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Everything posted by ivan
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so seriously, how much longer you wager till that thing falls the fawk over and becomes a large assortment of bouldering problems?
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dunno - w/ 14 posts ya can't really claim he speaks for the masses yet, eh? my only consistent problems w/ extreme conservatives seems to their continual lack of humor - i can get along w/ the craziest fuckers imaginable so long as they like a good-natured laugh every coupla minutes...
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jesus!
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gay or not, who would you least rather fuck w/ - a climber or a ufc type?
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lessee, so, for mike, that'd be kiddie fruit pieces n' bacon, eh?
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sweet, sweet day out at the big rock today many, many thanks to josephh for cleaning out flying circus - i'd like to say my own lead of the newly cleaned bit was a master-stroke of brillant free climbing but i'd be lying a lot - much respect for the crazy FA's doing it w/o cams - yowza! like most beacon climbs a buncha nuts will protect the majority of the climb, but the off-width at the top was titilating even w/ a #4 which was almost always on the verge of being tipped out - a new school #5 would have been most welcome as an extra-piece hung out w/ jim at the ledge for a long while - he had a scarey moment when it looked like he only had enough papers for 2 more cigarretes for his bivy i gave him crap for doing his faux-alpine bivy by rapping down to it! i doubt i'll be talking as much shit when i'm as old as tortoise-turds though...
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bill, you should know that anyone w/ legs like coulior's can say anything they damn well please - your job is merely to drool and nod your head, no?
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it's more like 5.9 but 90 non-stop feet of .9!
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a black man fighting animals? sure was cool when this guy was doing it...
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you mean these aren't just the by-products of advanced age?!?
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morisson and marat both died in bath-tubs in paris - both were demagogues - both died young - both were assholes, albeit linguistically gifted ones
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god i loved marat! so was jim morisson totally trying to copy-cat him or what? FREEDOM IS SLAVERY!
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hobo spiders are asian i think also according to jim, the current meeting between the chief execs of n america will result within in a years time in all sorts of fucked up rules we can't even imagine now, but they will certainly include not being able wipe our asses w/o gov permission - there are currenlty hundreds of camps already built around the country to house those who won't Pay Heed - this will all be rigidly enforced by implanted id chips and tv's that watch us while we watch them, uh, and also from cia bases on the moon and mars i infinitely prefer climbing w/ jim to soloing!
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nothing that wearing a clown-suit and maybe taking a hammer to yer choppers couldn't fix
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hmmm - actually i took jim's word for it - i ran into him at the bottom of the corner and he said he'd gone over and looked and it was all gone
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"the boisterous sea of liberty is never without a wave" - thomas jefferson sometimes them waves can build up into a damn tsunami, no?
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yeah, i really chock it up to starting on amphitheatre then moving over to cathedral - however poor or good cathedral rock might be, the rock on amphitheatre is much, much better that said, the se butt route on cathedral is a fine climb - we started it in poor style though w/ 2 false starts too far up the gulley, which irked me as i was belaying in the chilly-willy shade the whole time - starting low on the buttress from the start woulda been much more copacetic and improved me overall humors
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it was all out as of this evening - who got it? what's the verdict - which was the piece that caught you? jim has an arch-nuts'n'hexes snobbery theory to blame it all on, of course love the carcass situation on the corner route currently - desicated fish heads on the traverse - two seagull wings connected by a wishbone at the slab belay - assorted blue-jay debris from the tree ledge on up - aerial-grendels at work, no doubt - would be a whole different climb if i had to contend w/ man-eating deranged fucking avians the whole way firsure saw that big block on the traverse was cut loose - wish i coulda seen it!
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a very fun trip - i'd recommend climbing the monk and cathedral first, then going to amphitheatre, that way you don't feel as pissed as we did at the dramatic decrease in rock quality - what an awesome place to chill out for 4 nights! if only i'd had more whiskey and more smokes.... kat - we didn't climb on the monk, but it's right next to cathedral and the rock looks exactly the same - i didn't care for it - very large grains in the granite which tended to crumble under pressure - lots of huge boulders and flakes which were very loose - the pro frequently was very unreliable. amphitheatre on the other hand was diviiiiiine regretably all of the goodstuff on amphitheatre near the upper cathedral lake, including the kabba buttress, is north facing - the sun hits it a little bit in the morning and a little bit in the afternoon, but mostly it was shady and damn cold for august - definitely recommend cold-weather belay accutrements! for the kabba buttress route, don't be a dumbass like me on the last pitch - after the short, hard, wide crack, step left of the big old offwidth (or better yet, bring the #6 and hit it! looks tasty...) and then proceed strait up a kinda dirty looking crack - i tried to be all smart and follow an easy low angled ramp which got hard towards the end - hard enough that once on top of it i discovered i couldn't really downclimb it and i'd screwed meself good n' proper - the rock suddenly turned to orange kitty-litter and the only way to climb the last few feet to the top was by liebacking a 2000 lb boulder that was adhered to the wall by a 1 inch ledge - the thought of pulling on it made me want to retch as it surely would come out, crushing me or cutting the rope or both so anyway, get out there and do it folks! fantastic place to spend a bunch of days and don't skimp on the recreational substances! with a spectular high-tundra-like camp only 10 minutes from several dozen routes, there's plenty of time to both climb and party like a champion!
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what? that old rusty ring-pin not good enough for ya? there used to be bolts right at the top of the perch, which i miss - the stuff above the tree is wierd b/c you have to climb up to clip into them before coming back down to the perch (guess you could just hang up there, but that's even wierder)- there is gear on the perch of course, but it's kinda funky and as newbies often fumble w/ the .9 below i want something damn solid to hold them in case - i usually end up using tree bolt setup for a top rope and build a gear anchor for myself at the perch
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[TR] Static Point (Sultan, WA) - Online and Lost Charms 8/15/2007
ivan replied to catbirdseat's topic in Alpine Lakes
just got out there for the first time last friday - had the whole place to ourselves for the whole day - woulda been nice to have had a guidebook 'sides nelsons as we mostly ended up climbing godknowswhat - wierd shit to walk away w/ totally fresh muscles in the arms and back, yet completly pumped out calves -
seems to be raining too hard here in camas right now to think about climbing at beacon - guess i'll have to wait till 2morrow to get my fix in and see what's what
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jeebus! where was he on the route when he fell? gear failure? as hard as blownout is, i've always thought "well, at least there's lots of gear on it"... raining alot today - i might head over after school today and see if i can't rap the route and clean it all out for you
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eunuchs are scarey
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[TR] Dragontail Peak - Backbone Ridge 7/29/2007
ivan replied to sweatinoutliquor's topic in Alpine Lakes
you could bivy in style at the notch below the fin, though it would ruin the style of the climb to haul much weight up it - there's usually a snow-field at the notch too you can leave the cramps and axe - if it's too icy to descend the backside, take the rap stations just below the summit down to the flat glacier