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tomtom

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Everything posted by tomtom

  1. j_b is cc.com.
  2. Hey Darin, You forget that aid climbers have zero status around here.
  3. How are people sizing the TC-Pro, as compared to say Mythos?
  4. In the same way that a steaming pile of poo is nicer than a flaming pile of poo.
  5. The better way is to just traverse the rabbit ears around to the left. Much cleaner and easier.
  6. You need to learn to aid better for CNR Stuart and NEB Slesse? O.K. Thanks for the honesty. Please keep it clean so you don't pin scar the cracks too much for us free climbers No, no, no. He needs to fix pins and bolts every three feet so the sprot climbers can get their burn.
  7. Brian and I climbed three pitches to the summit of Paisano Pinnacle on the NW Face this weekend at about 5.9. There were a couple bail slings down low but nothing higher. Is this an existing route? Where is Rampage, anyway? p2
  8. Guidebooks are aid.
  9. By fixing gear at the cruxes, the morons have destroyed the character of the route turning it into another Vantage style clip-up. Just bolt the damn thing and get it over with. Just like at Index.
  10. Sounds like new fixed gear. The move over the second roof on p5 can be the crux of the route, so if there is fixed gear there, it is new.
  11. Well duh. So four people for four days you would carry 16 canisters?
  12. I was climbing at Tieton recently and a local (certified) mountain guide was sharing ropes with us. He set up his top ropes through the chains and lowered off.
  13. Never trust your gear. If you don't fall, you don't have to.
  14. REI sells poles for kids: http://www.rei.com/product/784268 Another advantage is that they are cheap. Also try Fred Meyer.
  15. Pro Mountain carries the Stubai http://promountainsports.com/index.php/climbing/crampons/stubai-ultralight-universal-crampon.html They work pretty well, but are heavier al crampons. So the question is "are you looking for the lightest crampon for light use, or a heavier, more durable crampon?" The Stubai is the second at 590 gr.
  16. Thanks for posting and doing the work.
  17. Unannounced?!? There's a big banner at the top of their home page and they sent out email this morning with it in the subject line. Do you need it tattooed on your forehead?
  18. You must be new.
  19. A couple of these should get you going.
  20. A 64cm BD Venom works well as a glacier travel tool and also for climbing moderate alpine ice. http://www.supertopo.com/review/Black-Diamond-Venom
  21. I'm amazed that the guide services are able to bury attention to their accidents. If this had been a recreational club climb, the critics would be having a field day.
  22. I've climbed it in the past with one tool and a BD Raven Pro. Now I've got a pair of BD Venoms (50 cm and 64 cm) which I've used on the North Ridge in August and the Coleman Headwall in September.
  23. Another cc.com wankfest.
  24. The litany against fear is an incantation used by the Bene Gesserit throughout the series to focus their minds and calm themselves in times of peril.
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