Off_White

Hey, me too!

Iain! You've got a new category!

Maybe he's dressing in drag these days, and he's one of the two women on Glacier Peak with Lambone.

quote: Originally posted by sverdina: Is there such a thing as a worse bushwhack than getting to the N. face? What a freakin' nightmare! Yes. Seek and ye shall find.

quote: Originally posted by gapertimmy: the one week i can be part of the argument i'm gettin shut down No, you've just elected not to drive the extra 30 miles. If you want it bad enough, you'll be there.

The only thing I can add is to nod my head at everything the Caveman said, well put.

Directions for the uninitiated?

I blistered the snot out of my hands bailing out on a rope swing in my backyard on Thursday. I figured it would be better than smacking the tree from 40' out on a pendulum. I did manage to self-rescue, and thank god there were no witnesses.

I'm up for it

quote: Originally posted by trask: My picture is a tribute to a fine ass...plain and simple. What the hell's a 'trask'? Hmmm, I thought you were giving us the answer: trask is a fine ass? As for me, the picture was just out of the offered set, and I'll echo Mr Noggin about the "not to be taken too seriously" bit, and I want one of those hats...

Oh good, I'm glad you have the title too. I noticed it on trask today, so you've got company. Truth be told, I'd consider you a little more "black belt spray master" than zen, but then again I'm not one of the deities here.

No no, the conservatives suck up to the business interests, the liberals suck up to fringe non-profit organizations. You know, like PETA with their current effort to ban fishing in WA State Parks because it hurts the fish. I have it on good advice that its okay to eat fish, cause they don't have any feelings.

quote: Originally posted by erik: i think i want to start a club called, "the lonely bitter liberals".... I don't get it, did the story on the link change? I got a story about someone without a clue who has a plan to stop downloading copyrighted material, and just how much money the entertainment industry paid to buy him. What's that got to do with lonely bitter liberals? I'm a cheerful gregarious liberal, and I've worn out several eye patches whilst downloading pirated goods...

All that being said though, its a great route, and you shouldn't have a hard time drumming up a partner. If you're thinking of soloing, you should be able to lead every pitch, so you don't even need a solid leader for a partner, just someone reasonably fit, a good belayer, and easy to get along with.

i think the consensus out of that thread was that the granite in Renton is a hoax. Of course, you could try, Renton is lovely this time of year...

Anyone have any experience and recommendations for static ropes? Intended use is toproping (and a rope swing), and I'm interested in durability.

Given the recent warmth, presumably the area after the Gendarme rappel is running with water rather than iced up. It would suck to hit verglas there while soloing. I do think Alex's advice is wise, it isn't an inconsequential solo, and it would be best to have some knowledge of the route first.

quote: Originally posted by DavidW: it seems to me that the ONLY excuse for altering the landscape can be in creating something of widespread & longstanding value in a craftsman-like manner. Exactly! More of a public service and less of a moment of self glorification. I think this is a reason its good to have first ascent information in a guidebook, because some people lovingly craft their routes and others just dash them off, and knowing someone's body of work can give you a good indication of what you can expect on a route.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:I dont write TR's and here is my beta :moon Ahem. Ray gives good TR

quote: Originally posted by Necronomicon: Although, what do you call an ascent where you hang at every bolt but don't actually take a fall? That's still just dogging it. Were you suggesting "Stain Point" as a name for Richard's new route?

I dunno Pete, I don't think bolts are any more chicken than gear. You've been around long enough to do some bolted routes that are quite scary. A chicken bolt is one placed near a bad gear placement, it frees up that part of your mind which is gibbering madly about just how screwed you are.

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: WHAT THE FUCK IS UP WITH THAT!? They're worried that Retro will go erase them...

quote: Originally posted by Matt Anderson: (of course, at the outer limits, there is consensus - 1/2 inch bolts every three feet on a route intended for free climbing is not trad - What if they were all drilled on the lead by hand?

Richard: I wasn't trying to slam you, but you do see the superficial similarity between your question and Poptart's? Maybe its partly that the area is not named, so the whole thing sounds secretive and hypothetical. Between the "dick head" name and my non-specific memories of other posts of yours, I assumed this was a "stir up the shit" moniker of someone else on this board, and hence your post seemed out of character. For me to say "more spray than substance" simply refers to posts on this board and in no way is intended to make any assumptions about what effect you have out there in the real world. Or anyone else for that matter, for all I know trask is really the head of the Mountaineers. And to take your question seriously, I think your style on the unspecified route is reasonably traditional for the way routes get put up in the Northwest. Gardening and cleaning is a fact of life up here. As much as anything, you are creating a route that others can lead in a traditional manner. I'd say you got the first ascent, as well as the first free ascent. I don't think most cragging routes (alpine is a different story) around here lend themselves to the archetypal "I walked up to the unknown crack and flashed it" trad ideal. Many of those classic cracks in Yosemite started out life as grass filled horror shows that were first climbed on aid, and later cleaned into the tasty lines they are today. As for the chicken bolt, as the route creator, its your call. You're bound to get flack either way you go. A 20' whipper if you're not grounding out is not that horrendous, unless you mean 20' out from your last gear worth anything, in which case you're looking at 45' which is serious. Bold routes are cool, but they often don't get that much traffic, and to be sure a chicken bolt will make the route more popular, which will also lead to it staying clean as opposed to being reclaimed by the dirt and veg.

For your reference: poptart's bolting question And hey, maybe you're not trolling, but I've always had the impression you are more spray than substance... not to imply that's necessarily bad.