b-rock

As stated somewhere above, I think its good to make a distinction between the junior and senior guides. My experience with RMI is that the senior guides know their shit and seem to enjoy it. Junior guides, while certainly capable do tend to lack experience and training. I remember talking to one of the juniors about what it takes to get the job. I don't recall exactly, but I remember her telling me that they must come with first aid training (WFR?), but the rest of the training is provided. Most of the senior guides I spoke to seem to have gotten their training elsewhere, and certainly had the miles under their belt. So I think the earlier comment is right on - try to find out what types of guides are assigned to your climb. The two-day summit climbs for instance have a high percentage of juniors. Not sure about the other programs.

Here's a link to an article with an Avalung success story. http://www.couloirmag.com/articles/news/avalung_saves.asp I had never heard of a real burial where this thing worked, but apparently in this case it did. Hmmm.

Big Wave - I think anytime after the road past Ducthman Flats opens up. That will probably be around June. Of course then you'll have to contend with the hundreds of people going up the south side every weekend. Still a fun descent.

Got the cash? Go for it. Easy way to learn and top notch instruction. That is so long as you are talking about their five or six day programs. Two day summit climb is a completely different story. Just not the most economical way to learn...

I have a lowe alpine shell made of the triple point ceramic fabric. Not very breathable but so far has held up well in wet weather. I got it cheap (about $150?) a couple of years ago. Mostly I use it for lift serve skiing. Not a high performance shell, but may do the job for ya.

quote: Originally posted by Richard Pumpington:[QB] I'm not talkinglike I'm better than anyone else, just wondering whynobody tries anything else.[QB] Really? Because that's kind of how your post sounds. My point is there are many people at many levels on CC and so these are routes that get talked about. Tough ones get talked about too. Hey, great job on Jefferson. Broken Top too. Just trying to be a DICK.

Hey Dick Pump - I saw your reply to the Broken Top post, are you always so fucking well spoken? All hail before the mighy DICK. Well, Dick, not speaking for anyone else on the site, but I topped out for the first time on Hood last weekend along with about 50 other people that day. It was fucking incredible. And well, while strong, smart, and capable, I do admit to lacking a lot of mountainerring experience. So I'm here on CC to learn. And I was up on Hood to learn. Shit, maybe next time with a bit more learnin' I'll make it up some other route that's more of a challenge, more of a 'wilderness' experience. Hell, it's what I've been looking for and doing on long backpacking trips for quite some time. Maybe, maybe with some pratice I can be more of a DICK that you.

quote: Originally posted by vegetablebelay: It's not quantity, it's quality and you're still wayyyyy behind no really, just happy to get in on the muir thread...

dude, so this is where y'all get your post count on... and jesus, i didn't think this thread was still alive. wow.

Billy - Did you access via Dutchman Flats? Thnx.

Summited 3/2. Similar conditions but left the lot later at 6am so snow a bit softer. No 'scround. Next snow (like now) will bring super high avy danger over the top of very well developed surface hoar.

Ok, some clarification on my thoughts. The Mountain Shop (on NE Broadway) is alright for BC ski. Some good gear and good people. Not bad on sale. DH skis, clothing, forgetaboutit, that's where they make their dough of the rich NE pricks. I have found some of the people there are helpful, but mostly condescending and/or fat. This is the closest gear store to my house, so I do still frequent them. Whatever.

I'll put in seconds on ClimbMax and Next Adventure for their deals. ClimbMax is currently having a 15% off sale. Fun little store. Next Adventure has some decent used gear every now and then, the staff is great. OMC (Oregon Mountain Community) is a good shop but pricey. Mountain Shop on NE Broadway blows chunks.

[ 03-04-2002: Message edited by: b-rock ]

My 2 cents, these things rock, relatively speaking. Not quite randonee but a great getup to getup there if you have the DH setup. Plus a DH setup is way more fun for the descent... A bargain considering the MSR $180.

I don't get the freshie cam...

I carry rocks in my pack. It makes me stronger.

For all you PDXers, only time the prices are semi-reasonable: The Pajama Party is Here!!!!!! We invite you to the 26th Annual Pajama Party. Friday, February 22 from 8 pm to midnight...,just like last year you can buy or put on hold the items starting this monday, February 18...30% off everything in the store, limited to stock on hand, no other discounts apply including rental credits (sorry, they can't be used for the sale) You have to wear your pj's on friday night to pick-up your stuff....no exceptions!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If you don't pick up your stuff, you don't get the discount....please come on down, join the rest of the town and don't forget your pj's....

Yes, who cares. But what about 21:12 21/12 2112?

d-kemp word! Yes, I think that many (not all...) employers are happy to make such arrangements - time off at the expense of salary or other benefits.

I've worked out a 4x10 schedule that leaves each Friday off for min-weekend trips. Also have on a couple of occassions taken a month off, unpaid. I guess I'm pretty lucky that my employer just wants me around and is willing to put up with that stuff. I would like to work something out that was more defined - my paid vacation + say, three weeks a year off, unpaid, with plenty of notice beforehand. Also, they seem to be more willing to let me go for a consolidated chunk of time rather than a handful of days here and there. Now if only teaching paid well enough...

Ok, there has too be someone out there who bought these things, hated them, bought a randonee setup and now needs to get rid of them. Beuller?

dude. roll 'em or use glass. screens taste like ass.

yes, thanks, i think that all answers my question. not looking at anything in particular, just thinking about the logistics. werd.

ok, dumb question, please be nice to a non-rock climber. i assume a 'pitch' refers to one rope length, say 60m. to rappell down that same pitch, would one not need two ropes? thanks y'all.