The problem I've had with the clove hitch is underestimating the distance to the next stance when making a free move and then getting about 7/8th of the way there when the rope comes tight.
I was just thinking that the Prussik would eliminate the biner and the gri gri. The biner seems to be subject to a possible cross load situation with the gri gri method.
Hey Chris. I'm working otherwise I'd be interested. I have a couple of weeks off in Feb and was planning to go to Joshua Tree, but If you can get free and would want to go ice-climbing during that time, send me a pm.
I think the best way to find out would be to go out to the garage and tie a couple of equal sized ropes together as well as several of dissimilar diameters and test them to see just how far from ideal you can go before the knot rolls or slips. Static rope might have different results.
Some routes are classics and some aren't. C'mon. As the route sits, its all natural. If you put a bolt there, were there really isn't one now, (what is there now is a piece of history as it seems that nobody would trust it anymore) you'd be changing the route. The route would then have a useable bolt on it... that would suck. I believe the intent of the original poster is good, but as they say the road to hell is paved whith good intentions.
I have midweek days off and would be up for some cragging. I climb at VW so.... I'm working today and tonight but how about tomorrow at Index or Little Si or Marymore.
Canned chicken noodle soup, Raviolies, clam chower, Stew, anything that is low in fiber and tastes good. Mabey canned milk on fruit loops or something. This stuff is heavy, but it's not that heavy if your only talking about one night or so.