G-spotter

No one needs to carry that much gear unless they are aid climbing superhard walls and then they can tow it up the tag line. Cut your rack in half, climb harder. That simple.

The best tape is the one having the most fun aka Technique

Beckey's probably pinched Becky's ass.

That this graphic approximates what's going on up there right now closely enough that you have refer to calendar summer is hilarious. Your graphic shows hints of sun. LIE. FALSE.

*FACT: calendar summer doesn't start until June 20. What are you - anti-science or something?

Ueli Steck never had the Ben Folds Five name an album after him.

We get some nice sunny days in June. Every once in a while.

New Select guide out June 15 will be all you need. The 99 guide is sooooo out of date.

I combined your advice and use bolts spraypainted orange. Makes them easy to find.

THE BUMS LOST, LEBOWSKI. THE BUMS LOST. THE BUMS WILL ALWAYS LOSE.

Will you build a trail of flagging to the best place to have a NCNP-ranger friendly devils club BBQ bonfire?

I just wonder if you could even find the rock under the RECORD FUCKING SNOWPACK? I mean somebody skiied from the summit of Nak to the highway last week and there was still 3m of snow... Across the way on Needle: late May 2012

What line did you ski on Talchako? South face?

the only flags i support are the black and red

Mr Buckaroo, you are fucking nuts. take a kayak.

One man's R rating is another's no big deal.

http://mountainproject.com/v/beckey-routespeedway/106516455

US cops kill innocent black Americans every day, whitey. Why don't you cry about that?

The only changes possible are from olyclimber to porter and back. Otherwise just register a new avatar.

If the crux is protected, it doesn't feel runout even if otherwise there's little pro. But when there is a large distance from the crux to pro, then it feels runout.

The last 5 years have definitely* seen a change in snowpack accumulation locally, with less snow in early winter (up to January) and more snow late in winter through to May. * verified from automated snowpack pillows, but not long enough of a trend to be statistically significant yet.

It's worthy of repeats, albeit conditions dependant. Getting across the schrund can be near-impossible later in the year, and the approach in winter (I can attest from previous attempts) is a real drag except with perfect conditions. Aside from that, just about any route from Centre Creek is good. The east and NE ridges have reputations as pure rock climbs but they hold snow quite late in the year and are in mountaineering climb shape much more than in rock climb shape. I don't think the east ridge has had a winter ascent yet - it's been tried once or twice, even by a soloist with a bunch of fixed ropes - but the NE ridge had a FWA back in the late 70s? iirc and is a pretty compelling line at any time of year. This is probably the easiest or second-easiest route to the summit of Rexford from Centre Creek. The north-south peak gully reportedly only hits 55 degrees so it may be easier; but, it is also a longer approach and more circuitous route from top of gully up the south face to the peak, so maybe more difficult overall.

Trip: Mt Rexford - FA - North Couloir Date: 5/27/2012 Trip Report: Shaun Neufeld, Maxim de Jong, and I climbed this route on Sunday. We crossed Centre Creek below the route at 7 AM, summitted at 2 PM and were back at Shaun's truck in Centre Creek by 5:45 PM. Conditions were great except for some icefall due to the warm day and occasional small wet slush avalanches off the sunny aspects of Nesakwatch Spire. The route forks left about 100m up the Priest-Coupe Couloir leading to the Rex-S Nesak col and climbs to high on the NE Ridge of Rexford, topping out about 50m from the summit. Climbing consisted of snow to 65 degrees. We used a small rock rack to protect the roped pitches, mostly due to sporadic icefall. This was my 4th? and Shaun's second try attempt on the route, and Maxim's first. He was our good luck charm, I guess. We descended the normal west ridge route, making two rappels: one 15m one off the summit to the first notch and one 60m one off the false summit to the west side ledges. Nearing the schrund at the bottom of the Priest-Coupe Crossing the schrund The 3rd belay The line as seen from John Scurlock's plane in Jan 2008. Gear Notes: Few nuts, four cams 0.5 Friend to 2 Camalot sized, couple slings, a couple Tricams. Picket and a few screws taken but not used. Approach Notes: Two cars or long logging road walk. Even with a quad we had to hike the last 4km of the Centre Creek road due to snow-broken alders. Centre Creek gate is locked as of May 24 but you can get the key from the hatchery as per usual.

Your moms are blowin' up my pager. This shit's gettin' major.

I went to such an elitist high school that there were no morons. Sorry yours was second rate!