Off_White

We did the '57 route back in 1982, so my memory is a little fuzzy. I think we did something non-standard to get out on the rib from the lower bit, up to the triangular snowpatch then out right on some ever so gradually increasingly difficult rock, until the last move onto the heather and I thought, "huh, coulda used a rope back there." That heather was pretty heads up, but we just kept going until the rappel point before we uncoiled the rope. As I recall, there wasn't much gear placement opportunity, and it was the accumulation of constant mild anxiety that was so wearing. That's the kind of terrain where old fashioned stiff mountain boots are really helpful. We rapped down into the couloir, which we climbed on snow, but it was partly melted out and bridged over the rock in various places, so we just kept the rope on. We invented some cockamamie descent straight down the south side, winding up with the most cush forced bivy ever - soft bed of moss and heather surrounded by dry firewood. We did that descent that heads west, over the far shoulder and straight down the steep timber to wind up near the Torment Basin trail; that descent was out of fashion even back then, but all we knew was the Beckey guide. 🙂 I thought it was a really good outing, but once was enough. This direct start looks both wild and ghastly, tip o' the cap to you gents.

Ah Squid, that guy owes me a six pack.

Old timer (well, older than you and me anyway) named Fritz who used to post on Supertopo back when it was alive seemed to have details on a lot of Idaho alpine history, with an emphasis on the Sawtooths. I seem to recall him talking about the FWA of the Finger of Fate. You're out Eastern Oregon or Western Idaho these days, aren't you Dane?

I've been slowly working on some back-in-the-day TR's, and all the images are pre-digital, usually on slide film, and Kodachrome to boot. I've found it really difficult to get good scans of that film, particularly when a little underexposed which I always leaned towards for the color saturation. In terms of hardware/software, I've got a Nikon Coolscan V slide/negative scanner and use VueScan software. I'm familiar with but hardly a master of the process, and I get the sense there is a lot more I could do with the software if I just knew which settings to tweak in which direction. Any advice anyone?

Is that from up on Luna Peak? Mighty fine view.

I always thought the N Ridge of Torment would be the proper start for the TFT, and that Torment Basin approach is pretty cool, did it a couple times back in the early 80's and quite liked it. We did try to start the S Ridge from that side and wound up who knows where, probably my hardest lead in the alpine wearing mountain boots! We bailed down what must be the SW Face? We saw rap slings out that way and were happy to retreat after a couple of really tough pitches and time wasted. I gather that side has totally fallen out of favor these days.

What a great thread you've started Jason, bravo!

Here's some drone shot image of David Lama headed to the actual summit of Lunag Ri; clearly the distinction seemed to matter at the time.

Or the whole Lava Point bluff if you just want to clip bolts - mostly 5.9 to 5.10 and interesting climbing. The Bend has a few bolted routes, but there is a reason it was once tentatively named The Crack House. ;-)

If he's inexperienced leading on trad rock, you will likely find yourself always on the sharp end. That can be really fun, but don't underestimate the impact of being on point all day, including making all the route finding choices. That probably won't matter since as others have pointed out, most alpine rock around here won't be in condition during your visit. The volcanos often offer crampon hiking with serious consequences and rare moments of terror: What's that whooshing sound? Why are my legs dangling in space? Oh no, I put my helmet down on it's top, when will it stop sliding? Stuff like that. If you want a good Forbidden Peak adventure, consider the North Ridge rather than the west. More glacier travel, you'll circumnavigate the peak, you'll probably be out 2 nights early season, and it'll be pretty wild and lonely. Downside might be the last few pitches; though moderate rock, it may present some challenge if all snowed up. Peruse the trip reports here, you'll find a lot of info on many possible objectives. Hope you both have a great time.

Feeling curious to read the "After Hours" TR on Lemolo again, I did a search in the TR section. Oddly, the link connected to some old 2008 political thread in Spray; interesting to see posts of so many old regulars, but not what I was looking for. Tracked it down by other means, so here's the link for others who are curious. I think the assessment of this as a more "fun" route than the Zorro Face is probably correct. Lemolo FA TR

Huh, I just always assumed everyone here who wasn't me was Olyclimber. I was never any good at the sock puppet game.

Funny. none of this much sounds like how i climbed the West Ridge, and we only roped up for the last pitch and a half to the summit. Still lots of adventure to be had on this moderate classic route.

I dunno, the state is developing a disturbing habit of losing it's summits. Both Baron Spire and the Finger of Fate in the Sawtooths have had house sized summit blocks fall off this year. I hope these are a little more solid ;-) Here's another teaser, no climbing in this part of Idaho either...

Dan, do you know the former moderator Minx? She moved to the Boise area from North Bend some years ago and really likes it. She's more into horses these days than climbing. I could probably connect you via email if you're interested & she's willing. Boise is more of a real city than Bozeman, and it's quite a bit more mild in the winter, but mountains are nearby. Sawtooths are like an hour and a half, wonderful range. Never skied at the area outside Boise but I hear it's good. Basalt cragging along the snake near town. If you like limestone sport climbing then Hells Canyon is just the ticket. Summers are hot though.

Wow, great adventure and super thorough TR, well done.

I'm only talking duration for the sake of a grade, I agree the routes have very little in common. We don't have a seriousness grade, which is too bad, because we could discuss that endlessly too. How cool you've repeated both of those recently!

We did it in 9 hours back in the stone age, but got benighted on the descent. Grade IV states that "some parties my bivouac", and complete N Ridge on Stuart still gets a IV; it's a comparable amount of work albeit a very different route and kind of climbing. I'd stay with IV, that is, if I had a vote.

It seemed appropriate to move this to the Alaska forum, what a cool range, thanks for posting.

Nice, that's a lot of ground to cover in a day, I recall being happy to make it in two days. That first early morning picture of the second lake is very beautiful, I like the way you framed it so that the lake just ends at the notch and the lower lake is completely hidden. Thanks for the TR.

You're on the other side of this, aren't you? Probably isn't any easier to approach via Owyhigh Lakes given the work to get around to the start. Out and about to less popular destinations sure seems like a good call this year! Thanks for the report and swell pictures. <Edit> Oh never mind, that's Governor's Ridge, Cowlitz Chimneys are behind me! That's from the only time I've been up in that area about 5 years ago.

I was just looking at that in the guidebook yesterday and wondering the same thing! In Beckey anyway it reads like the route to do up there on that face, though maybe the '65 line would also be fun. Has that hanging glacier receded and become less scary over time? Also, got any more pictures from that climb? I'd love to see 'em.

Wow, what a remarkable tale well told. It's remarkable that you were able to be evacuated that swiftly, the modern world does have its upsides.

Hear hear! You're still alive too, well done.