Alpinfox

I occasionally unclip a quickdraw from a lower piece of gear and moved it to a higher piece of gear leaving the quickdraw attached to the rope during the process. I think it is more awkward and strenuous to pull up the rope with the quickdraw than with my hand. I think this is due to the friction of the rope running through the biner.

Your calculation is not correct. It's pretty tricky to calculate the peak force felt by an anchor in a real climbing scenario because of rope stretch, friction at the top biner, and other elasticity in the system. Keep in mind that you are not stopped instantaneously, but over some amount of time. That said, the value you are looking for is, roughly, the kinetic energy (KE) at the moment of impact which is found by 0.5mv^2. So you have to figure out what your velocity is first. Velocity is the square root of 2Gh where G is ~10m/s^2 and h is the height in meters that you fell. Dave's "Fall Force Machine" will come close to answering your question: www.alpinedave.com Click on fall force machine This one is nice because it allows you to change the variables of the fall such as rope stretch and distances between belayer, top piece of gear, and climber. I don't think he has included some variables (like friction on the biners) in his formula, but it's pretty close. If you are interested in a more ideal physical system and some of the math behind the system, check out this link: http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/flobi.html Some other equations of interest: To determine how fast you are going after falling for a known time: v = g * t To determine how far you fall in a given time: d = 0.5 * g * t^2

Hey, I just found this TR. I guess I haven't been keeping up with cc.com the way I used to. Anyway, you are welcome. Cheers. I hope Patagonia treats you well! Nick, what the hell are you up to these days? Chimney bouldering in the snow with hexes on the belt and a recent hernia operation? Priceless!

What? You don't like moss, slime, lichen, and low-angled chossy rock? Boy, you're hard to please.

The pictures in old TRs don't show up anymore. Is there some way to fix this? For example, in my Backbone Ridge TR, none of the pictures show up. I resized all of my Backbone pictures with the plan to reinsert them, but the thread is too old so I can't edit it anymore. Can a mod help me with this?

Hey Bug! I don't know why, but I never found this TR until now. I really like the way you spelled my name about four or five different ways - all incorrectly. Champagne (with extension along the ridgetop) is a great adventure climb and a worthy backup plan for when SCW is too busy or you are looking for something a little different. One should definitely be prepared for the ledges as the views and setting are remarkable. Here is a picture of the 5.8 slanting hand crack/dike thing on the crest of the ridge that Bugsy led.

Baker.... Rainier.... what's the difference really? Plexus: Those pics were taken from the top of Powerline Wall and we (or at least I) saw Dallas.

Nice!

Nice pics Gary. I thought about heading up to Red Mtn yesterday, but opted for rock climbin' at Erie instead. So how far did you get? That first section is probably the toughest in winter.

Well, I'd wager your grandmother hasn't spent the last few seasons in Antartica and I'd also wager that your grandmother ain't as good of a photographer as this guy so STFU.

Yes indeed, it was a beautiful day out at Mt. Erie yesterday. It was sunny and warm and wonderfully scenic.

Ya'll were at Erie yesterday? Olyclimber and I had a great time stumbling around in the mud + sticker bushes while lost, but finally found Powerline Wall and climbed a few routes. We only saw three other people all day - Dallas Kloke and two bumbly kids. Where were you? Erie/Vantage/Tieton/Smith/Index/X32/X38 can all provide winter rock climbing opportunities. Just need a sunny day or two. Erie, being south-facing and at sea level is probably one of the warmer and faster-drying options. Stone Gardens and Vertical World are usually warm and dry as well.

I got a nice e-card from Squid!

YEEHAW! Thanks for sharing. Remember to post pictures when you get them. Great trip report! (except for the "checked Hood off in the book" part). There are other interesting routes on the mountain and the North Face will likely be very different should you ever choose to repeat it. Thanks!

The most recent R&I has a picture (taken by our own AlpineDave) of the IB route with Priess' route drawn in, as well as a letter from Preiss describing his route. Preiss also has a letter to the editor in Alpinist 8 making fun of the holier-than-thou attitude of Twight & House.

Great report! Thanks Mark. Sorry to hear about the pack.

A friend of mine is going to try the first winter ascent of a cascade peak tomorrow.

Mr.E does not have the software nor the wizardry to create such a masterpiece.

Explain please?

This was most likely a mountain lion. Check THIS WEBSITE and listen to the cougar and bobcat sounds (try "cougar6") to see if you can find a match.

We spent one day bouldering at the Buttermilks:

We're back you moss-infested, web-footed, PNW-livin'-forest trolls! I've got flip-flop tan lines on my feet! YEAH FOR ME!!! HAHAHAHA. p.s. The climbing was ver gut. Blue skies, warm granite (or quartz monzonite, whatever ), and funky-ass trees:

According to Shane MacGowan (the undisputed expert on personal hygeine) the correct sequence is: A shit, a shave, a shower, and a half a' pint of Powers. Cheers Beyotches!

It's chilly and a little breezy tonight. I be freezin' my nizzzuts off! Really nice during the day though. We got a little "off w00t" today.