Gary_Yngve

I disagree on MOVE, but I'll probably move anyway within the next year. I recognize that I can't expect perfect peace and quiet living in the University District, but I think the noise and violence that has become all to frequent doesn't belong at all. Clearly the bar is making a fortune from selling booze, and it doesn't give a damn about the neighborhood going to hell. Things like obscure laws/ordinances, ways to take them to court, etc., are just what I'm looking for. Although I'd really love to have a water cannon mounted on the roof...

I live across the street from Tommy's Nightclub in the U-District, and for the third time in the past year I believe, there were shots fired when over a hundred drunken thugs emptied out of the place Sunday night. The same clientele is also responsible for what my roommate believes was an attempted rape, countless fistfights, and regular loitering and noise-making in the wee hours of the morning. What can I legally do? My opinion is that if their clientele are that out of control after they close for the night, and they are unwilling are unable to reduce the noise and violence, then they should be shut down. (For that matter, I don't think it's any local U-District residents who are attending.) We've called the police, we've talked with the apartment manager, we've posted notes in the elevator to get more residents to call in and complain, we've talked with Tommy's, etc. I spent half of yesterday writing letters to City Council and TheDaily. What to do next? I'm still trying to find a way to let UW parents hear about it. Civil lawsuit?

Woah, that's some crazy focus on Hotel Supramonte... super-narrow depth of field... but the math's not working out for how wide the aperture would have to be given the distance from the subject. Postprocess?

Yeah, I'd suspect the last pitch may be snow on slab? And you'd need boots for the walkoff? Much nicer for cragging when the snow's gone.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/304091/page/0/fpart/1 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/520915/page/0/fpart/1 SpecialEd flaming the pebble-wrestling pics in the original thread, with Distel getting all defensive, was classic.

Assuming the bill passes, it would be interesting to look back after 5-10 years and ask if there were any differences in number of rescues, mortality, manhours, "cost," etc.

is panorama stitching allowed?

It could be Fred Beavon too.

bummed that i missed it (had a friend's 30th bday to attend) i'll try to make it for the 420 gig

sweet! there's some really great pictures entered so far!

The Mountaineers still teach belaying by having students practice on drop towers with factor-1 falls of 100-lb weights, including with eyes closed. This is a far cry from the belay check at a gym where someone is "taught" by their buddies a few minutes before.

Is it possible to become a billionaire without being a bastard and fucking people over? Or is being a billionaire more a question of entrepreneurship, risk, and irrational drive? Are these traits more likely for males to have? Genetic or cultural or both? Certainly there are fewer women who are tenured science professors or are alpinists. The former category is a hot topic of study and debate. The debate of the latter seems to be are they hot? Family/kids puts a higher burden on women than men in the workforce, both in societal expectations and the whole pregnancy thing. There's also years of prior male domination and sexism that still needs breaking through. What could be done to promote women billionaires? Many universities are actively trying to attract and keep more women in the sciences. But universities are far more socialistic than the capitalism that creates billionaires.

I remember my partner, who could TR 5.10 face no problem, couldn't do the traverse, and I had to haul her up on a 5:1 pulley.

Here's my interpretation of what CBS is saying. The Mounties and FoTH teach that if you are tied in and using a belay device, your brakehand should be on the same side as the anchor to keep things in line. When belaying a climber at the base of the cliff, it's as if the ground is a virtual anchor, so the rope should run down toward the ground.

yay for word of the day! sycophant is a good word that i had forgotten about!

from Saturday on AlaskaAir:

If Kevbone is talking about Burgner-Stanley, a #5 friend is useful in several places on the route.

you don't need to tell me how an altimeter works, big boy. on a large glacier or snowfield, map and compass will put your position on a line, and an altimeter will pinpoint it. i don't think anyone prefers an altimeter to map/compass for serious navigation. an altimeter is great for telling how far you have gone on a hike from X elevation to Y elevation. slopes/aspects of hills are relatively inaccurate, due to local topography and measurement error. they can help a lot with the "big picture." i've never needed to take a bearing off a peak to figure out where i am -- any time i've been lost and wishing i could take a bearing, it's been dark or whiteout or both.

yeah, i think it's fair to say that an outdoorsy person probably wouldn't work right with a non-outdoorsy person. there's a lot of different things that can be argued either way... like a climbing couple will get into arguments when one wants to go climbing with someone else and not the partner, because "you don't love me" or "i'm not strong enough for you." or the case with you and the kayaker... the followup question would be how many times did you go kayaking? but there might also be a difference in levels of passion -- amatuer vs pro -- that could cause conflict. in all situations, it could also be argued that any conflict is just a manifestation of an underlying problem. my personal opinion is i'd rather be with someone who is an expert at something else, who could teach me something else, rather than being overlapping completely.

I disagree. I think it works out just fine for your partner to have a similar hobby/passion (biking, kayaking, skiing, etc.) that requires weekend trips, training, etc.

No, in whiteout, that's where a compass plus a map plus an altimeter can usually tell you exactly where you are. I don't understand what point you're trying to make about accuracy of an altimeter.

Here's Dru's secret to winning:

do you mean consolatory, conciliatory, both, or neither?

Trip: Snoqualmie Mtn - Pt. 4980 Date: 2/25/2007 Trip Report:

What course? What branch? What topics? I'm on the Seattle Basic Climbing Course lecture committee, and we're trying to make things taught conceptually, not by rigid steps, etc.