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Everything posted by ivan
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9/15 - day 28 - hadn't seen phuzzy adam since phuck all, but we met up in camas after some hard traveling for the burning-man boi over the tough portland roads balmy n' breezyish beacon - talk of time gone by - fucking puerto-ricans on the bucket list i recollect - bad beer - good beer - chuckles - the dying light on the gorge walls, the winding way back...
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yeah, the heat was a big problem for us - plus getting lost in whiteout trying to exit back down to the lake guess i gotta do the traverse sometime when it's not venusian...
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first ascent [TR] Tower Rock - FA - Rapunzel's Back in Rehab - C1 7/15/2015
ivan replied to ivan's topic in Southern WA Cascades
despite his avatar image, billcoe is, in fact, not a child tried talking geoff into going w/ you this weekend ole'boy, so that i could see the promised land w/o having to walk the last mile, like moses of old one way or the other, this fucking thing gets finished by next weekend -
9/12 - day 27 - lap 11 - finally some fine weather after work - feeling increasingly crippled as my hip disintegrates and i try to ignore it - gonna see the doc in a few days, so maybe he'll have a magic wand? beached sea-craft still on the columbian shore - are salvage rights yet in effect? think i see an entrepreneurial opportunity
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yet j'berg ultimately pales in comparision to the index traverse - that was a step up in the kick-in-the-bawls department - you boys done it yet?
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Body of Missing climber found + Dragontail Rescue
ivan replied to olyclimber's topic in Climber's Board
for every one of us living in this world means waiting for our end let he who can achieve glory before death when a warrior is gone that will be his best and only bulwark -
first ascent [TR] Tower Rock - FA - Rapunzel's Back in Rehab - C1 7/15/2015
ivan replied to ivan's topic in Southern WA Cascades
9/10-11 - trip 12 - jesus, will it never end? sigh...thought one last trip would do it...guess not - now that i'm back in the working world a weekend just ain't as long as it used to be first week back to school - only got summoned to the principal's office once - apparently "don't be an asshole" is not considered professional no'mo bill scooped me up friday afternoon ahead of schedule and we zoomed north, shooting the breeze n' feeling the heady breeze of a halycon life - bedded down by a creek and had an hour to read n' drink n' contemplate the coming of the end saturday up n' earlish - breakfasted on cold cheeseburgers n' bare faced bald lies - bumbled up the broken road, just 4 miles to the new-found good trail shuffled on sideways and down and soon we were there, much mo'betta than the other way - our cached rope n' drill n' whatnot no worse for our wearisomre toils in the cocked-up here between did so very much want to get it all done this day, but it wasn't to be - after descending about 150 meters off the summit, with a 60 meter stretch left to fill in, i tussled with the terrorific orange band - it runs across most of the face of tower and is biggest on the left side, by the awful weeping porthole that awes one so by the quiet cispus' side in the orange band the rock is wicked fresh - some of the rock crumbles under the touch - most everything is a block detached from the wall and headed downhill - spent a long time trying to pick a way through, but only got halfway done before it was time to start heading back up bill put in a half pitch above the low-point - enjoyed a beer and trundling everything in sight - the battery then died and we bounded up, reclimbing one pitch rather than do the mother-of-all hatefuck overhanging jug lovely night, waiting for the rain - fuck'n hummus n' pbr n' shelby foote - bedded down ready for the great deluge that then did not appear sunday dawned drizzly n' half-heartedly we set to finish it up, knowing there was no way - the summit saddled in clouds, we dropped down just the same, set to finish up bill's half-completed pitch at least that's what came of it, through the rain and what-have-you - just a hair over a pitch left to fill in... fun drive back - crowds by the bone-yard and the road-side shrines - christ, we'll be dead by tuesday... -
my favorite n cascade climb - is there any another with a 15 minute approach?
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9/8 - day 26 - first day of school this tuesday and for the 2nd year in a row my ritual of closing out the day w/ a beacon ascent was scuppered by rain - got out today w/ my colleague jared_jackman, who amazingly knows denali-dave and even fracking lived in the no-bo-trifecta for a spell, yet somehow never climbed at beacon? pleasant crawl up the corner in the cool breeze - woulda been pleasanter still if my trick hip didn't hurt so damn much - my grave keeps getting closer n' closer 2 things i'd never seen at beacon today - a, by beacon standards, big-ass snake coiled up in the hidden-treats crack, right at the top, really putting me off my meds as i like to jam there very much - the other a decent sized powerboat beached on the riverside, looking real grim n' all-to-seek off to tower w/ big bill tomorrow - in shah allah, we'll see the long project come to completion finally...
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first ascent [TR] Tower Rock - FA - Rapunzel's Back in Rehab - C1 7/15/2015
ivan replied to ivan's topic in Southern WA Cascades
sorry'bout that bill, i did deny you your august credit, didn't i? ole jimbo's got me always looking over my shoulder trying not to attract the attention of the internuts police -
nice to be reminded the alpha monkey of planet earth is made out of meat just like the rest of us - sounds like he still had a pretty nasty injury
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i feel like this everyday i wake up in the morning
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pix, or it didn't happen also...is there a current known speed record for this ascent?
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you know its not ghey so long as you don't look, right?
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fuck you fucking fucks
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first ascent [TR] Tower Rock - FA - Rapunzel's Back in Rehab - C1 7/15/2015
ivan replied to ivan's topic in Southern WA Cascades
if the route's complete after this weekend ya'll should come w/ 2 weekends later and be part of the first ascent -
THANK YOU FOR TO ALLOW HIPPIES TO EAT!
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first ascent [TR] Tower Rock - FA - Rapunzel's Back in Rehab - C1 7/15/2015
ivan replied to ivan's topic in Southern WA Cascades
i'd hope to have a raging big party to commemorate the first complete ascent - 2 or 3 teams of 2 would be sick as we could set up a car shuttle and rock the lookout the fuck out that said, it ain't done yet - maybe one more weekend trip and it'll be ready -
first ascent [TR] Tower Rock - FA - Rapunzel's Back in Rehab - C1 7/15/2015
ivan replied to ivan's topic in Southern WA Cascades
9/3-4 - hop #11 -thought this might be the trip we finally got the fucker done, but it turns out one more ride on the merry-go-death-round is in order headed up on a rainy, dismal friday night - smooth sailing and an easy passage well lubricated with burgundy n' the baleful observations of a hopped-up howard stern once again amazed to arrive at the lookout on a friday night, this one a memorial day weekend to boot, without a soul in the joint - nobody there saturday night neither - holy shit it's the goddess decadence dressed up as a demesne - as the frigid wind wailed outside and the cloud murk crept by it was sure that summer was spent and fall was fey upon us all, but inside the firebox glowed a gaudy orange and the good humor of easy life laid upon the walls had a bit of a lazy saturday morning as it was maybe 40 degrees and bitter breezy outside with visibility measured in meters - lounged n' coffeed n' read some shelby foote eventually we resigned ourselves to a rare auold rough up and rambled down the road and stumbled down the steep hillside - threw ourselves over the cliff-edge and then put in a new pitch on super-steep and sometimes friable rock with wild exposure our duty done for the day, retraced our steps and had another capital evening in the cabin as once again the weather closed in sunday dawned a bit better than the day before so we got an earlier start - put in another pitch and finally got to a spot where we could clearly see all that's left to do - one more steep pitch of 60 meters, than a ledgy pitch of 25 meters or so and the fucking thing is finite excellent diversion on a dark and dismal night and of course no descent down that doomed road is complete without belting out at least one willie-tune [video:youtube] -
shall we take this to the fight thread? shit, i'd think loving a man is more like loving a heroin habit
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i believe the answer you seek is yes and yes-plus and also maybe germany
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after jerking off, i rarely want to fight
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loving a baseball team is like loving a woman...bound to end in heartache and pain...
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8/30 - day 25 - lap 10 - fall came to beacon today - blustery and overcast and sub-70 in the parking lot - no pre- or post-lap swim today first day of back to school - waking up at 630 is a hate-crime against mankind and should be constitutionally banned for krist's sake - felt quite greyed out on the quick ascent - chatted w/ cameron for a spell half-way up the first pitch - found a half-full pack of american spirits on the traverse (that you, santa claus? ) - by the time i hit the trail the sun emerged and it was brisk but balmy for the walk down as churchill lamented when confronted with how much booze he'd belted down over the course of his long life: "sigh...so much work left to do!"