Alpinfox

Yeah, there must be some good information on teh internut somewhere about this route, it's too bad its so hard to find. It would be so nice if I could just type in a few words and have some kind of keyword search program go find the information for me. Well, until that pipedream is a reality, I'll give you all the beta you need and even guide you up the thing for $200.

Yeah, that was pretty much the take home message. Here's an image of a phytobezoar for your contemplation:

YOU ARE FUCKING DOOOOOOOMED!!!! Bezoar OK, link doesn't seem to be working:

HONK!

I'd discourage getting a 70m rope; it's just extra weight to carry. On most alpine climbs (especially ridge climbs which dominate the sub 5.9 choices) your pitches will be short. Usually shorter than 50m, but I think a 60m rope is a good length because a lot of rappels are set up for 30m. Other than that, I think you are correct that any of those ropes will get the job you describe done.

The (clever and hilarious) continutation of this thread that the moderators chose to move elsewhere

You are starting to use cc.com inside jokes. This is not a good sign. Probably time to step away from the keyboard and get some fresh air. Get out while you still can.

Wow, that's some Colorado-caliber scree/talus. Don't see that in WA too often.

Ah yes, everyone always points to Job 1:1-5, 7-10 when the subject of skinny cords comes up: Job 1:1-5 and 7-10 1 There happened to be a man in the land of Uz whose name was Job; and that man proved to be blameless and upright, and fearing God and turning aside from bad. 2 But lo unto him, one day he needed to rappel an alpine route 3 God said unto him, I give thee three strands to choose. The first being 8.9 microcubits in breadth, the second being 9.1 microcubits, and "the phatty" 9.2 microcubits with sick middle marks. This is my REVELATION unto you. 4 Choose correctly and I will make your livestock to be seven thousand sheep and three thousand camels and five hundred spans of cattle and five hundred she-asses, along with a very large body of servants; and that man came to be the greatest of all the Orientals. 5 Choose incorrectly and you'll spend eternity having to debate with CBS about relative knot strengths and discussing digital photo editting with Gary_Yngve while Michael_Layton humps your leg and Ivan shits in your water bottle. ... OMG! I'm on the edge of my seat!!! What will Job choose! ... 7 Then Job said to Satan: “Which strand would you choose?” At that Satan answered Job and said: “From roving about in the earth and from walking about in it, fuck if I know, they seem about the same to me.” 8 And Job went on to say to Satan: “Dude, this one has sick middle marks and is totally phatty compared to the rest.” 9 At that Satan answered Job and said: “Is it for nothing that Mammut has called it the Revelation? 10 So when you have to carry a rope into the remotest bowels of the earth and rappel off a tied off RURP and an alder twig and shit, heed The Revelation and thusly your house and everything around you will be blessed, and your livestock itself will spread abroad in the earth.

Catbird, Please describe a "job" where one of those ropes, but not the others, would be appopriate. Bonus points for charts and diagrams. I like Mammut ropes and have the Revelation and like it just fine. I'd probably go with whichever one you can get for the least $$$.

Annotated:

which routes did you do? I've only climbed there once, and while I was completely unimpressed, I don't remember being annoyed by the bolting, just the choss, trash, brush, and confusing "trail" system. Nice views though:

Come to think of it, Hansel did take "a growler" at the base of CBR. PM me for his number if you wanna bitch him out. I bet he'd be happy to provide you with a stool sample if you wanna test it and find out if he was the cuplrit. For the record, both Hansel and I drank >1L out of the Aasgard stream and didn't get sick.

This TR is HOTT!! <---Click!

Will do buddy. Gotta go eat, then I'll spend the rest of the weekend working on your TR's post count. Cheers!

Yes, Mother Theresa was obviously as good a person as there has been in modern times. I'd be happy to donate money/time to her work if she were still alive. p.s. And Raindawg, you are correct that there are more proactive, creative, and meaningful ways that I could combat the message and goals of these bigots, but it's pretty easy for me to click the mouse a few times and (maybe) cause some harm to my enemy in my free time at work.

I feel sorry for the brainwashed grandmas fed a steady diet of "American Society is rotting away at it's core and only your donations and prayers that will enable us to do God's work and fight satan" who fund these bigotted, hypocritical asshats like Dobson, but I'm still happy to take some money out of their coffers. I hope it limits their ability to spread their "message" and do their "work". I don't lump all Christians in with Dobson - most are even dumber. Christian dogma is a fairy tale. Opiate for the masses. Bedtime story for simple minds. That said, there are some Christians who have done great stuff and have a more sophisticated worldview than God as a vengeful father figure in heaven with a white beard sitting on a throne, and those folks are decent human beings despite their kooky philosophical handicapp.

There are innumerable "choose your own adventure" routes up in that area. Temple Ridge, etc. Another alternative would be to do the easy hike/scrambles up Little Annapurna and Dragontail. You'd cover lots of ground and get lots of great views.

"My friend went to Olympia for vacation, and all I got was this lousy banana hammock."

Chaco

Huh?

I agree with everything in your second post. In your first post I thought you were saying that a prusik below your device would prevent/save you if you rapped off the end of a rope. I disagree with that, but apparently I misinterpreted and that's not what you were saying. I do agree that I wouldn't expect a prusik above the device to very often save folks who rap off the end of the rope, but some people espouse that system for that reason. I think the best reason to use a prusik backup while belaying is to stop you should you for some reason let go of the rope (hit by rock knocking you unconcious etc). In that situation, the prusik above or below the device would do the job equally well in my opinion. Another good reason is if you are doing a long and/or free-hanging rappel on slick, skinny cords. As I've said before, I almost never use a prusik backup. As I've also said before, I'm not a certified guide, so if you want a more official answer, I'd encourage you to talk to a UIAGA or AMGA guide. There are a few that post on here.

Goddamnit, I told you they weren't fringed!

A prusik below your device ain't gonna help much when the rope ends slip through your belay device (the ends will have already gone through your prusik). I disagree with this. The tendency to grip while falling, thus preventing the prusik from catching, would still be a problem.

Yes JayB, it's true. Almost every single one of my friends is a liberal, "conservative"-hating, tree-hugging, atheist, anti-government, conspiracy theorist. It's true I'm not open minded or receptive about the christian fundamentalists' religious/political agenda. I oppose it vehemently and consider anyone who espouses it to be my enemy. I do however hold Voltaire's statement, "I may disagree with your opinion but will fight to the death for your right to express it" as a personal credo. Then again, in the words of The Reverend Samuel L. Jackson, "YES THEY DESERVE TO DIE, AND I HOPE THEY BURN IN HELL!!!"