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Everything posted by Alpinfox
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There are rap anchors all the way down. The first anchor is about 40ft to the left and well below the OS topout. It looks like it would be a little intimidating to get to the first anchor from the top of SCW, especially since that spot can be a little dirty, but I saw some folks do it last time I was on OS. I don't know why people dislike the walk off so much. It's really not that bad.
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Great adventure! What route did you descend? How long were you in AK total? Did you climb anything else? Where did your original line go on the photo? Congrats!
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"I wore this thing to the Ani DiFranco concert, and the crowd went wild"
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Hey Olympia climber, Wanna go climbing in Squamish next weekend?
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Hey, Congrats on living another year. Here are some images to keep you from being too homesick on your special day: This last one really tugs at the heartstrings:
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Here is the last time someone used the word "Tittayz":
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I sea from You're profiel that you like to raed mountainering books. That's special. Keep it up.
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Well the bells are easy 5th. Nice views and fun easy climbing on so-so rock. Be prepared for hordes of tourists. If you are sporto, Rifle is supposed to be the shizzle. There is someplace called RMNP that may have some climbing. You should check it out. My sister lives in Aspen. Tell her I said hi.
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Holy shit! Archenemy is a chick???
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I seem to recall a couple hotshots passing me and Dave on Infinite Bliss. But seriously, I don't think my post was pompous at all. It's a fact if you go slow on a popular route, you are going to piss people off and that isn't fun for anyone and should be avoided. I have never held up a faster party. One time on Diedre we had some dumbshit ask to pass me when there were parties at every belay station and I was right behind another party. I just laughed at the guy; his partner looked embarrased. edited Oh and to add to the pomposity, Who ever said OS was a testpiece? It easy for "alpine" 5.9.
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I can't believe I'm posting on this thread. Anyway. Hey gumbies, look, yes you have "just as much right" as anyone else to be on any route and you can aid the shit out of it and piss everyone off if you want. You certainly have that right. Just don't be surprised when people get pissed off at you. I don't believe in RULES in climbing, but I do believe in etiquette and I think it was rude of you to take 17 hours or whatever to climb one of the most popular routes in WA on a busy weekend. Go climb some single pitch 5.8/9 stuff in the icicle and some two pitch climbs like Givlers Crack and get the multipitch shit dialed before you step up to SCW. edit: Midway and Saber on CR are other good options for easy multipitch. You'll cause and recieve a lot less grief that way, you'll keep yourself safer, the world will be a better place, the ozone layer will heal up, and endangered Laotian snaffles will find room to thrive in this crowded, polluted world. Everything will be great. And Selkirk, orbit and champagne are certainly not "dirty pieces of shit". Apparently you don't know shit. Alpinfox out.
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Hey! What is with you dumbshits thinking you need a $4000 carbon fiber bike with fancy "I'm a racer" handlebars to commute to work? You aren't in the Tour de France on the Burke Gilman you pretentious fuck! Oh, you are sponsored by Raliegh or USPS or whatever? Yeah right. You are mediocrity personified - quit acting like you are some world class athlete. Jumpin' jeebus you people make me sick and even with your 14-color spandex unisuit, you can't keep up with me in my levis. Pathetic. Thank you for allow rusty, squeaky, $8, thrift store, girl's bike rider to pass your overbranded ass and post on pedestrian website. ON YOUR LEFT!!!
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Vasectomized South Carolinian?
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Post Office Tavern. Saturday night. Squid is going to be performing, "You make me feel! You make me feel like a natural cephalopod."
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hey Hey HEY!!! My name is Alpinfox! I'll probably be in L-town this weekend Fern; you up for some karaoke!?!?!? w00t!
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"When On Mountain, No Girlfriend Thinking. Must Focus Only Mountain." -Da Ngima
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[TR] Attempt on Cutthroat- East Couloir 4/20/2005
Alpinfox replied to AlpinistAndrew's topic in North Cascades
Dave, Micah, and I left the car at ~3am on Saturday morning to answer this question for ourselves. The answer is "no". The crux pitch (2nd pitch) has no ice, but plenty of running water. The first pitch required some difficult (for me) mixed climbing, but had some spots of good ice and nice neve. Dave tore off a big chunk of some of the best stuff on the first pitch and tried to kill Micah and me with it. We did some cool "extreme snowshoeing" on the way out. BTW: There are some of the most beautiful boulders I've seen anywhere in Washington located in the basin below the east face of Cutthroat. Start scrubbin'! -
That depends. How do you plan to use the windshirt? -------------------------------------------------------------------- p.s. The route is pretty obvious and straightforward. If you don't own it already, buy "selected climbs in the Cascades - Nelson/Potterfeld" for a good description. Get an early start as you have lots of crevasses and snow bridges to negotiate on the Coleman. Try not to fall in any of them. There is very little technical climbing on the NR (maybe 1.5 pitches) so make sure you get to lead the "first" pitch. "Hey bro, I'll take this one and you can get the next one, OK?" Skis would be a good thing to take to your high camp - maybe even up the route if you're feelin' spunky. The NR can easily be done in a day from the trailhead, but camping up there is nice. No need to go very high - heliotrope ridge is fine. Two tools, a picket or two, and a handful of screws should lead you to glory. It's fun poppin' over the top and seeing the hordes that just swarmed up the CD/EG routes staring at you thinkin', "Where did those guys come from?" If you want a quieter -more wildernessesque- experience, try to climb the route mid-week. Enjoy and be sure to post a Trip Report here when you get back.
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Thanks Iain! Anybody want to guess how many "established" routes there are at SR?
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Hey, A friend of mine is workin' on a book and has a few general questions about Smiffay: 1) Approx how many established routes are there at Smith now? 2) What are those fast, small birds that swoop around the cliffs. They are all over the place at Leavenworth too. I think they are "swifts", but I'm not sure. And there is probably a more proper name like horny-toed, yellow-backed, sap-suckin' swift or something like that. I eagerly await your answers oh wise ones.
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There are some great big boulders precariously balanced on the PCT at the Kendall Katwalk. They are just PERFECT for trundling. GO GET 'EM!!!
