G-spotter

Yarrr. the pirate forum done pillaged and sailed away with the cafe sensitivo

Deeper, wider couloirs like those on the north face of Joffre are often better in late summer when the snow is compacted down to ice. Central Couloir on Joffre can be great in late July. North Couloir of Slesse never melts down to ice. It just vanishes and leaves broken rock behind. You are a couple months too late for that one.

If you want to climb a rock route in June it's best to pick something low elevation or south facing, and/or on the dry side of the range. Slesse NEB is none of these three. Whereas if you went in to the Pasayten for instance, Cathedral SEB is probably prime right now.

Early season approach to NEB through a broken-up pocket glacier is what killed Sertac Olgun http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/701172 An ice block toppled over and crushed him. They had to wait two months before it was safe enough to retrieve the body.

Roofies?

It's chewing its way into that dolphin like Luke with a tauntaun.

sounds like quite the cockfight

Is that the nickname you give to the one "cougar" you bagged? Watch your mouth boy, that's your momma you talkin' bout.

You should take a forced-perspective shot like with hogzilla

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rabbit_starvation

Have you ever thought about pursuing a different sport? maybe lawn bowling or parcheesi?

Some famous hydrologist died of plague in the 90s. Got in AZ but developed symptoms at home in Boston. Docs there had no idea what it was. Docs in Albequerque or Phoenix would have been familar with symptoms. #eastcoastproblems

Arizona has had the Black Death since forever man.

No it's not. You can't see the pocket glacier at all in this photo. This is a snow patch o the north flank of the NE butt, and the pocket glacier is hidden behind the NE ridge out of sight, and also way out of photo to the left.

It's really, really snowy in there this year. http://bcrfc.env.gov.bc.ca/data/asp/realtime/asp_pages/asp_1d17p.html Be prepared for lots of snowy mixed until mid-July at the earliest. Nearby snow pillows are recording near-record depths. The snow pillow data shows us that as of today, snow water equivalent (roughly the depth of the snowpack, although it is weight rather than depth actually) is four times average values for this time of year.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4714

I almost get the sense you guys are trying to insult me.

The analysis of the failure was pretty extensive and that's the answer they came up with. I mean all three pieces were still on the cord attached to the guy who was belaying. I believe they actually found where they fell from and set up a similar anchor in the scarred slots the gear pulled out of and tested it with a weight to be sure

There was a double fatality at Tahquitz in ANAM a couple years ago that fingered the cordelette as the culprit. Three bad pieces loaded sequentially rather than equally by the cord, pop pop pop, and two climbers fell hundreds of feet as a result. ::

Cordelettes DO NOT work, out of date John Long books aside. Stop using them. http://willgadd.com/?p=271

This pitch was 30m of mostly 5.11 fingers so after running out of our double set of yellow and orange TCUs and all the nuts that fit it was nice to have the red and pink TriCams to place when the crux showed up. An impressive onsight by Shaun.

I have more pagetops than anyone Even iaiaiaian

That's like saying you like being slow and fat. No one really likes being slow and fat, even if they claim they do. Take less gear, climb faster. Speed is safety.

The best climber wouldn't do your mom now. Too crowded, and that's not what alpinism is about.

How much gear did Kurtyka take for Gash4? 2500m alpine face? Three screws, two nuts, two pitons.