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tomtom

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Everything posted by tomtom

  1. It's the camo under a BRIGHT YELLOW windshirt that look rather silly.
  2. Sha-na-na-na. Sha-na-na-na-na-na.
  3. The IQ of a mob is much lower than the average IQ of it's component members. Besides, they trash up the world with their printed propaganda.
  4. Hi TLG, It was a bit breezy, wasn't it? I was on a rope team of four that you passed in the dark at above 13k. The sunrise was beautiful. Nice job on the climb.
  5. Yes! I get my keys back. Thanks OMB! About a month ago, our Baker trip was cancelled because of a forecast for rain, so a friend and I headed up to Index to do a few aid pitches. We hiked up to the Upper Town Wall at a casual 8 am and looked up into the cloud. The rock was damp but it wasn't really raining. Hey, while we're here we can get in some climbing and bail at a reasonable hour. My friend was getting slammed at work and wasn't in the mood to epic so that sounded good to him. My partner heads up the aid start of Green Drag-On, then I do the crux pitch 2. We're socked in a cloud all day, so it's hard to tell what time it is. We're not moving very fast, but we're steadily moving upward. I hit the anchors of p4 and am pretty psyched. I got rained off this a few weeks before and I get summit fever, so I get my partner to agree to continue and set up a solo system to do p5 while he is cleaning p4. One C1 pitch and a scramble to the top, right? By now everything is really damp, and aiding up the last bits takes longer than it should. My partner comes up and he is pissed. It's getting late and he really wanted to rap from p4. Hey, lets scramble to the top and walk off, I say. Well there is no friction on the last pitch slabby bits, so he has to aid them, which takes forever. But we final top out at dusk. I quickly coil the rope and head for the trail. It's headlamp time when we hit the steep parts of that trail. Then I head back up at the junction to retreave my haul bag while my partner sorts gear. We hit the parking lot well after dark (and this is at the time of year when the days are the longest). And it starts raining. I check my pockets. Shit no keys. I check the haul bag. Nope, not there either. Luckily, my partner has AAA and a cell phone. There's no signal in the parking lot so we go stand on the tracks. AAA claims to have no wrecker coverage for Index, but they give us an unaffiliated company to try. We call. Answering machine. My partner has gone from being really pissed to what-the-fuck. At this point both of us are trying to figure out what friend of ours to call who will come haul our sorry asses out from Index late on a rainy Sunday night when the wrecker guy calls us back. He can come out. Cool. 45 minutes later he's in the parking lot and pops open my car in about 45 seconds. I search for the keys. Shit. Luckily we notice he has an AAA emblem plastered on the side of the truck. We're within the mileage limits, so he can tow us back to Seattle for free. At 2:30 am, our non-epic day ends back home. And the tow truck driver dings me for an extra $60, which I pay since I'm so happy to be home. And now my keys will be home too.
  6. tomtom

    Otter

    You Otter know.
  7. A modest
  8. The questions about Roberts's involvement with the society may come down to the meaning of the word "membership." As opposed to the meaning of the word "is" is.
  9. Barrabes used to carry them, but they don't any more.
  10. Not to mention gerkins.
  11. tomtom

    Lance!

    #7 is in the bag with another world class performance.
  12. tomtom

    You do the math.

    Subtraction: Addition's tricky friend.
  13. Is there a horse involved?
  14. thunk, thunk, kick, kick (repeat)
  15. Try brushing regularly.
  16. tomtom

    You do the math.

    Like he said, "You do the math." Apparently he can't.
  17. Of course they can only shoot someone who "might" be a suicide bomber. You can only prove someone "is" a suicide bomber after they have blown themselves and everyone else in the neighborhood up. It's pointless to shoot the little bits afterward.
  18. Not really. The hole is still there.
  19. A fraid not.
  20. tomtom

    You do the math.

    Looks like the nipple pitch. Edited by Peter_Puget (07/22/05 11:03 AM)
  21. Knee jerk reactions are bad for the joints.
  22. Are those pubic hairs on the left?
  23. Re: BD Stoppers--Bounce Test Data From - Tue Feb 16 14:36:39 1999 From: Chris Harmston <chrish@bdel.com> Newsgroups: rec.climbing I have measured forces up to 1000 lbf while bounce testing. I was using BD Etriers and bounced with about a six inch free fall bounce. It is easy to break small Stoppers if vigorously bounce testing. I weigh 190 lb. I have seen several small stoppers break in the field due to bounce testing and due to lead falls. Rated strengths are stated as 3 sigma failure loads. There is not a 20 to 30% buffer. They break close to what they are rated. 3 Sigma is three standard deviations below the average breaking strength. Average batch test results (n = 10) range from 600 to 700 lbf for #1 and #2 Stoppers. Batch standard deviations range from 6 lb to 50 lb. When combined into a years worth of data our rating computes to 450 lbf. The weakest sample I have seen in the last year failed at 535 lbf. The strongest failed at 808 lbf. 3 Sigma means that there is a 99.87% chance that the sample will be stronger than the rating. This also means that there is a 0.13% chance that a sample will fail below the rating. All this data is for brand new equipment that has never seen any fatigue due to placement, removal, falling on, bouncing on, etc. These small units get worn fairly quickly and can break eventually. Inspect your gear often. If you have to use these for lead protection then follow the advice of most of this group. Back them up. Sometimes the only option you have is a small nut. Better than nothing in many situations. Beware of the limitations of your gear though. Chris On Tue, 16 Feb 1999 mdimeo@brooktree.com wrote: >In article <36C8F69A.82BF48A1@boeing.com>, > Mike Garrison <mike.garrison@boeing.com> wrote: >> ratagonia@zdnetmail.com wrote: >> > Catalog say 2kN or 450 lbf for #1 & #2. Not hard to generate this kind of >> > load in a fall. >> That's an understatement. My body weight is close to 1 KN. >> Just jumping up and down I can generate about 2 KN. > >Ooh, a verifiable experiment. I like it. How about you try it out? >I've always wondered how much force a bounce test really generates. >Clip a biner to a bolt low to the ground. Slide the head down a #1 stopper. >Clip one end to the bolt biner. Clip an aider or sling to the other end. >Don safety glasses. Bounce. See if you can break it. I'm really curious. > >Off the top of my head, I'm betting biner flex, aider stretch, etc. will >prevent breakage. Time to find myself a low bolt, though my weight is only >around 0.73kN. >-m@ Chris Harmston (chrish@bdel.com). Quality Assurance Manager. Materials Engineer BS, ME. Black Diamond Equipment Ltd. 2084 East 3900 South, SLC, UT 84124 phone: 801-278-5552 Go Fish
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