ivan

my pet goat

"conquistadors of the useless" by lionel terray is my favorite - i also like walter bonatti's stuff my fav quote from "conquistadors": "Philistines may think that we were madmen indeed to go through such suffering and danger to arrive at this lonely spot. What did you hope to find there, they may ask. Glory? Nobody cares about young fools who waste their best years in meaningless combats far from the eyes of the world. Fortune? Our clothes were in rags and next day we would go back down to a life of slaving for the barest essentials. What we sought was the unbounded and essential joy that boils in the heart and penetrates every fibre of our being when, after long hours skirting the borders of death, we can again hug life to us with all our strength. Nietzsche defined it thus: `The secret of knowing the most fertile experiences and the greatest joys in life is to live dangerously.'"

i've used both and prefer the old-school daisy n' fifi - releasing the tension on the adjustable and getting it back to it's main length is a pain in the ass to do over and over again compared to hooking in w/ the fifi, which is instantenous and effortless

why didn't frodo have these kinda fawking problems?

hey, that's how i lost my first wedding ring! jogging on the beach - didn't want the ring slipping off my sweaty fingers while running, so put in on a chain around my neck - last 100 yards i picked up the pace as fast as i could go only to have the jostling cause the clasp to come undone - ring falls on sand - my hand was 3 inches from grabbing it before the surf rolled over it, sending it all the way back to africa (but not until i dug up a damn acre of beach before throwing in the towel)

thanks for the advice bill - when i realized i'd probably eaten some of the oil and that it was breaking out all over my face i went to the doctor and got prednisone - time will tell how it works out, but in the meantime i'm feeling like running a goddamn marathon! woke up after 4 hours of sleep this morning ready to rock! my poor kids at school - i talk fast enough as is... back to the pt - more folks need to do jensens - brush out all the lichen for the stemming - cut out the oak at the trail exit (wish the park would do that, it's right on the railings)- putting in some modern anchors ain't a bad idea either and what's the deal w/ stephenwolf? is 10c really right for that roof right below big ledge? i wasn't even close to freeing that part! it must go back more than a body length, and no feet at all

wow - yeah, i musta got more oak on me then i thought at first - my face, hands and forearms are all beginning the process of the zombie melt-down - think this time i'll be taking the steroids before children start running from me n' crying

this time of year it's usually really icy

also heard the xavier master's wacked-out peyote story got the chop fawking retarded that all the adventure shit got the boot

yeah, but as long a drive from portland as to much better places in warshington

Trip: beacon rawk - jensens ridge n' stephenwolf Date: 9/15/2007 Trip Report: fantubulous day on the monolith - cool w/ a breeze - endless trains and the redneck across the river firing off several cannons every few minutes jensens needs to get climbed more - very, very fun - bring doubles of damn near everything up to #4, plus a #5 - the crack itself is clean but the stemming is all fucked up by the overabudance of lichen on the walls - the 3rd pithc is ecstatic fun up to the trail - plenty of poison oak to wade through just below the railings - the route needs anchor replacement and traffic and it'd be classic - at least where the anchor bolts are shitty there's like twenty to clip between s-wolf similiar silly fun - need to go someday when i can do the final pitches above big ledge - wish i was a real climber, had to use my patented french technique often - i heart fifi hooks - how the hell is the last 10 feet of the route up to big ledge not 11? jeebus! god i love beacon - the whole iraq war thing woulda been worth it to me if only we'd be able to keep the rock open yearround b/c of it! Gear Notes: bring a lot of everything, especially if yer lame like me Approach Notes: dog poo still on the trail

very silly, i tell you

the truth hurts yeah, so is the i-rock section expanded?? the 2nd edition didn't have much but some lame descriptions... no real need for a guide for the prg's outdoor site - the smallness of the wall and the chalk on every remotely concievably hold is plenty enough beta - and truly a fun place to climb too, just many notches below the magnificent beacon w/ all it's verticality and wildlife and vistas

fun area - fun times! ya'll did make camp at the cowboy camp! that old rusted stove just screamed home to us...

awesome pix - now that looks like mountaineering...

cool if you're soloing .8s at index, then i'd wager you'd feel totally cruiser on prusik

strike me down and i shall spray more powerfully than you can possibly imagine!

look - porter's spraying double!

you can have all the top-secret beta, you just have to take the siegfried oath first... ...and based on the dozen cars that frequently seem to be parked there (even when it's a beautiful day for beacon just a few more miles away) it's hardly secret, just not in a big guide-book

ok - i won't kill arno but i will do battle w/ him

whaaaaaat? dude - seriously that "exposed bit" is easy, easy, easy - have you soloed much rock before? if you have, i can't imagine it would freak you out and when soloing, when are you not really on an "exposed section?"

beacon rock! se corner young warriors anything, really you'll want a partner...

the interns will have to share a glock

anyone wanna climb at beacon 2day? i'm off work at 240...

round 3? bueller?