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Gary_Yngve

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Everything posted by Gary_Yngve

  1. Bush also works.
  2. wimpel
  3. rhesus
  4. What did yall think of the windpacked snow up top? I was getting high quality shears 2" down and 18" down, originally moderate difficulty at High Pass, but then hard difficulty on the glacier.
  5. We were the Mountie party of 6 (I would not call that huge) who broke trail for everyone else (11 others, who were private). And no, we weren't the ones carrying the wands.
  6. Daryl, please delete some of your PMs. You're over the limit and can't receive any more.
  7. RuMR, I don't think the aiders would have cared if there were an intermediate anchor. You'll see aiders on the first pitch of DHLA, to access Town Crier. That's just as annoying, if not more. High On Rock is right... share the rock. -If you're a large group TRing, and someone wants to lead through, let them go. -If you're going to go aiding, try to do it on something that's not a popular free route. -Everyone -- focus on awareness, commmunication, and respect. I think those will go a long way to resolving problems.
  8. If they're TRing, talk nicely and politely to them and pass them. You'd probably only be slowing them down by ten minutes at the most.
  9. Is that the .10a handcrack at X32?
  10. How so with the reverso? Depending on whether you rig it for high friction or low friction?
  11. In this case: The first person places gear on rappel. The second downclimbs, relying on the first's intermediate pro to catch the equivalent of a lead fall. An alternative could have one climber lower the other, but there may have been unable to communicate on when to stop to place pro / build anchors.
  12. What time of day did the large slide occur? As far as I am aware, there were no injuries resulting in a request for SAR personnel. I don't know who was leading the groups in question or the trip as a whole, and I'm not going to second-guess anyone without hearing the full story, but I am sure that this "close call" will be investigated and taken seriously. Mountaineers avalanche training is a work in progress. Right now, all Intermediate Climbing students, Winter/Advanced Scramble students, and Backcountry Ski students need to take an Avy Level I to graduate. The Mountaineers offer an Avy L1, with instructors from its own ranks. These instructors have been through additional outside training by the Crystal Mountain staff. At some point, we'd like all leaders to have an Avy L1, but there's the problem of grandfathering in folks / giving a grace period so we don't lose leaders. All basic students receive about an hour's worth of lecture and videos and are told to be assertive and ask questions / raise concerns if something seems amiss.
  13. It would be cool to have a bunch of folks showing slides. For planning purposes, please PM me with what you'd like to show, how much time, and any constraints (e.g. need to be home early).
  14. The MM5 models can help you look at specific cloud layers. http://www.atmos.washington.edu/mm5rt/
  15. everyone just needs to ignore him
  16. I don't think Eric knew what he was getting into when the Daily reporter came looking for a model. But I'm saving those pics for the day that Eric gets married or runs for president.
  17. A few years ago, Eric had a full-page spread of him doing pullups, pushups, weights, etc., TOPLESS. I still have the Daily article sitting around...
  18. My condolences to the friends and family of the deceased.
  19. How the hell is it that a speeding ticket with a $20-$30 base fine (IRLJ 6.2) ends up being like $300? I read the RCW 46, and 70% + 50% = 120% statutatory assessments (3.62.090), but that still doesn't add up. Furthermore, 46.63.110(2) implies it can't be more than $250.
  20. Is it possible your backpack or slings were restricting circulation in your arms? Or you were ice climbing, so your arms were mostly above your heart? Panic attack? Confounding factors, such as an infection/fever?
  21. what are you going to use it for? hard tail?
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