G-spotter

You should never need to buy shrooms, they are easy to find. My grandma used to have a bunch growing in her yard, behind the garage You'd hear a noise around 2 AM, turn on the porch light and see three or four black-clad stoners on the lawn trying to pick a baggie full.

Did it look dry?

The Zorro has crumbly crap low down that seems to get slightly better with height, at about the height of our p.10. Personally though I did not think rock qualty was the deterrent for that face as much as the access to the base - I know when Wayne and Mikey turned around last year Wayne blamed the heinous approach. The SW buttress climbing basically follows gullies and chimneys as much as possible. Most of the vertical rock has no cracks whatsoever, the faces are crumbly and the cracks that are there are rotten. The rock definitely seems better when you get out onto the south face... I tell you what's really impressive, though, is the NW buttress of the Southwest Peak. Ed Zenger is obviously a badass of the highest caliber to have climbed that in 69, it is steeper and scarier looking than the SW Butt on the north peak.

Trip: Hozomeen North Peak - SW Buttress Attempt Date: 6/29/2008 Trip Report: Last year I tried this route with Shaun and Dwayne - we got to the base, Shaun was too ill to climb, and we hiked out without doing more than the sit start. Jesse and I headed in for another attempt on Saturday night. We left the trailhead around quarter to 6 and got to a good bivi site around quarter to nine, with beautiful sunset. In the morning we got up at 5 and got to the base of the route by 7:30. We climbed about 15 pitches on the buttress, gradually traversing up and left to reach the left edge about 10 pitches up. We found the Culbert/Purdey crux cave and aid chimney, and I managed to find a free route bypass on the right wall. (This pitch has also been freed on the left side, during an attempt in the late 80s). A couple pitches above the cave, around p.15, we hit the second headwall and misread the route description, traversing right instead of left. We found ourselves out on the south face at around 4:30 and decided to try and descend the south face and get off the mountain rather than get back on route and bivi higher up (J had to be at work on Monday). We downclimbed and traversed the major scree ramp on the south face until it ended and then rappelled and downclimbed the easternmost of two gullies. Rap anchors were sometimes hard to find and slightly unnerving when found; we left five nuts and three pins. The last rappel was c.55m and freehanging most of the way but got us to talus below the face. I lost my headlamp in the bushes on the descent and when we got back to the bivi site around 10:30 at night, we elected to stay an extra night rather than finish the descent out to the car in the dark. On Monday we got up at 4AM and were back at the car by 7 and in Hope, making phone calls and eating greasy breakfast, by 8. Scurlock photo showing ascent line in red, and correct line above our high point in blue: Scurlock photo showing our descent route: A couple pics from the approach and climb: The rock is well-featured with lots of holds, some of which break. I took about a 7m fall with rope stretch while seconding a 5.8 pitch when a big handhold unexpectedly detached. Many lower-angled sections have talus and rubble but Jesse's twin ropes survived without major damage. The direct approach to the west face looks vile, but it seemed quite reasonable to climb the first 10 or so pitches of the bttress and then traverse left out onto the west face from the buttress, thus coming in above the chossy gullies low on the face. Likewise, there seemed to be quite a bit of good rock and some nice lines on the south face, interspersed with rubble. So far, I only know of three other climbs on this feature: two successful ascents (Culbert/Purdey FA, 1968, ref CAJ 1969 and McPherson/Suddaby repeat, 1997, ref BCM 1998) and one attempt by Kubik and Robertson, late 80s, that got to our high point, freeing the cave in the process (FFA of the cave) and then retreated down the ascent line after also losing the route & being unwilling to bivi. I am interested in hearing about any other tales from or ascents of this route? Gear Notes: Standard rack of nuts and cams to #3 Camalot, doubles only of small-med. nuts. Knife blades and soft iron LAs useful for rap anchors but not needed to protect route. Approach Notes: Drive to Ross Lake, hike 2/3 of way to Hozomeen Lake then cut sharp left and proceed uphill. Good bivi spots on left rib near waterfall in creek draining south face, 4 hours from cars and 300m elevation below south face. From bivi, traverse left into forest and up left through bluffs to toe of buttress.

Beckey guide says Grizzly Tower in the Needles near Early Winters has three routes, all 5.10 to 5.10+.

I have one and I like it better than my old Nozone.

Speedway is much easier but very, very runout (25-30m between protection placements) and the crux pitches are sustained at the grade. In many places the bolts are so far apart that you cannot see the next one and have to guess as to the line. The easier pitches are more like roped hiking than climbing because the angle is so low. But it is very fast to climb it, 2 hours up is reasonable.

First time I did it was with Don and we were pretty fast, I think 6 hrs round trip from car. Second time I did it in a party of 3 with Fern and Kellie and we took a more relaxed pace and it was more like 8. Plenty of people have had to bivi on top though! A time of 11 hours is not unexpected for parties new to alpine multipitch and route finding.

Gunks climbers don't need FOTH. They've got Khadeja and whatnot.

I heard that yo mama gives lessons in how to get on top of her.

It looks like one of those shots from the Alps or Fuji with a line of 100 climbers gunning it for the top! Alpine Style! Fast and Light! Take a Number Please! (and it's no coincidence that number means More Numb)

Using some deaths as an excuse to post links and boost your click throughs: not so cool.

Because you hold a short position! I didn't know RuMr was a day trader?

The most obvious line in Squamish.

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Are you's bein a racialist?

Back in, around 95 I guess, when cell phones were new'n'hot toys, I wandered up onto First Summit of the Chief to encounter this guy with one of those old massive 90s cellphones. (RING RING) hey Frank! How's it goin buddy? Workin hard eh? Big project? Hows the weather in Toronto today? Still raining eh? You think you're gonna be workin late tonight? deadline comin up? That's ruff Get that promotion yet? Ah too bad Frank well let me tell you where I am, i'm on top of a mountain In BC It's a beautiful sunny day I can see for miles And I'm not wearing a fucking suit So... have fun with that deadline buddy!

It's good that the military's secret programs are integrated. How much African gene pool does one have to have to be "ultra black?"

got them in a box of climbing gear i bought from a guy who quit climbing for jazz guitar

nope, old and trashed

what size are your feet? i have some old size 8's vectors here that are too small for me

That looks like about the same move as the crux of Stem Gem.