b-rock

I'll add my support for John Long's Climbing Anchors. Can anyone recomend a text for learning aid beyond that of FOTH?

Produce Row Cafe 204 SE Oak St Portland, OR 97214-1018 A few blocks west of MLK, a few blocks north of the Morrison bridge. If that don't do it, let me know. See you there!

Right, now come drinkin'!

Calling all Portlanders. Daylight is waning. After work sessions at the dirty condom infested climbing mecca that is Rocky Butte are getting harder. Ice isn't in. No freshies to carve. Plastic sux. So let's start drinkin'!!! Where - Produce Row, SE Portland When - Wednesday October 23rd Time - 7:30ish Who - All y'all who decided 11worth was too long a drive last weekend.

Lemme tell you 'bout the Mud Shark... The origins of the Mud Shark are as follows: There's a motel in Seattle, Washington called the Edgewater Inn. The Edgewater Inn's built on a pier.. so that means that when you look out your window you don't see any dirt -- it's got a bay or something out in your backyard,,, And to make it even more interesting, in the lobby of the aforementioned motel there's a bait and tackle shop where the residents can go down whenever they want to, and rent a fishing pole and some preserved minnows and schlep back up to their rooms, open the window, stick their little pole outside and within a few minutes actually catch a fish of some sort that they can bring into their motel room and do whatever they want with it... you know what I mean? Now in this bay there's quite a variety of ah... fish! Not only do they have mud sharks up there, they got little octopusses that you can catch. And all these denizens of the deep can come in real handy... Let's say you were a travelling Rock and Roll band called the Vanilla Fudge. Let's say one night you checked into the Edgewater Inn Motel with a 8mm movie camera, enough money to rent a pole, and just to make it more interesting -- a succulent young lady (Mnaaaah!) with a taste for the bizarre... My mind drifts back to a meeting, a chance meeting in the Chicago O'Hare Airport where the members of the Vanilla Fudge told Don Preston about a home movie they made at the Edgewater Inn with a Mud Shark. I'm gonna tell you, this dance, the Mud Shark, is sweeping the ocean!...

Drew, it's TGs keg, I'm not coming to rope up but I'm helping to facilitate the trasfer. If I had a tapper I'd nip a few off the top, he he.

Argh! I'm going to have a keg of one of the best brews on earth in my possession for three hours this afternoon, and I don't have a tap. Argh!

quote: Originally posted by iain: no one cares if you climb Dwight Yoakum ridge do they? Dwight Yoakum might.

jkreuger, check PMs.

Hear ye hear ye, I'll not be making it to rope up. TG's offer is still good on the stout, and I can pick 'er up by the required time on Friday. Someone who is heading up from or through PDX would need to snag it from my house in NE Friday eve, otherwise no beer. Send me a PM to coordinate. C'mon people, free beer here.

We were up there around 11, on the lower ice fall just above and below the step. Mostly just practicing single ax stuff and exploring, but climbed a few top ropes too. Saw many heads poking out of slots where I thought no one was though...

T'was tooling around on the Elliot on Saturday. What you need to know?

Rob, thanks, was wondering that, they look about the same on the miles. Still working out some plans, but shooting to head up and come back early Sunday, if no one else steps up on the keg I can bring it, would need a tap. Rob, interested in carpool? I could drive, but most likely not climb Sunday.

Alright, 'bout how long is the drive from Seattle to Leavenworth? Not spent much time up that way. Thx.

Sketch, lets go to Rope Up !

Hmm, dunno if I can pick up a keg of TG and then just give it away again... I'll see if I can finagel some plans and make the hella drive. Otherwise I don't suppose it would be a problem, where's the dist?

I'm not sure I'll be making it , so if jk and tex are driving through that may be the best bet. Alas, that is some goodly motiviation to get my ass up there. TG - Your're on tap here everywhere and I'm loving it, any bottles in the works? Hmmmm, 10am and i'm already dreaming of beer....

Talk about LMAO, there was a large group at the col that day. We got to chatting, I asked if they were Mazamas. Yes, they were, how did I know? Name tags on the helmets, we all chuckle. Then Timmy busts out his helmet.... Oy.

[ 10-14-2002, 08:53 AM: Message edited by: b-rock ]

Thanks for your thoughts. Roped the fall I took would have been the same, just feeling lucky to have stopped myself where I did.

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: Slow down and be more carefull of what you grab on to and step on... glad your ok Yeah, that's the obvious, I was doing that. The rock wasn't loose when I knocked it, one of those larger blobs of rock embedded in tuft. Clearly the biggest lesson learned here is to be more careful and thoughtful, I am the one who pulled it (not the thousands before me). Still, seemingly solid holds can pop, and I'm interested in how to minimize the consequences...

Wondering anyone's thoughts on descending 3rd and 4th class quickly and safely. Last weekend I was decending the N. Ridge of Mt. Washington, kind of ledgy for a couple of rope lengths off the summit. Because of a large party ascending below us (Mazamas, group of 9 ) and the copious loose rock, we opted to down climb instead of rap. The route is not directly exposed and the steep sections were short (less than 3 meters), so we felt comfortable without a rope. Of course, I pull a monster hold (really, I was being careful, but pulled it nevertheless, I'm an ass). Fell on my butt, flipped over a ledge and stopped myself ok, minor cuts and sprains aside. Of course, the consequences of not stopping there would have been a bit ugly. Belaying seems too time consuming and overkill. Simul(down)climb on a short rope, with the occassional hip belay? The forces involved or the rope in a fall on this terrain would be pretty minor? Thanks.

Slung, compromises reach, but that's all I can figure. And can be clipped with just a biner instead of a draw. Wild Country hexes taper on the long axis for another placement option and come pre-slung with sewn Spectra. Don't have cams yet, love my hexes, hee hee