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Alpinfox

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Everything posted by Alpinfox

  1. When I'm asking; "Should I take crampons or not?", alluminum crampons are a great compromise. I know they won't get me up everything that steel pons would, but I think they have saved my bacon once or twice because I had them when I wouldn't have taken steel pons. Descending from dragontail last Aug/Sept across a very hard snowfield with big exposure for example. Any time one is rock climbing but needs to carry pons for the descent or approach, I'd be likely to carry Al pons, except maybe girth pillar or something where you have steep ice to climb to get to the rock, then I'd go with steel. I also like Al pons on mellow snow slogs (SF Hood, SS Adams, Emmons on Rainier, etc). And, I'm not the climber that Jim Nelson is, but he did the NW Coulior on Eldo in Al pons. Iain, I'm curious about the accidents in which you suspect Al pons being the cause. Could you elaborate? No names necessary of course. Just the facts man.
  2. This winter climb has pretty low avalanche potential and I'm gonna be there tomorrow:
  3. This is good advice. I was up in the Alpental Basin last August and there was no snow around, but I said to myself, "SELF!, Don't let your guard down, 'cause that's when an avalanche will gitcha!" And due to my mindfulness, I was able to avoid being killed by an avalanche. Thank you for allow sarcastic fox to post. p.s. Skykilo said, "hirsuite3.14159"
  4. Playboy Fo' Sho' THE SHIRT
  5. Damn BP, you've scored a lot of booty at Index!
  6. Here is an awesome Geezer: LINK The full article in the magazine is a lot more interesting than the link above. In it the guy has a lot of wise and inspirational things to say about living one's life to the fullest. He also tells a story about taking Pope John Paul II for a ride on his dogsled pulled by a team of dogs, one of which was named "satan".
  7. Yeah, bodyweight placement at best. I wouldn't let their ability to be placed passively be the deciding factor in your choice of cams. Get the ones that you like the feel of the best - or the ones you get a screamin' deal on. Personally, I think the new BD C4 cams are the best in the biz, but I haven't tried the trangos (available May 2005). Trango MaxCams 0.5 - 0.7in-1.4in - 3oz .75 - 0.8in-1.6in - 4oz 1.0 - 1.0in-2.0in - 4.7oz 2.0 - 1.3in-2.6in - 5.3oz 3.0 - 1.7in-3.4in - 7.1oz 4.0 - 2.4in-4.9in - 9.9oz BD C4 Camalots: .5 = .79in - 1.32in - 3.5oz .75 = .96in - 1.6in - 4.1oz 1 = 1.2in - 2.04in - 4.8oz 2 = 1.48in - 2.56in - 5.6oz 3 = 2.04in - 3.24in - 7.2oz 4 = 2.64in - 4.56in - 9.9oz 5 = 3.44in - 5.92in - 13.6oz 6 = 4.56in - 7.8in - 19.9oz Comparing the charts above, the trangos seem to be the better choice.
  8. Certainly not! Blue and black should NEVER be worn together.
  9. That West Buttress trail could really use some work. Not too many bears there either, so I think it would be a good project. Good luck.
  10. Alpinfox

    ablation zone

    Interesting that the Sitkum Glacier was used as the example of a "safe" glacier to be on unroped. I punched through a snowbridge while descending unroped on the lower Sitkum one hot afternoon. Luckily my backpack stopped me and I only went in up to my waist, but both feet were swinging in free space.
  11. An all night push eh? Good on ya!
  12. Oh man that looks sweet. Too bad its getting buried in snow right now. Is that crux pitch really 4-? How steep is it?
  13. Stoney G's: Fist crack in TR area: 5.10- Off-finger/thin hands in TR area: 5.10+ (only the first two moves are hard) Overhanging hand crack: 5.10+ Vertical hand crack: 5.8 Overhanging finger crack near entrance: I've heard 5.13? I don't know anyone who has done it. But I think it's more of a shallow, flaring, thin hand crack isn't it? UW Rock: Coach's Crack: 5.8 I don't know UW rock that well UWMC Pedestrian Overpass Crack: 5.9+ (it's a little wide and slick) UW IMA Gym: The cracks on the tall wall are hard. I haven't climbed them enough to rate 'em, but one of them I tried was at least 5.11-. BofA Crack (on Univ. Ave): 5.8+, but painful due to sharp bricks and nasty due to tar in the back of the crack
  14. Alpinfox

    SUCK

    So back to the original topic of this thread. The weather forecast for the weekend has gotten even WORSE! What am I supposed to do this weekend? My socks are already alphabetized!
  15. That was supposed to be "proto" meaning primitve ancestor, not "Proteo" meaning protein. Typo. Viruses that have had a long history of interaction with their hosts are usually not lethal. It is actually to a virus' evolutionary advantage to NOT kill its host. It is when a virus makes the jump from one species to another and has not yet adapted to replicate in the new host without causing harm that these killer viruses result. Therefore, by xenovirus, I meant a virus like HIV that is basically a simian virus, but within recent evolutionary history has infected humans. The truth behind all of this is that I just wanted to use a bunch of big words.
  16. Hey I lost a purple T-shirt there a while back. Was that it? Are there any snaffles living in it? Cuz if so, you can keep it. I'll take that matchbox car if it's full of cargo though.
  17. The answer to both is people. Viruses (yes even Marburg) can be latent in humans for years. Additionally, there is a ready stock of the proteo-xenovirus in an unsurveiled animal species; likely the chimpanzee.
  18. Bump Ah... Now that's some good trask.
  19. While some interesting questions were raised in this post, they are obviously not the questions of the day in virology. This demonstrated lack of familiarity with the contemporary issues of our subject does not speak well for this candidate's potential for success in our company. I do not suggest pursuing his recruitment further. Sincerely, -Virogen HR
  20. S'up Snugs, Yo, I been mackin' dis bitch fo' a LONG ass time and I finally got me sum a dat. But now dat bitch be axin' me today if she can be leavin' her toofbrush in my baffroom an' shit! Can you belief dat!??! So, my question izzz, How I teach dis bitch to be respectin' my shit? Peace, -Disrespected Pimp Fox
  21. Dear Snugs, I have a female friend who has gone on a popular internet chat site and invited thousands of sex-deprived guys to send her personal messages. Should I warn her that she might be overwhelmed? Sincerely, -Concerned
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