ivan

senator, i knew bill coe - i climbed w/ bill coe...

10/3 - day 37 - lap 19 just managed to squeeze this one in - leaden sky on the cursory drive out - limp air, sodden with coming rain - rumbled out of the ride right quick to make a mighty shit - by the time i reached the base the sky portended bad, bad things - fat raindrops by the halfway point up the slab pitch, the rock cold and clammy and quick to grow dramp - like the tears of the lord by the top of pitch 3, and noah alone could comprehend the deluge by the top of uprising - i hoofed it over the railing and found sanctuary under the ramps of the trail to take a pause n' have a smoke n' contemplate the hereafter fall's come quick - 20 laps was my goal, and in shah allah, we oughta be able to get it closer to 30 by the time the big endless breeze of december dances on in....

now that's some happy homo-shuffling there

if alpine's your thing, washington is your best locale - leavenworth is the dream, if you can make it work...

9/30 - day 36 - lap 18 thank kee-rist for opb fundraising - it got me off the libturd end of the radio dial on the drive in and i finally heard the song ole'bill had been badgering me to find for fuck-all - shit, i thought it was some old man tune [video:youtube] great shit there, couldn't help but remind me of another classic i got out at old beatardia from jovial jim [video:youtube] a friday evening packed w/ ominous portents - unknown agents acting nefariously in the nether-region of bladerunner, n' so wierd boy-o, as i done heard they're making a sequel today... passed a three-some at tree ledge - bespoke me beer n' noodled over the wicked world while making me big thoughts on mushroom ledge, then zoomed off to zion heart-attack at the car - couldn't find my car keys for the life of me - eventually remembered i'd arrived in the lot having to take a ten-pound shit ("warning - warp core breach in progress") - in my eager ecstasy to see it on its weary way, i done left the keys in the can friday night fuckers - stopped off for some wine and had a wonderful conversation w/ a former student who, though somewhat portly n' latina, is all set to vote trump

yup, that's the pitch - i have no idea if it ever had a name or what it would be - seems to me though that those who do it musta busted their nut too early and thus couldn't stick it to pitch 3 of the warrior, thus "premature ejaculation" pretty much fits the bill

9/29 - day 35 - geoff at the bk a bit after 330, me smoking n' reading shelby foote n' waiting - off east soon thereafter - we crawl up cruising to the corner to premature ejaculation, then up the rest of young warriors - an easy world out there really n' not much else to report, save i suppose some spiffy new bolts just off the stoner ledge...

9/28 - day 34 - lap 17 - big bill n' ujohn in the lot in the glittering afternoon sun - little time for frivolity, it's open house night after all bitzes - a quick lap - clusterfuck on the corner, i saw bill well ensnared in it by the time i cut the cord n' said let-hoes-be-hoes - the barge banging n' roaring away down by the river - big doings down there - big bounce back - they say there's no such thing as a free lunch, but it turns out there is such a thing as a free dinner

2 of spades on index middle summit queen of hearts on the north peak of index knave of diamonds on the main summit j'berg should be something truly scandalous - i'm thinking ace of spades nearly pitched off the crux of dark shadows at redrocks my last trip, pulling up to see a typical vegas street-card crammed into the fistcrack in my face

where's the best place for the 2 of spades i wonder?

9/27 - day 33 - lap 16 - never a lap up the rock that you don't rumble into something new, so long as you know where to look - today no different - at the bottom 2 buxom-splendid shielas at the start of cruising, at the trail atop 3 nattily attired saffron-clad buddhist monks, not quite chanting but wouldn't be surprised if that's where it all ended up on the summit

i'd have forgiven him if he hadn't defined the word "stamina" as like, you know, "stamina"

some others from ben n' geoff sunrise sunday in the sumptious shack - old man, old mountain your morning dose of lovely inspiration - ain't much lame-ass aiding to be had over yonder happy homos "add-a-bolt" ben on pitch 2 - yup, he suggested it

mega-fun - woe to the 2nd who pitches off at the crux and finds himself dangling in space w/ no way to lower off or get back in touch w/ the rock

9/24-25 - the crucial 13th step of rehab - me sick as a dog - the cabin on a stormy, swirly friday night - sweet cedar smoke in the fireplace - an early amble-off saturday soon after the crepuscular sky broke clear over rainier - no weight on the way down, but shockingly differnt on the way back up - all day drilling n' pounding n' perspiring, wrapped up in light down n' doubting the doom bound for us all rapunzel's panties are finally off, boys, and she's feeling mighty friendly - hopefully it won't be until the vernal times that we get back and between her thighs whipped and wasted, big bill n' i slave-hauled 5 ropes, excess bolts, drill, hammer, old beer cans, etc. back up the hill moments after the sun sidled over the western horizon - in darkness we stumbled, but soon found the light, even as the onery owls went hoot-hoot n' we saw the fucking silliness of dreams fulfilled... back to the lookout at 9 - a roaring fire roasting, i sat and shivered like a cancer-ridden old man, feverish and frigid - the beer and wine and wacky-tobaccy unable to touch the dying thing inside me - ben rambled in moments later and the embers glowed greater - giddiness and gawd-damn-it stories, then much later geoff's headlamps grew through the gloaming and we had ourselves a 4-alarm hootenanny bill tried to sleep through it all but cramps n' let-cry-havoc from the hillbillies-in-charge saw to that - well after midnight came quick, and finally we fell off, the cabin up to a neat 70 degrees by then, though the wind blew and the earth went-on wobbling its woozy way round its old drunken enemy... sunday a solid one - a sound sleep in - wicked hot by 9 as the soaring sun roasted us out of our fart sacks and sent us shuffling all over the summit with no sensible agenda eventually came back down to the valley and finally flagged a fine trail up to the base, despite some bastards in the pack sending their backwards glances from time to time n' casting dispersions against yer's truly - then sat on the couch-boulder w/ bill to behold the boys bumble-fuck their way up the first 2 pitches - did some reading, combed the talus for recent debris, set fire to some turpentine-soaked wood, n' generally had a boozy, woozy rest day of it all funny how these things work out...the 14th trip will be the 14th step of rehab, and that will be much as the first one i reckon

sad: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1151802/Re_RIP_Kim_Schmitz#Post1151802 i don't have my guidebook at work - i know he did a lot back in the day on the bacon-wand - what were his climbs?

wise sir do not grieve it is always better to avenge dear ones than to indulge in mourning for every one of us living in this world means waiting for our end let he who can achieve glory before death when a warrior is gone that will be his best and only bulwark

9/22 - day 32 - lap 15 - fell fall is here - decidedly cool and clammy road on the drive out in the afternoon, with a fading sun falling upon us all in this notoriously naughty northern half-fuck hemisphere of ours big doings down by the dock - a busty barge w/ a crane careened up on the big pylons just east of the launch, looking lofty n' ready to tear somethang up - still a free water-craft just off the beach down by the south face, unmoved for weeks but at least floating now that the river's come up - were i a wanderer, intent on distant shores, i'd say stake a claim, kids

i plan on dying like elvis, on the shitter, bible in hand, last log slowly circling the great hereafter

my understanding of the old advisory sign was that it was NOT like the current harshly threatening sign that annually appears on the east end of the parking lot saying "please don't throw rocks on the nice climbers below" ain't the same as saying "we will shove a giant legal cock up your ass if you do this" a perfectly sane case could be made for neither the threatening parking lot or the hypothetical railing sign being used - my point is simply that it's inconsistent - which is more important: threatening harsh actions against those who would in theory interfere with birds breeding, or against those who would kill their fellow man? i guess it's all fun and games until it goes way wrong - if nothing else, i sure shot like a fucking rocket through the exposed ground above grassy ledges today

9/20-21 - days 30&31 - laps 13-14 well, the bastards tried to kill me yesterday - 3 young fucks, according to witnesses i later found on the trail down, spent the better part of 20 minutes chucking huge shit off the south summit as i cowered against the wall on the land of the little people, nursing my beer, guarding my shoes and alternating howls of hatred w/ maniacal laughter and "fuck you fucking fucks!" at the top of my lungs even the falcons got into the act, screeching n' swooping - i felt something like a common cause in our anger against the common creeps just a thought, but if the park is okay w/ putting up menacing signs citing washington state law and the penalty for walking down the climbers trail in the off season, why not put a similar sign threatening arrest for reckless endangerment or manslaughter at the green gate or by the railing above the south side? i'd like to think if the stupid bastards had killed me that they'd have been punished at least as severely as some poor hiker who just felt like walking to the base on a fine spring day... jogged down the trail after emerging from my hidey-hole, my beer all gone and hungry for blood - probably for the best i didn't catch up, as it likely would have just resulted in 3 dudes kicking my dumb indignant ass better day today - steve n' sal above tree ledge - sounds like jim is on the mend and we all wish him well

9/19 - day 29 - lap 12 - took the boy scout camping on the coast and got poured on damn near every moment - headed out to beacon after work ready for dissapointment - hit the lot and followed a frolic-some couple who clearly though they were headed to the summit even as they slunk ever lower the rock was just dry enough to reckon on not getting kilt heading up it - moist to the touch, but no big drip-drips pleasant walk down, passing the breeze with a fierce looking shiela and her deaf-husband (which somehow i didn't suss out until the very end) from merry minnesota - she having the shortest of warm-ups before an ultramarathon tomorrow, sweet jeebus, who can touch that kinda krazy fitness?

very low energy

Stone soup? Uh......I don't think so awwww, shit...why so harsh? didn't you come up w/ the rather unimaginative "ivan's arete" once? fwiw, "stone soup" was a mighty fitting moniker - it was the product of a good number of folks, mostly i just stitched together their many contributions...