QB] When we did it back in 82 I know the only cam I owned was a #2 friend. Odds are it went with a #11 hex and a 5" tube chock, pitch 4 would have been mine, but I don't recall it at all, though following pitch 3 is still vivid in my mind. I do recall a great game of hackey on the summit. When the sack inevitably rolled off the edge, it landed on top of the guy finishing the last pitch, who brought it up and joined in. Turned out he was also from Washington, and in discussing the old car ad shot on top of the tower, it came out that he was related to Glen Grant, of late night Seattle car advertisement fame. On the subject of mega cams, the largest I ever saw were made of plywood and bungee cord by Jorge Urioste down in Las Vegas, so he could aid a nasty 5.11 squeeze in Black Velvet Canyon and bolt it. They didn't look like anything you'd want to fall on, but had massive rube goldberg climbing geek appeal. [ 08-20-2002, 06:05 PM: Message edited by: Off White ]

I've seen one on the approach trail to Spring Mountain in eastern Oregon last fall. The routine was to walk around the backside of the widget, just to thwart whatever was going on, but I have no idea just what they expected to decide with the data gathered

quote: Originally posted by Bug: I much prefer the North Face route from the very bottom toe of the face. It is cleaner, longer, and has more exposure. Then follow the ledge across the face of the Fin and it is a great 5.7 route. I couldn't agree more. I did that N. Face route and just loved it. A couple years later we did Serpentine, and somehow it just... lacked in comparison. The crack pitches right of the tower were sweet and all, but the total package was just not as tasty. I was under the impression that Serpentine got more traffic these days, yet another reason to choose the route from the lowest toe.

I dunno, I think trip reports are more about storytelling, at least any that are worth reading. If you wanna approach it as chestbeating, feel free, but it seems like one of those double edge swords, since there is always someone out there harder. No Trip Reports = Insecure About Penis Size

I was up there recently, but didn't specifically scope that connection out. I did look down to the NW, which offered some twisty scree gullies that I facetiously offered as great routes up. I'd think you could easily scree ski down 'em (much more enjoyable) and then head over to Hinman. From up top, it looked like the main reason to hit Hinman was if you had your skis or board with you, but I'll bet the perspective is nice over there.

Dang! I ain't had this much fun since I put some red ants and black ants in a jar and shook it up. A few years back there was a terrible dust up on the rec.skiing newsgroup and three or four folks in Seattle got involved and moved the dispute to the real world, with fisticuffs, reporting work time spent online and getting people fired, beating up cars with baseball bats, restraining orders, and stalker accusations. I believe the judge even tried to sentance one of the combatants to staying off the newsgroup for a year. Anyway, if you ask me, Trask not going over to Mountain Man's house to engage in the pugilistic arts is a good thing, and its not about who would win. Next thing you know, Ken Schram would be writing editorials about CC.com [ 08-07-2002, 02:24 PM: Message edited by: Off White ]

quote: Originally posted by Dru: hee he I know of some that have done it in 26 hours car to car... no headlamp, bivi with the goats above the descent gully... See! Thats what I'm talking about, slow alpinism at its finest, cavorting with the natural world, taking your time to smell the goats, out of the cubicle farm and into unstructured unproductive time...

While rapping down Deep Throat on the Apron, someone over on The Mouth asked me to swing over and show him how to set up a carabiner brake rappel. We were only 5 pitches or so off the ground. A quick seminar seemed to suffice and he didn't plummet screaming while I was still in the area.

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: The verb "projecting" is actually derived from the noun "project," I always thought it would be awesome to have the skill to projectile vomit on demand.

My son just bought a pair of the equinox (what's the plural for that word?), and used 'em for the first time this morning, but its much too early to offer any meaningful review. They seem decently made, and look like they'd make a decent all day shoe. For long routes, especially if you're not pushing the desperate edge of your comfort level, just find a shoe that fits. You'll know it when you find it, it'll just feel right. For me, on the long alpine stuff, I use an old pair of first generation Fire's that have been resoled about 4 times. I like the full leather uppers for all day knocking about, they perform well enough up to middling 5.10 and harder if need be, and time has made them exactly the shape of my feet. [ 08-06-2002, 01:26 PM: Message edited by: Off White ]

quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Damn I still have a long ways to go beofre I loose this Chronic Gumby Status. Jon can't I have my own special designation? I suggest "Weekend Warrior" Well, stay on good enough behaviour for a long while, suck up to the powers that be, and maybe they'll make you a moderator, which automatically bumps you to Rope Gun Hooker. I just checked out that full site. Its a pretty classic example of shameless self promotion for old Hans, eh? Hey, you gotta do what you gotta do if you want to make a living out of the sport, but it certainly looks like he has the ego to match the talent and sense of humor. I particularly liked his lists of six favorite things. Coffee is clearly not his thing. Pretty entertaining though, thanks for the link Peter.

"So, how was the North Ridge of Stuart?" "It went really really fast." "Yeah, but how was it? Isn't that a great climb? I like those last couple pitches up to the gendarme, what a great position, eh?" "I dunno, it was all kind of a blur, I don't really remember any of it, but man, it went really fast." "Oh. Cool." This little vingette is brought to you courtesy of the new Slow Alpinisim Movement. You work hard enough to get there, shouldn't you enjoy it a little bit? If all you want is the workout, you might as well spend 7 hours on your stairmaster with a glossy mag in front of you. Sure, I'll be happy for you if fast is your thing and you had a good time, but its not really my show.

quote: Originally posted by erik: the cross country hiking in the sierra is quite pleasent. Yes indeed, and I'm about to head down there for 10 days. A family trip rathern than a climbing one though, more lounging, fishing, scrambling and bouldering and less whimpering in fear. If I get exposed to too much of that horrid burning orb I might have to change my name from Off White to Pinkie.

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: So can you bring dirt bikes up in that area as well? Well, if you get a run at it.....

Hey Bone: Early season, that would be a snowmobile. Didn't Colin report watching snow machines come over goat pass to play on the stuart glacier while he was on his oh-so-hotly-debated quick ascent of the N Ridge?

As "Pappy" says: Absolutely. Lessons to be learned by any one willing to learn. I find lots of good "beta" over there, but the NOISE you have to listen to almost makes it unbearable sometimes. It seems fitting that one of their own got in public trouble given the constant be-littling of the Mountaineers (I am not a menber), posers, gapers and anyone that doesn't climb 5.10 right off the couch, by so many of them. Shoot, I guess these folks have never hung out with a fractious bunch of climbers. All that noise just sounds like love to me. But then again, I kinda like it down in the mosh pit

quote: Originally posted by chucK: how's this? Its a thing of beauty, thanks (its much better when that guy is smaller, he doesn't make me fidget in the chair nearly so much)

quote: Originally posted by sk: It's all about STYLE baby Wait a minute, are you trying to bring this back to a climbing topic? Clip that Harley off to a bolt with about 30' of slack chain....

Yeah, chill out you two, save the chest beating for the trip report rather than the descent and approach beta. As I recall, Mtneer's Creek is well suited for the Complete, while Ingalls with its higher bivy is better for the regular N Ridge. If you camp at Goat Pass, its either carry your gear over or endure the hike back to the pass just to get your gear and hike back down. When I did the complete, it was September on a low snow year, and the Sherpa was not an easy descent. We nothing but talus from the summit to the top of the Sherpa, and the gully itself was hard with an inch of slub on top, not conducive to a non-crampon descent. We bived at the top with an hour of light, deciding that headlampless darkness in the midst of a rappel descent would be a bad thing. This year, in August, you should be able to make it back down the Sherpa to your bivy in a day. So, to wrap it up, I think: Ingalls approach for complete n ridge = carryover with a south side descent and possible bivy Mtneer's Creek approach = reasonable one day round trip from the bivy below Sherpa Glacier. Of course, everyone else on this board seems to move so damn much faster than me, you could probably also do Triumph and Bonanza later the same day...

quote: Originally posted by allison: I rode what they called many things, my least favorite probably being a 'rice rocket.' I'm more familiar with the term "crotch rocket." Is that more acceptable since its less race specific? Its certainly more to the point of what upsets the Harley riders, unless you're going to step up to that Louisiana built motorcycle that's powered by a helicopter turbine..... [ 08-05-2002, 08:32 PM: Message edited by: Off White ]

quote: Originally posted by fredrogers:/QB]"the technical mastery of quickdraw placement"? It's either left clip or right clip. Not the same as plugging gear...[/QB] well, ya gotta hold on too. Fred, yer spot on, but you should consider losing the cardigan...