"Ok there's a hold by your left knee... you can't see it... little higher... little bit to the left. That's it! That hold is shitty. Whatever you do, don't use it."
I use my old Pulsar. Of course i have like 6 old picks for it so blunting one is no big deal. I just keep wearing it down to see how short it will get.
AMO Wall has 3-pitch bolted slab routes 5.7-5.10 and you are unlikely to see anyone there. It's between Shannon Falls and the Chief and you can find a photo topo at the Quickdraw Publications website.
It's nice to pick up a couple of climbs next to each other. Also on the Sheriff's Badge Squaw aka Slhany is Jungle Warfare. It's rated 10a, but that's for a short (akward) section of off-width. Otherwise the route is in the .7 - .9 range.
Tape is aid and chicks dig scars.
I've seen Washington climbers walking up the trail to Slesse NEB and to Diedre with full on to-the-elbow tape jobs. Neither route has an abundance of hand or fist jamming or abrasive rock. It's just like having a big neon GUMBY sign flashing over your head.