Alpinfox

Shock is a general term for inadequate cardiovascular function. It can be thought of in layman's terms as "not having enough fluid (blood) in the pipes (vessels and heart)" to maintain enough pressure to adequtely circulate fluid thorughout the system. It can be caused by many things. The three types related to trauma are: Hypovolemic shock: blood loss. Not enough fluid in the pipes due to a leak of fluid. Neurogenic shock: damage to central nervous system which controls blood pressure, HR, vascular tone, etc. causing subsequent drop in blood pressure. The pipes dilate, thereby becoming bigger, and then there isn't enough blood to fill them and generate enough pressure to get good perfusion. Psychogenic shock: I don't understand the physiology behind this one very well, but I think of it as a Neurogenic shock induced by a psychological trauma. The end result is the same. Nervous system dysfuction causes vessels to dilate. Big pipes, not enough fluid = low pressure. Psychogenic shock is very common and was the most likely form of shock the individual in the Little Si incident was experiencing. Basic treatment for these types of shock includes: controlling bleeding, positioning patient with feet raised (don't do this if they have head trauma) which increases blood volume+pressure in the torso+head, keeping the patient warm, reassuring/comforting patient (especially important for psychogenic shock), administering oxygen, and packaging and transporting to hospital. There are other forms of shock... anaphylactic, septic, etc. GOOD LINK Another good link explaining physiological of BP regulation LINK 2

OMG! DRUNK BEFORE NOON! LOL! RIP IT UP!

Bolts ahoy mateys! Fuckin' sport route outta be chopped. ARRRRRRRRRRGH!

1. I don't think the increased range is advantageous because it means you can carry less cams (though that may be true in some situations), I think it's advantageous because you are more likely to be able to get the first cam you grab off your rack to fit in the crack when you are pumped and about to peel off. 2. You can't clip in short with WC Friends. So yes, that is relevant to the present discussion. 3. I guess we agree. 4. C4 camalots are significantly lighter than the old camalots and I think they are comparable to other cams on the market now. 5. A 24% price difference per cam IS irrelevant over the lifetime of a cam and should NOT be the deciding factor in rock climbing/safety gear equipment selection.

Camalots have dual axle = more range C4 camalots you can clip in short for aid climbing C4s have the smoothest action and best handling of any cam on the market C4s are lighter (I think) than WC friends Price difference is negligible. c4 Camalots. No, I'm not sponsored by BD, but I wish I wuz. If I could climb M13 like Roger, maybe they'd choose me. I would prefer if BD put an extendable sling on the camalots like the DMM cams. BTW, this should be in the Gear Critic forum, not Newbies.

That's a great first post captain factoid.

I hear if you pour hot water into the nalgene first, your breath will melt snow a lot faster. Good tip to know in a survival situation.

I think it was Sprayshaw in the Coulior with the Pink Tricam!

Have some time off, some patience, good safety skills, and wanna climb with Beckey? He's got some time before he heads to AK and wants to escape the WA weather forecast for 7-10 days or so. Lemme know and I'll pass on the info.

BTW, back the original subject of this thread, click HERE for a good example of a lightweight rack for easy alpine rockclimbs. Take more gear if 5.6 is going to be challenging for you (a few extra nuts and hexes are really light), less if you feel comfortable running it out. Take lots of slings (some double length) and a couple cordelettes. Lots of horns and boulders and such that you can tie off. A lighterweight 50m rope should be plenty good enough for this route. Remember to test the rock that you place your gear in. That great looking parallel-sided crack that you just placed your cam in could just expand or fall apart if weighted. Alpine rock isn't usually as solid as craggin' rock.

OK. ... but I doubt this person's recommendation endangered anyone. "WRF?? OH YEAH, JUST TAKE FOUR #5 CAMALOTS AND SOME QUICKDRAWS!"

Nah, let the recommendations fly! Quality is quality. 5.6 can be too. Edit: Case in point - the East ridge of Wolfshead (III, 5.6) looks awesome:

Yes, she's done Minnesotan-style multi-pitch clambering before.

The GF can follow 5.10, so it doesn't have to be too "chill". She is CORE, yo. However, it does have to be OMG-Blow-your-hair-back awesome climbing though.

I'm quite sure that everyone posting in this thread thus far has climbed WRF at least once, with some illustrious posters having climbed in even MORE than twice!! OMG!

Yeah, I nearly tripped over a grizzly cub and got my tent trampled by a bull moose last time I was in Yellowstone/Tetons.

Sounds like the Big Sandy Road (access to Cirque of Towers) is not open yet. Any idea when it usually opens? John Frieh tells me that we might be early for the Elephant's Perch area as well. Too much snow. How early have ya'll climbed there? As for Vedauwoo, I don't think the GF would enjoy runout, sandbagged, off-width climbing. And if she would, I'd probably come up with some other excuse to avoid having to go there and lead stuff. Devil's Tower might be cool but is a long drive. Hey MCash, can you give me a link to more info on "Chimney" in N. ID? I've never heard of it.

If homeless folks are messing with an 8ft tall guy named with the nickname "Ivan", we are all in trouble.

My GF and I are headed east this weekend for about two weeks. Where should we go? What should we climb? What non-climbing things should we do? I've been to COR twice and the Tetons once. She has been to neither.

Post deleted by Alpinfox

Living on a moon colony would be cheaper than Freemont.

A sopping wet bush needs a trim? I'll get right on that.

not the clone.