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Putting Up Routes
For Bruce, who's 41 and describes himself as a "professional kid" (actually, he's a software developer who's worked for Boeing and Microsoft), route building is a three-step process. First, there's the crowbar. After he finds a suitable wall, Bruce rappels down it, stopping to remove any loose or unstable rocks that could tumble down the rock face while climbers are scaling the wall.
Then he scrubs the rock clean, removing dirt, moss and all debris so the rock is as grippy and sticky as it can be. Bruce employs everything from brooms to wire brushes the size of dinner plates to toothbrushes to even butter knives, to get at the smallest crevices.
"The goal is to get the rock as clean as possible," he says. "You should be able to lick the rock and not taste anything."
From there he's ready to set the actual route, climbing and reclimbing the route to determine the best places to set protection — bolts with hangers, which subsequent climbers will then clip their ropes into as they make their way up the wall. To drill holes for sinking bolts into the rock, Bruce uses a Roto Hammer, a high-powered machine usually used for drilling holes into concrete on construction sites.
"It used to take days to put up routes, but the drills have gotten so powerful that people can put up routes in minutes."