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Everything posted by ivan
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sounds like yer talking about this'un: that's fresh squeeze - did a tr w/ plenty of fine swear words but not too many cuss'n pictures a few years back: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=836352 would be happy to repeat it w/ you 8-ball, should you need a partner - if you want to free it, should start by tr'ing it (or eating a lot of fuckign wheaties) as leading it is really asking to die as the pro is shit for a long time and a fall will put you into the column top - also, the upper pitch looks good, but needs a hedge-clipper and probably a chisel to release from its vegatation-captation - the anchor at that point is kinda crap as i recall too, but it's not too hard to traverse into big ledge from there
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the only solution is to cut the route in half w/ explosives i fear
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look shittier for aiding b/c you can't clip/fifi as close to the piece as w/ a camalot
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x2 for birds in a rut - long walk out to the marsupials but you'll have no crowd and a sweeeeet view back of the entire park, plus the top pitch is way cool, neon-green lichen n' solid moderate crack climbing - 5 pitches i think, but most are pretty short
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wtf? heard someone had their 4 year old top-roping the 1st pitch of the corner saturday evenign too!
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probably the same kinda dumb bastard that sawed through my gas line to steal 5$ of fuel and potentially blow themselves up in the process?
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i don't like gay people near me when i'm killing kids, okay!?!
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agree - it's nice the colors match the approximate size of bd camalots, but they're no lighter than c4s, the triggers are wierd, and its pretty rare to just need 2 lobes engaged in cracks that wide (the smallest 2 sizes of totems are about yellow alien to red alien - guess they're not making anything smaller, though that seems to be frequently where the hard aid is?) the super flexibility of hte cam is cool, but not enough to justify the added expense i reckon so, the work just fine if someone has them on their rack, but i wouldn't go tracking them down to buy.
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for every one of us living in this world means waiting for our end let he who can achieve glory before death when a warrior is gone that will be his best and only bulwark
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Me and Arent rapped in two portaledges. Check out FB. Not sure how we pulled it all off with out Ivan singing and bumming smokes, but somehow, we managed... doesn't look like there was enough room to fit my extra-large ballz anyhowz
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nice, someone hauled up a portaledge too?
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don't listen to any of these old bastard boi - beg for forgiveness n' get yer ass out beyotch!
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i thought that was the navy? for the air-force you just need to be a coward, or an adrenaline freak w/ perfect vision who also likes golf
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nonsense - excellent call you didn't come bill! otherwise you'd been behind me on jensen's, talking buckets of shit about a performance fully worth the commentary yer totem cams served well - their high-speed aid-rigability luckily needed no testing
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[TR] Beacon Rawk - Jackanapes on Jensens Ridge 11/15/2008
ivan replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
2 years later and another lap, this time w/ the irascible powderhund - nice to have a ropegun along to go first and use all those grabby things to get the line up there for me reckon no one's done the optional first pitch this year as it was grassy, grassy and scary as ever - need to remember to just always do the original 1st pitch as this fawker is skerry 1st time i've seen poison oak growing on the route proper, just above the the crux traverse at the pin - gave me the necessary excuse to lower off n' let bryan have it eager dood that he is, the 'hund had to have the left variation of the last pitch, shown below - the olson guide mentions "there are two variations here, both 5.9+" but seems absure that the left option would be considered anywhere near .9 bryan made short work of it though, and i found a good way up the ridge to avoid the thickets of oak now, here's to waiting a few hrs to see if the oak-gods must have their sacrifice - easy to avoid on the last pitch, but at the actual base, if you do the red ice/whatever variation, its hard to setup and belay w/o tangling w/ it - there was a bush on route on that pitch too, which means the whole area deserves a roundup explosion did i mention i like the hardman retro-70s thang that seems to be the rage? - powderhund totally rocking the 'stache w/ the shag sweater n' cop glasses - half the teenie-bopping bitches on the trail down seemed willing to crack a pelvis for him if only it might slow his descent! -
you mean third party gift bundles? if we're gonna send anythign else to the middle east, can it just be a truly gargantuan supply of valium, 'cuz those bitches could all seriously use some chill-pills, no?
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:lmao: but he does have the next hawt thang in cam technology, so gotta get keep him on the farm!
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nah, bill uses one too, though at least it gets changed weekly - does blow goats on a slow machine
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john waters?
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Climb Saturday....Barad Dur.....Or whatever else
ivan replied to powderhound's topic in Climbing Partners
gotta stay local saturday but have the whole day - was planning on soloing but would dig on seeing an obscure beacon aid/hardman route freed - pipedream? pipeline headwall? silver crow? i was planning on doing the complete wild turkey if no-one popped up - i assuem you have slain excalibur and borderline or whatever that other hard route is up on beacon towers already? no one's freed the 4 hardest pitches of stone soup out there yet... -
gw couldn't have done 9/11 b/c it actually went according to plan
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And death shall have no dominion. Dead mean naked they shall be one With the man in the wind and the west moon; When their bones are picked clean and the clean bones gone, They shall have stars at elbow and foot; Though they go mad they shall be sane, Though they sink through the sea they shall rise again; Though lovers be lost love shall not; And death shall have no dominion.
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moderates of the world unite!!! but the meeting's gotta be after 5 when i'm done w/ work, and over by 6 so i can get the kids to soccer, dig? i don't care how many bolts are there, just that the ones that are there are reliable - i'd like there to be enough bolts so it could be aided at least, which doesn't sound like more than what was originally there in the first place, eh?